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from the editor ■ Welcome! I was str uck while reading the proofs this month that where and with whom we create can sometimes be as impor tant as the resulting ar twork – sometimes the journey can be the destination. From husband and wife, to other creative par tner ships, from single sewers to less tangible online groups, many are represented here. Mexican duo Gabriel and Fernanda, par tner s both in and out of the galler y, focus on their home and their role as hosts which has provided inspiration for their lovely warm textiles. Similar ly, the duo Lissy and Rudi are par tner s in ar t and life .Their Maori heritage and concept of home inspires them too, but with ver y different results – fantastic joyous neons, sunglasses required. Amanda McCavour works alone to produce hundreds of specimenstyle thread sculptures that painstakingly come together in the final exhibition, but loves to hear and meet people working in her block. Instagram has been instr umental in bringing stitcher s together as they create, and stitching communities have proliferated. For example,Vanessa Marr’s @domesticdusters is a place to share in the slogan-led bright yellow duster project. Her shout-out in par tner ship with the Profanity Embroider y Group was wicked fun. Then there are many respected groups for stitcher s, like Prism Textiles and The Embroiderers’ Guild, which create their own communities and suppor t networks.The Guild is currently offering vir tual stitch-alongs, as well as online courses and talks, and on page 53, tells how it collects and values the ar tworks of those stitcher s who have gone before. TV plays a role too. Some of us stitched along with Grayson’s Art Club , and now the ceramicist, and creator of tapestries, has been knighted. Inspired by the show, see the knitted Sandringham on page 54. Digital embroiderer David Morrish shares a sewing room in his home with his wife Alison, an upholsterer, and recently managed to get his brand of stitching on TV in BBC One’s Make it at Market. The couple have already collaborated on projects. PhD researcher Stewar t Kelly asks: why don’t men stitch together as women do? When he star ted out only Michael Brennand-Wood was a primar y mover but the situation is changing, and at the Fashion and Embroider y Show this March, We Sew Too is aiming for gender equality. Finally, we are delighted to catch up with The Great British Sewing Bee ’s Queen Bee herself, EsmeYoung. Watching old episodes of the show I am str uck by the number of male finalists, and the lovely group-spirit – not a prima donna in sight. Send us a snap via #HowILikeToStitch on Instagram @embroider y_mag and until next month, enjoy the issue! Claire Waring EDITOR Embroider y magazine 10 14 28 ON THE COVER: The Horizon, The Ocean, The Sky (2021-2022) by Amanda McCavour www.amandamccavour.com embroidery Embroidery is published six times a year in January, March, May, July, September and November by Embroiderers’ Guild Enterprises Ltd, a wholly owned subsidiary of The Embroiderers’ Guild. The magazine was first published in 1932 and is read today by textile professionals and enthusiasts around the world. The Embroiderers’ Guild is a registered charity (No. 234239), which organises an annual programme of events and awards. The Guild’s Museum Collection of embroidered items is held at Bucks County Museum. embroiderymagazine.co.uk EDITOR Claire Waring 07769 397790 embroideryeditorial@ warnersgroup.co.uk DESIGNER Melanie Smith embroidery.mag.design@gmail.com PUBLISHER The Embroiderers’ Guild Bucks County Museum Church St, Aylesbury HP20 2QP embroiderersguild.com SALES Media-Shed Limited, 1st Floor, West Wing, Beater House, Turkey Mill, Ashford Road, Maidstone, Kent, ME14 5PP 020 3137 8582 EMBROIDERY 4 March April 2023 SUBSCRIPTIONS DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTIONS pocketmags.com/embroidery-magazine Single digital issue £6.99 Annual digital subscription £34.99 PRINT SUBSCRIPTIONS mymagazinesub.co.uk/embroidery Six monthly Direct Debit £17.50 Annual Direct Debit £34.99 Credit/Debit card annual payments UK £37.99. EU/ROW £52.99 PRINT PLUS ARCHIVE SUBSCRIPTIONS https://bit.ly/embroiderypd Annual Direct Debit UK £49.99 Credit/Debit card annual payments UK £52.99. EU/ROW £67.99 For renewals, back issues, change of address,or single print copies please +44 (0)1778 392 468 embroidery@warnersgroup.co.uk DEADLINES ISSUE . . . . . EDITORIAL . . . ADS Jul/Aug . . . 