Issue 81 2023 CONTENTS
Features
124 FACE TO FACE JOHN WILLIAMS: THE APPLIANCE OF SCIENCE Margaret Rand meets the winemaker behind Napa’s celebrated Frog’s Leap, and finds a craftsman still committed to doing things his own way.
128 BURGUNDY PORTRAIT BORIS CHAMPY Jon Wyand snaps the winemaker at his domaine during the harvest in Nantoux in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune.
130 WINE AND WORDS EDWARD WARD 1667–1731: WINE AND THE GRUB STREET LIFE Kathleen Burk explores the life of a Grub Street hack who, after reporting on the seedier side of life in The London Spy, and after being pilloried for his political pronouncements, branched out into life as a publican and became a target of satirist Alexander Pope.
138 GRANITE: ROCK OF GRANDEUR, ROCK OF AGES Revered around the world for its exceptional physical properties, granite has a special status among rocks. But what, asks Alex Maltman, does that mean for a vineyard and its wine?
146 THE EMERGING GRAND CRUS OF SOUTH AMERICA Amanda Barnes highlights some of the special wine places that have emerged in Argentina, Chile, and Uruguay over recent years—the regions and subregions that, as well as showing strong and distinctive identities, are responsible for an increasing number of the continent’s finest wines.
156 SYMPOSIUM CERETTO BAROLO DINNER: TERROIR, ART, AND TRUFFLE-HUNTING Joanna Simon enjoys an 11-course meal matched with Ceretto’s Barolo and Barbaresco wines at the family’s Piazza Duomo restaurant.
160 ON THE VINE PENFOLDS IN CHINA: ON TOP OF THE WORLD IN SHANGRI-LA Even for a company with a history of international cooperation, the Australian producer’s Chinese project marks a bold new departure. Nick Ryan heads to the Himalayas for the launch of its first exciting release.
166 VERAISON RUTGER DE VINK AND THE QUEST FOR AN AMERICAN CRU Possessing determination, resources, and an expanding professional network have their rewards, Roger Morris finds on a visit to an aspiring Virginia estate.
172 ALBION AWAKES GUSBOURNE ESTATE: PUTTING DOWN ROOTS Margaret Rand visits a Kent-based producer that has made serious progress in recent years, moving from good to very good indeed.
6 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 81 | 2023
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