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editor Paul McGuinness deputy editor Jo Price features editor Sarah McPherson production editor Catherine Smalley art editor Richard Eccleston picture editor Tom Gilks senior digital editor Debbie Graham contributors Nick Baker, Puskar Basu, Stuart Blackman, Nigel Blake, Paul Bloomfield, Gillian Burke, Jo Caird, Laurie Campbell, Mark Carwardine, Peter Chadwick, Gary Chalker, JV Chamary, Lucy Cooke, Mike Dilger, Khursheed Dinshaw, David Fleetham, Justin Gilligan, Dave Hamilton, James Hanlon, Tuomas Heinonen, Tom Hibbert, Ben Hoare, Paul Hobson, Ross Hoddinott, Lynn Houghton, David Kjaer, Laura Kojima, Alex Lancaster, Cate Langmuir, Erica McAlister Archie McGuinness, Lal Muansanga, Alex Mustard, Jenny Price, Rolf von Riedmatten, Andy Rouse, Megan Shersby, Richard Smyth, Wanda Sowry, Gregory Sweeney, Jami Tarris, David Tipling, Nick Upton, Leoma Williams address editorial enquiries facebook twitter instagram web youtube Our Media, Eagle House, Bristol BS1 4ST, UK wildlifemagazine@ourmedia.co.uk @wildlifemagazine @WildlifeMag @bbcwildlifemagazine discoverwildlife.com bit.ly/bbcwildlifeyoutube advertising group ad manager Laura Jones laura. jones@ourmedia.co.uk business development manager Amy Thacker 0117 3008858 amy.thacker@ourmedia.co.uk business development manager Dan Baker 0117 3008280 dan.baker@ourmedia.co.uk brand sales executive Marc Hay 0117 300 8758 marc.hay@ourmedia.co.uk inserts Laurence Robertson 00353 876 902208 laurence.robertson@ourmedia.co.uk marketing subscriptions director Jacky Perales-Morris senior direct marketing manager Aimee Rhymer subscriptions Marketing Manager Natalie Lawrence pr manager Emma Cooney production ad co-ordinator Charles Thurlow ad designer Julia Young production Director Sarah Powell production co-ordinator Emily Mounter licensing and syndication rights manager Emma Brunt 0117 300 8979 emma.brunt@ourmedia.co.uk director of licensing and syndication Tim Hudson immediate media publishing group managing director Andy Marshall managing director Andrew Davies brand lead Daniel Bennett head of brand marketing Rosa Sherwood bbc studios, uk publishing chair, editorial review boards Nicholas Brett md, consumer products & licensing Stephen Davies global director, magazines Mandy Thwaites compliance manager Cameron McEwan uk.publishing@bbc.com bbc editorial review board Nicholas Brett chair Alasdair Cross producer, bbc radio 4 Sue Kent independent consultant Jane Lomas series editor, bbc countryfile Camila Ruz Renjifo digital producer, bbc natural history unit photography and ethics BBC Wildlife champions ethical wildlife photography that prioritises the welfare of animals and the environment. It is committed to the faithful representation of nature, free from excessive digital manipulation, and complete honesty in captioning. Photographers, please support us by disclosing all information about the circumstances under which your pictures were taken (including, but not restricted to, use of bait, captive or habituated animals). BBC Wildlife provides trusted, independent travel advice and information that has been gathered without fear or favour. We aim to provide options that cover a range of budgets and reveal the positive and negative points of the locations we visit. The views expressed in BBC Wildlife are those of the authors and not necessarily those of the magazine or its publisher. The publisher, editor and authors accept no responsibility in respect of any products, goods or services that may be advertised or referred to in this issue or for any errors, omissions, mis-statements or mistakes in any such advertisements or references. Our Media Company is working to ensure that all of its paper comes from well-managed, FSC®-certified forests and other controlled sources. This magazine is printed on Forest Stewardship Council® (FSC®) certified paper. This magazine can be recycled, for use in newspapers and packaging. Please remove any gifts, samples or wrapping and dispose of them at your local collection point. BBC Wildlife (ISSN 0265-3656 USPS XXXXX) is published monthly with an extra copy in June by Our Media Ltd (an Immediate Group Company), Eagle House, Bristol, BS1 4ST United Kingdom. Airfreight and mailing in the USA by World Container Inc., c/o BBT 150-15 183rd St, Jamaica, NY 11413-4037, USA. Periodicals postage paid at Brooklyn, NY 11256. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to BBC Wildlife magazine, World Container Inc., c/o BBT 150-15, 183rd St, Jamaica, NY 11431, USA. All rights reserved. No part of BBC Wildlife may be reproduced in any form or by any means, either wholly or in part, without prior written permission from the publisher. Not to be resold, lent, hired out or otherwise disposed of by way of trade at more than the recommended retail price (subject to VAT in the Republic of Ireland) or in mutilated condition. Printed by William Gibbons Ltd. BBC Wildlife is published by Our Media Ltd under licence from BBC Studios. © Our Media Ltd 2023. BBC WILDLIFE August 2023 4 / G E T T Y I M AG E S I N T : M C H A M E L E O N N E C K E D F L A P WA Be amazed by nature every nature every month with a month with a subscription subscription to the world’s to the world’s best wildlife best wildlife magazinemagazine
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LK THIS WAY Cast your eye over our subscription offer on page 34 discoverwildlife.com BBC WILDLIFE 5