24 Apr . . . . . . 1 June Sep/Oct. . . 19 June . . . . . 28 July Nov/Dec . . 21 Aug. . . . . . 25 Sep Embroidery magazine ISSN 1477-3724 is published by Embroiderers’ Guild Enterprises Ltd, a wholly owned subsidiary of The Embroiderers’ Guild. Registered office: Bucks County Museum, Church St, Aylesbury HP20 2QP. Printer & distributor: Warners Midlands, Manor Lane, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9PH. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Embroidery does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or images. The Editor reserves the right to edit all contributions. The views expressed in Embroidery are not necessarily those of the Editor or The Embroiderers’ Guild.
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16 36 34 front 07 EMBROIDERY LOVES Oliver Bliss: #SoftLads 08 NEWS Some stories to take note of 09 GUILD GRADUATES Exciting prospects 10 FRESH TALENT Willemien Downes-Wechgelaer’s brilliantly-coloured world 12 FRESH TALENT Mexican duo Celeste tell how they were inspired by the theme of ‘home’ 20 FIRST PERSON Rezia Wahid’s new woven work reflects her experiences of motherhood 22 A COMMON THREAD In our new ‘Meet the Group’ series we profile Prism Textiles PS... Take a one year subscription to Embroidery and we’ll deliver each copy to your door free of charge! 24 features 14 THE SEWING ROOM The Great British Sewing Bee’s Esme Young invites us behind the scenes to view her London studio, which she shares with other creatives 16 AN INDIGO SUMMER Ellie Evelyn Orrell’s evocative book is about the engrossing practice of Japanese indigo dyeing which, one summer, helped her family deal with grief 24 APRIL IN PARIS We transport you to the world of former haute couture embroiderer Rebecca Devaney as we journey through the haberdasheries and markets of Paris 28 HOUSE OF JOY Lissy and Rudi Robinson Cole are a Maori couple whose large-scale crochet artworks positively shout with joy and a freedom of expression 32 DAVID MORRISH’S TV TIMES Appearing on BBC One’s Make it at Market was a high-point for David Morrish but what was to follow would give him one of his biggest-ever lows 34 COVER: OUT OF THE BLUE Canadian artist Amanda McCavour’s artworks are full-scale and full-on and comprise hundreds of intricately worked sculptures in thread 40 IN GOOD HANDS Artist Stewart Kelly has been looking at stitch as a reflexive practice and for his PhD is quite literally watching himself sew 44 PICKING UP THE THREADS Lesley Woods reveals what came next when she inherited a box of threads from her mother 48 BLOOMING MARVELLOUS We are pleased to report that Sunbury Embroidery Gallery is all set for growth 51 ARIADNE’S THREAD A group of embroiderers has picked up needle and thread as a riposte to Russian agression in Ukraine 52 MY KINGDOM FOR A ROBE Historical costumier Ninya Mikhaila reveals her work on the film The Lost King, about Richard III 53 A TRIP DOWN MEMORY LANE Donations to the Embroiderers’ Guild collection c o n t e nt s 20 32 reviews 47 BOOKS Mixed Media Textile Art The Colours of Nature Embroidered Birds and their Habitats EXHIBITIONS 54 Grayson’s Art Club: The Exhibition III at the MAC, Birmingham 55 Veronica Ryan: Turner Prize-winner at Tate Liverpool 56 Motive/Motif at Ruthin Craft Centre 57 OUT AND ABOUT 58 WHAT’S ON m a r c h a p r i l 2 0 2 3 40 March April 2023 EMBROIDERY 5 5

