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Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs Rome’s Eternal Heritage Cover: The Roman Arch at Milas. Photograph by Don McCullin On the Road Again Don McCullin and Barnaby Rogerson’s Roman finale: from deepest Phrygia to glorious Pamphylia · 60 Ancient Roaming Sir Don’s modern odyssey: a light-hearted guide to three epic journeys, by Barnaby Rogerson and Monica Fritz · 88 Art and Architecture ‘Asia has Claims upon New England’ Robert Ousterhout on 19th-century America’s obsession with the kings of Assyria · 30 The Poetry of Silence Istanbul distilled: Andrew Finkel on the cool photography of Annette Louise Solakoğlu · 114 Connoisseur Man of War and Peace JF Lewis’s pasha reclaimed, by Briony Llewellyn and Charles Newton · 5 Food for Mind and Soul Thomas Roueché on the message of the Istanbul Biennial · 8 Diplomatic Secrets Philip Mansel on the splendour of Ottoman briefcases · 10 Books Truth and Beauty Rupert Scott on the demise and legacy of the Ottoman Empire · 21 Meeting of Minds Caroline Finkel discovers a titan of 17th-century Ottoman letters · 25 Ottoman Manners An early Turkish costume book, by William Kynan-Wilson · 26 Wildlife Winged Victory Gernant Magnin on the return of the Gediz Delta’s magnificent birds · 38 Food and Wine Pressing the Flesh The piquant story of pastırma, by Berrin Torolsan · 134 New Wine from Old Grapes Cosima Stewart on a scholarly vintner in the caves of Cappadocia · 140 Feast from the East Andrew Finkel on Istanbul’s new addiction to far-flung flavours · 162 From Our Correspondents Private View Andrew Finkel on the mysteries that sparked his novel · 16 Jazz Ambassadors Tony Barrell joined the fun when the Nardis Jazz Club came to London · 154 The Magnificent Four John Shakespeare Dyson on the masterful Borusan Quartet · 156 Now and Then Thomas Roueché on challenging new art · 160 Postscript A Last Letter from Anatolia Nick Thorpe pays tribute to the late, great Roger Norman · 158

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