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CONTENTS Issue 81 2023 Tastings 10 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 81 | 2023 176 ONE BOTTLE 1952 VERDELHO JUBILEE SELECTION LEACOCK MADEIRA: A MAGNETIC MIASMA, AN ELIXIR OF YOUTH Andrew Jefford reflects on a single interesting bottle. 179 TASTINGS The distinctive World of Fine Wine tasting philosophy and protocol for both blind and open tastings, as well as the members of the permanent panel. 182 GOÛT DE TERROIR ALSACE GRANDS CRUS: FOUR FOR A HALLELUJAH Stephan Reinhardt is joined by Andrew Jefford and Anthony Rose for an exceptional tasting of wines from four Alsace grands crus representing four different geological types of terroir—Schlossberg, Rangen, Schoenenbourg, and Rosacker. 194 S AVO R SKIN-CONTACT WHITES: COLOR DECODING David Williams is joined by Anne Krebiehl MW and Francis Percival for a stimulating tasting of the fashionable but still divisive category known variously as amber, orange, or skin-contact white wine, featuring 31 wines of multiple hues and origins. 202 SAVOR ETNA REDS: WEIGHTLESS WONDERS The best of the elegant wines produced in Etna’s extraordinarily complex soils are already some of Italy’s finest, says Andrew Jefford after a tasting shared with Bruno Besa and Michael Palij MW. 210 S AVO R SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE CABERNET SAUVIGNON: IN THE RUNNING Australian producers led a field that also included some of the biggest names in Argentina, Chile, New Zealand, and South Africa at a tasting of consistent quality that showed why this grape variety is so enduringly popular, says David Williams, who was joined by Simon Field MW and Anthony Rose. lier Cheva de ine of Doma cour tesy lier; photography Cheva de ine at Doma MW ld ie Fimon S
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OUR STAR IS AT THE HEART OF THE ANDES MOUNTAINS, FORMED FROM MILLIONS OF YEARS OF VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS AND MIGHTY EARTHQUAKES. ALTAIR , AN EXTRAORDINARY WINE BLEND THAT REPRESENTS T HE BEST EXPRESSION OF THE CACHAPOAL ANDES VALLEY.

CONTENTS

Issue 81 2023

Tastings

10 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 81 | 2023

176 ONE BOTTLE 1952 VERDELHO JUBILEE SELECTION LEACOCK MADEIRA: A MAGNETIC MIASMA, AN ELIXIR OF YOUTH Andrew Jefford reflects on a single interesting bottle.

179 TASTINGS The distinctive World of Fine Wine tasting philosophy and protocol for both blind and open tastings, as well as the members of the permanent panel.

182 GOÛT DE TERROIR ALSACE GRANDS CRUS: FOUR FOR A HALLELUJAH Stephan Reinhardt is joined by Andrew Jefford and Anthony Rose for an exceptional tasting of wines from four Alsace grands crus representing four different geological types of terroir—Schlossberg, Rangen, Schoenenbourg, and Rosacker.

194 S AVO R SKIN-CONTACT WHITES: COLOR DECODING David Williams is joined by Anne Krebiehl MW and Francis Percival for a stimulating tasting of the fashionable but still divisive category known variously as amber, orange, or skin-contact white wine, featuring 31 wines of multiple hues and origins.

202 SAVOR ETNA REDS: WEIGHTLESS WONDERS The best of the elegant wines produced in Etna’s extraordinarily complex soils are already some of Italy’s finest, says Andrew Jefford after a tasting shared with Bruno Besa and Michael Palij MW.

210 S AVO R SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE CABERNET SAUVIGNON: IN THE RUNNING Australian producers led a field that also included some of the biggest names in Argentina, Chile, New Zealand, and South Africa at a tasting of consistent quality that showed why this grape variety is so enduringly popular, says David Williams, who was joined by Simon Field MW and Anthony Rose.

lier

Cheva de ine of Doma cour tesy lier; photography

Cheva de ine at Doma

MW

ld ie

Fimon

S

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