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from the editor

■ Welcome! I was str uck while reading the proofs this month that where and with whom we create can sometimes be as impor tant as the resulting ar twork – sometimes the journey can be the destination. From husband and wife, to other creative par tner ships, from single sewers to less tangible online groups, many are represented here. Mexican duo Gabriel and Fernanda, par tner s both in and out of the galler y, focus on their home and their role as hosts which has provided inspiration for their lovely warm textiles. Similar ly, the duo Lissy and Rudi are par tner s in ar t and life .Their Maori heritage and concept of home inspires them too, but with ver y different results – fantastic joyous neons, sunglasses required. Amanda McCavour works alone to produce hundreds of specimenstyle thread sculptures that painstakingly come together in the final exhibition, but loves to hear and meet people working in her block. Instagram has been instr umental in bringing stitcher s together as they create, and stitching communities have proliferated. For example,Vanessa Marr’s @domesticdusters is a place to share in the slogan-led bright yellow duster project. Her shout-out in par tner ship with the Profanity Embroider y Group was wicked fun. Then there are many respected groups for stitcher s, like Prism Textiles and The Embroiderers’ Guild, which create their own communities and suppor t networks.The Guild is currently offering vir tual stitch-alongs, as well as online courses and talks, and on page 53, tells how it collects and values the ar tworks of those stitcher s who have gone before. TV plays a role too. Some of us stitched along with Grayson’s Art Club , and now the ceramicist, and creator of tapestries, has been knighted. Inspired by the show, see the knitted Sandringham on page 54. Digital embroiderer David Morrish shares a sewing room in his home with his wife Alison, an upholsterer, and recently managed to get his brand of stitching on TV in BBC One’s Make it at Market. The couple have already collaborated on projects. PhD researcher Stewar t Kelly asks: why don’t men stitch together as women do? When he star ted out only Michael Brennand-Wood was a primar y mover but the situation is changing, and at the Fashion and Embroider y Show this March, We Sew Too is aiming for gender equality. Finally, we are delighted to catch up with The Great British Sewing Bee ’s Queen Bee herself, EsmeYoung. Watching old episodes of the show I am str uck by the number of male finalists, and the lovely group-spirit – not a prima donna in sight. Send us a snap via #HowILikeToStitch on Instagram @embroider y_mag and until next month, enjoy the issue!

Claire Waring

EDITOR Embroider y magazine

10

14

28

ON THE COVER: The Horizon, The Ocean, The Sky (2021-2022) by Amanda McCavour www.amandamccavour.com embroidery

Embroidery is published six times a year in January, March, May, July, September and November by Embroiderers’ Guild Enterprises Ltd, a wholly owned subsidiary of The Embroiderers’ Guild. The magazine was first published in 1932 and is read today by textile professionals and enthusiasts around the world. The Embroiderers’ Guild is a registered charity (No. 234239), which organises an annual programme of events and awards. The Guild’s Museum Collection of embroidered items is held at Bucks County Museum.

embroiderymagazine.co.uk

EDITOR Claire Waring 07769 397790 embroideryeditorial@ warnersgroup.co.uk DESIGNER Melanie Smith embroidery.mag.design@gmail.com PUBLISHER The Embroiderers’ Guild Bucks County Museum Church St, Aylesbury HP20 2QP embroiderersguild.com SALES Media-Shed Limited, 1st Floor, West Wing, Beater House, Turkey Mill, Ashford Road, Maidstone, Kent, ME14 5PP 020 3137 8582

EMBROIDERY 4

March April 2023

SUBSCRIPTIONS DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTIONS pocketmags.com/embroidery-magazine Single digital issue £6.99 Annual digital subscription £34.99 PRINT SUBSCRIPTIONS mymagazinesub.co.uk/embroidery Six monthly Direct Debit £17.50 Annual Direct Debit £34.99 Credit/Debit card annual payments UK £37.99. EU/ROW £52.99 PRINT PLUS ARCHIVE SUBSCRIPTIONS https://bit.ly/embroiderypd Annual Direct Debit UK £49.99 Credit/Debit card annual payments UK £52.99. EU/ROW £67.99 For renewals, back issues, change of address,or single print copies please +44 (0)1778 392 468 embroidery@warnersgroup.co.uk

DEADLINES ISSUE . . . . . EDITORIAL . . . ADS Jul/Aug . . . 24 Apr . . . . . . 1 June Sep/Oct. . . 19 June . . . . . 28 July Nov/Dec . . 21 Aug. . . . . . 25 Sep

Embroidery magazine ISSN 1477-3724 is published by Embroiderers’ Guild Enterprises Ltd, a wholly owned subsidiary of The Embroiderers’ Guild. Registered office: Bucks County Museum, Church St, Aylesbury HP20 2QP. Printer & distributor: Warners Midlands, Manor Lane, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9PH. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Embroidery does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or images. The Editor reserves the right to edit all contributions. The views expressed in Embroidery are not necessarily those of the Editor or The Embroiderers’ Guild.

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