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editor

Paul McGuinness deputy editor Jo Price features editor Sarah McPherson production editor Catherine Smalley art editor Richard Eccleston picture editor Tom Gilks senior digital editor Debbie Graham contributors

Nick Baker, Puskar Basu, Stuart Blackman, Nigel Blake, Paul Bloomfield, Gillian Burke, Jo Caird, Laurie Campbell, Mark Carwardine,

Peter Chadwick, Gary Chalker, JV Chamary, Lucy Cooke, Mike Dilger, Khursheed Dinshaw, David Fleetham, Justin Gilligan, Dave Hamilton, James Hanlon, Tuomas Heinonen, Tom Hibbert, Ben Hoare, Paul Hobson, Ross Hoddinott, Lynn Houghton, David Kjaer,

Laura Kojima, Alex Lancaster, Cate Langmuir, Erica McAlister Archie McGuinness, Lal Muansanga, Alex Mustard, Jenny Price,

Rolf von Riedmatten, Andy Rouse, Megan Shersby, Richard Smyth, Wanda Sowry, Gregory Sweeney, Jami Tarris,

David Tipling, Nick Upton, Leoma Williams address editorial enquiries facebook twitter instagram web youtube

Our Media, Eagle House, Bristol BS1 4ST, UK wildlifemagazine@ourmedia.co.uk @wildlifemagazine @WildlifeMag @bbcwildlifemagazine discoverwildlife.com bit.ly/bbcwildlifeyoutube advertising group ad manager Laura Jones laura. jones@ourmedia.co.uk business development manager Amy Thacker 0117 3008858

amy.thacker@ourmedia.co.uk business development manager Dan Baker 0117 3008280

dan.baker@ourmedia.co.uk brand sales executive Marc Hay 0117 300 8758

marc.hay@ourmedia.co.uk inserts Laurence Robertson 00353 876 902208

laurence.robertson@ourmedia.co.uk marketing subscriptions director Jacky Perales-Morris senior direct marketing manager Aimee Rhymer subscriptions Marketing Manager Natalie Lawrence pr manager Emma Cooney production ad co-ordinator Charles Thurlow ad designer Julia Young production Director Sarah Powell production co-ordinator Emily Mounter licensing and syndication rights manager Emma Brunt 0117 300 8979

emma.brunt@ourmedia.co.uk director of licensing and syndication Tim Hudson immediate media publishing group managing director Andy Marshall managing director Andrew Davies brand lead Daniel Bennett head of brand marketing Rosa Sherwood bbc studios, uk publishing chair, editorial review boards Nicholas Brett md, consumer products & licensing Stephen Davies global director, magazines Mandy Thwaites compliance manager Cameron McEwan uk.publishing@bbc.com bbc editorial review board Nicholas Brett chair Alasdair Cross producer, bbc radio 4 Sue Kent independent consultant Jane Lomas series editor, bbc countryfile Camila Ruz Renjifo digital producer, bbc natural history unit photography and ethics

BBC Wildlife champions ethical wildlife photography that prioritises the welfare of animals and the environment. It is committed to the faithful representation of nature, free from excessive digital manipulation, and complete honesty in captioning. Photographers, please support us by disclosing all information about the circumstances under which your pictures were taken (including, but not restricted to, use of bait, captive or habituated animals). BBC Wildlife provides trusted, independent travel advice and information that has been gathered without fear or favour. We aim to provide options that cover a range of budgets and reveal the positive and negative points of the locations we visit. The views expressed in BBC Wildlife are those of the authors and not necessarily those of the magazine or its publisher. The publisher, editor and authors accept no responsibility in respect of any products, goods or services that may be advertised or referred to in this issue or for any errors, omissions, mis-statements or mistakes in any such advertisements or references.

Our Media Company is working to ensure that all of its paper comes from well-managed, FSC®-certified forests and other controlled sources. This magazine is printed on Forest Stewardship Council® (FSC®) certified paper. This magazine can be recycled, for use in newspapers and packaging.

Please remove any gifts, samples or wrapping and dispose of them at your local collection point.

BBC Wildlife (ISSN 0265-3656 USPS XXXXX) is published monthly with an extra copy in June by Our Media Ltd (an Immediate Group Company), Eagle House, Bristol, BS1 4ST United Kingdom. Airfreight and mailing in the USA by World Container Inc., c/o BBT 150-15 183rd St, Jamaica, NY

11413-4037, USA. Periodicals postage paid at Brooklyn, NY 11256.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to BBC Wildlife magazine, World Container Inc., c/o BBT 150-15, 183rd St, Jamaica, NY 11431, USA. All rights reserved. No part of BBC Wildlife may be reproduced in any form or by any means, either wholly or in part, without prior written permission from the publisher. Not to be resold, lent, hired out or otherwise disposed of by way of trade at more than the recommended retail price (subject to VAT in the Republic of Ireland) or in mutilated condition. Printed by William Gibbons Ltd.

BBC Wildlife is published by Our Media Ltd under licence from BBC Studios.

© Our Media Ltd 2023.

BBC WILDLIFE August 2023 4

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I M AG E S

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C H A M E L E O N

N E C K E D

F L A P

WA

Be amazed by nature every nature every month with a month with a subscription subscription to the world’s to the world’s best wildlife best wildlife magazinemagazine

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