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Contents Autumn/Winter 2022 PERSPECTIVES 13 28 14 UP FRONT Bernardine Evaristo’s creative awakening, craft holds strong in Ukraine, Bethany Williams confronts fashion’s failures, sculptor Julian Watts sees the wood for the trees, Heritage Crafts argues for remaking nationalism, automata-maker Theo Jansen leads the herd, and we ask how motherhood and making can fit together 44 ON REFLECTION Furniture restorer and TV talent Jay Blades on breathing life into old things 52 NEW TALENT Lulu Harrison turns the tide on glassmaking 60 REVIEWS Miniature mania, glass houses and going potty for pot 194 IN PRAISE OF… Chef and artist Laila Gohar lifts the veil on lace by the Wiener Werkstätte 16 CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: strandbeest by Theo Jansen; Freedom plate by Gunia project; Esna Su with Refugee I, 2016; Planets in my Head, Young Explorer, 2019, by Yinka Shonibare; Bottle Apron by Gohar World 194 10
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SU: DAVID VINTINER; SHONIBARE: COURTESY THE ARTIST AND GOODMAN GALLERY IN FOCUS 68 LOOPING BACK Artist Esna Su tells Debika Ray about identity, migration and pleasing her mother 84 HIDE AND SEEK The ecological crisis and veganism’s rise are forcing us to rethink our love of leather, finds Yasmin Jones-Henry 98 BLEMISHED BEAUTIES Between fishing and farming, Kazunori Hamana finds time to fill his home with folk art and his own monumental pots. Kenji Hall pays a visit 67 147 SPOTLIGHT: COTTON 68 114 STAR CAST Photographer Catherine Hyland spent two years behind the scenes at east London’s art foundry to the stars. Natasha Levy takes a look, while Antony Gormley and Anish Kapoor chip in 148 PAST Cotton threads through all our histories. Here, we unpick some of those stories – spanning from India to the United States, Barbados to Brazil. Through works by the likes of Yinka Shonibare, Shiraz Bayjoo and Fanglu Lin, we explore how cotton has shaped the world as we know it. The curator of a new exhibition at the Crafts Council Gallery explores the colonial legacy of the material, while an anonymous millworker brings the sounds of an 1864 factory to life 170 PRESENT As the UK government’s ‘levelling up’ agenda fails to materialise, Patrick Grant, the founder of social enterprise Community Clothing, calls for a revival of skilled factory work across the nation. Designer-spinner Shradha Kochhar gathers seeds to give cotton a new life. Meanwhile, photographer Jimmi Ho spots it on every corner in his home town of Hong Kong 182 FUTURE Trend forecaster Lidewij Edelkoort calls for the fashion industry to get back to basics, by understanding where its materials come from. And we end on a note of optimism, meeting the growers, makers, recyclers and innovators envisioning a more sustainable future for the world’s favourite fibre 130 POLITICAL TIES As she fills Tate Modern’s Turbine Hall with textiles, artist Cecilia Vicuña speaks to Julia Bryan-Wilson about ecology, feminism and counting systems of the ancient Andes 149 11

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Contents Autumn/Winter 2022

PERSPECTIVES

13

28

14 UP FRONT Bernardine Evaristo’s creative awakening, craft holds strong in Ukraine, Bethany Williams confronts fashion’s failures, sculptor Julian Watts sees the wood for the trees, Heritage Crafts argues for remaking nationalism, automata-maker Theo Jansen leads the herd, and we ask how motherhood and making can fit together

44 ON REFLECTION Furniture restorer and TV talent Jay Blades on breathing life into old things

52 NEW TALENT Lulu Harrison turns the tide on glassmaking

60 REVIEWS Miniature mania, glass houses and going potty for pot

194 IN PRAISE OF… Chef and artist Laila Gohar lifts the veil on lace by the Wiener Werkstätte

16

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: strandbeest by Theo Jansen; Freedom plate by Gunia project; Esna Su with Refugee I, 2016; Planets in my Head, Young Explorer, 2019, by Yinka Shonibare; Bottle Apron by Gohar World

194

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