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68 LOOPING BACK Artist Esna Su tells Debika Ray about identity, migration and pleasing her mother

84 HIDE AND SEEK The ecological crisis and veganism’s rise are forcing us to rethink our love of leather, finds Yasmin Jones-Henry

98 BLEMISHED BEAUTIES Between fishing and farming, Kazunori Hamana finds time to fill his home with folk art and his own monumental pots. Kenji Hall pays a visit

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114 STAR CAST Photographer Catherine Hyland spent two years behind the scenes at east London’s art foundry to the stars. Natasha Levy takes a look, while Antony Gormley and Anish Kapoor chip in

148 PAST Cotton threads through all our histories. Here, we unpick some of those stories – spanning from India to the United States, Barbados to Brazil. Through works by the likes of Yinka Shonibare, Shiraz Bayjoo and Fanglu Lin, we explore how cotton has shaped the world as we know it. The curator of a new exhibition at the Crafts Council Gallery explores the colonial legacy of the material, while an anonymous millworker brings the sounds of an 1864 factory to life

170 PRESENT As the UK government’s ‘levelling up’ agenda fails to materialise, Patrick Grant, the founder of social enterprise Community Clothing, calls for a revival of skilled factory work across the nation. Designer-spinner Shradha Kochhar gathers seeds to give cotton a new life. Meanwhile, photographer Jimmi Ho spots it on every corner in his home town of Hong Kong

182 FUTURE Trend forecaster Lidewij Edelkoort calls for the fashion industry to get back to basics, by understanding where its materials come from. And we end on a note of optimism, meeting the growers, makers, recyclers and innovators envisioning a more sustainable future for the world’s favourite fibre

130 POLITICAL TIES As she fills Tate Modern’s Turbine Hall with textiles, artist Cecilia Vicuña speaks to Julia Bryan-Wilson about ecology, feminism and counting systems of the ancient Andes



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