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Contents 6 In this issue Issue Spring Compass Editorial Stellar exhibitions, g round-breaking research and fresh perspectives illuminate the Hali Colloquium in Genoa Dialogue Mosul: Panorama of Destruction at Oxford’s Ashmolean Museum; ‘Teresa Lanceta: Weaving as Open Source’ in Valencia; an Arab thread at London’s Leighton House; new African and Middle Eastern department at Olympia Auctions; Trusted Conservators’ professional network; permanent Islamic art galleries at MFAH Diary Auctions, exhibitions and fairs worldwide Calendar The HALI listings page Thread of time Precious cargo from 16th and 17th-century shipwrecks provide a wealth of information about marine trading in those times Travellers’ tales Elena Wyszyn ski Before February’s Hali Colloqium in Genoa, a mini-tour under expert guidance introduced several woven wonders kept in Italy P r o fi l e David Paly’s early experiences awakened a fascination for textile arts and the instincts of an avid collector. His ikat collection is now celebrated in a book and museum exhibitions Anatomy of an object Noemi Espinosa A Nasrid silk in a remarkably fine state, from the Hispanic Society of America Common thread The distinctively blurred, feathered or jagged patterns of ikat-dyed textiles are found across much of the world Features Sole survivor Ru ssell Kelt y The only complete cloth known to date from Indonesia’s Hindu-Buddhist Majapahit kingdom Style matters: the case for Lakai suzanis Je ff S p u r r Linking urban suzanis from the Emirate of Bukhara and embroideries created by the Lakai, a rural Uzbek people Arabesques and palmettes Turaj Zuleh Three little-known Kerman carpets from Iran Threads that spanned the world Kristal Hale Indian chintzes, and the nuances of cross- continental trade they inspired Gateways to God Sumru Belger Krody The transcendental imagery of prayer carpets at The Textile Museum
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Contents 7 The sultan, the dragon, and the vanishing felts Elena Tsareva and Olga Merenkova Unseen Kashmiri felt rugs An anti-establishment institution Marku s Voi gt The story of kilim evangelist Werner Brändl Baluch in the blue A major exhibition of Baluch tribal weavings How Art Nouveau came to (and f rom) ‘Kota Batik’ Kees de Ruiter Fusing European aesthetics and Javanese batik The draw of good luck Thoma s Murray A visit to the Art Institute of Chicago Regalia of rank Chris Hall The later life of Chinese rank badges Domestic daintiness Marku s Voi gt Turkish towels and household embroideries Reviews Book reviews When Indian Flowers Bloomed in Europe: Master work s of Indian Trade Textile s, 1600 –1780, in the Tapi Collection by Ebeltje Hartkamp-Jonxis, reviewed by Rosemary Crill; The Shoemaker’s Stitch: Mochi Embroideries of Gujarat in the TAPI Collection by Shilpa Shah & Rosemary Crill, reviewed by Avalon Fotheringham; From the Land of the Sun: The Richard Stewart Collection of Baluch Rugs , Bags and Trappings by Thomas Cole, reviewed by Robert Bell Exhibition reviews ‘Shaped by the Loom: Weaving Worlds in the American Southwest’ at Bard Graduate Center, New York, reviewed by Judith Glass; ‘After Holbein—Turkish Carpets and the Tudors’ at Nickle Galleries, University of Calgary, Calgary, introduced by Michele Hardy Marketplace Auction report Lucien de Guise Each year the ki swah —the cloth that covers the Kaaba, the most sacred site in Islam—is replaced. Portions of the old one become both sacred relics and sought-after items at auction Auction previews The London spring sales and Material C u l t u r e ’s ‘From the Land of the Sun: the Richard Stewart Collection of Baluch and Navajo weavings’, previewed by Daniel Shaffer Auction price guide Auction results from around the world Last page From Japan to Central Asia to Peru with many stops in between: an exhibition at Seattle Art Museum explores the global nature of ikat

Contents 6

In this issue Issue Spring

Compass Editorial Stellar exhibitions, g round-breaking research and fresh perspectives illuminate the Hali Colloquium in Genoa

Dialogue Mosul: Panorama of Destruction at Oxford’s Ashmolean Museum; ‘Teresa Lanceta: Weaving as Open Source’ in Valencia; an Arab thread at London’s Leighton House; new African and Middle Eastern department at Olympia Auctions; Trusted Conservators’ professional network; permanent Islamic art galleries at MFAH

Diary Auctions, exhibitions and fairs worldwide

Calendar The HALI listings page

Thread of time Precious cargo from 16th and 17th-century shipwrecks provide a wealth of information about marine trading in those times

Travellers’ tales Elena Wyszyn ski Before February’s Hali Colloqium in Genoa, a mini-tour under expert guidance introduced several woven wonders kept in Italy

P r o fi l e David Paly’s early experiences awakened a fascination for textile arts and the instincts of an avid collector. His ikat collection is now celebrated in a book and museum exhibitions

Anatomy of an object Noemi Espinosa A Nasrid silk in a remarkably fine state, from the Hispanic Society of America

Common thread The distinctively blurred, feathered or jagged patterns of ikat-dyed textiles are found across much of the world

Features Sole survivor Ru ssell Kelt y The only complete cloth known to date from Indonesia’s Hindu-Buddhist Majapahit kingdom

Style matters: the case for Lakai suzanis Je ff S p u r r Linking urban suzanis from the Emirate of Bukhara and embroideries created by the Lakai, a rural Uzbek people

Arabesques and palmettes Turaj Zuleh Three little-known Kerman carpets from Iran

Threads that spanned the world Kristal Hale Indian chintzes, and the nuances of cross- continental trade they inspired

Gateways to God Sumru Belger Krody The transcendental imagery of prayer carpets at The Textile Museum

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