Skip to main content
Read page text
page 8
CONTENTS Issue 81 2023 Regulars Opinion 12 CONTRIBUTORS The tasters and writers in this issue. 20 NOUVEAU Roger Morris on the rhizosphere; Tim Hall on Printemps des Champagnes; Margaret Rand on changing patterns of trade; Raymond Blake visits Porto’s World of Wine; Stephen Brook pays tribute to Alexandre de Lur Saluces. 34 LETTERS Chris Howell on Stephen Brook’s The Complete Bordeaux; Henk Prins and Gert Crum on Essi Avellan MW’s review of Mapping Champagne by Charles Curtis MW and Steve De Long. 36 LIQUID ASSETS A DOWNTURN IN SALES DOES NOT NECESSARILY MEAN A LOSS OF CONSUMER INTEREST Chloe Ashton reports on the latest news and views from the world’s fine-wine salerooms, as things begin to cool off again. 48 PREVIEW David Schildknecht on New French Wine: Redefining the World’s Greatest Wine Culture by Jon Bonné; Sarah Ahmed on Talha Tales: Portugal’s Ancient Answer to Amphora Wines by Paul White; Raymond Blake on Richard Mayson’s Modern Madeira; Neal Hulkower on Wine Witch on Fire: Rising from the Ashes of Divorce, Defamation, and Drinking too Much by Natalie MacLean; Stuart Walton on Ways of Eating: Exploring Food Through History and Culture by Benjamin Wurgaft and Merry White; Brian St Pierre on Ten Poems about Wine edited by Jonathan Davidson; Anne Krebiehl MW on 2009 Dom Pérignon Rosé; Simon Field MW on Roederer Collection 244, Roederer Cristal 2015 and 2014 Rosé, 2013 Rare, and Gosset 12 Ans de Cave a Minima Rosé; Andrew Jefford on Pepe Raventós Mas del Serral 2012 and earlier releases; Simon Field MW on the Domaine de Chevalier 40th anniversary auction, 1983–2022, at Christie’s, London on November 30; Robin Lee on Bibi Graetz 2020 Colore; Sarah Ahmed on 2017 Herdade do Esporão Torre; Ken Gargett on Penfolds 2023 Collection. 92 REVIEW Anne Krebiehl MW on the Krug 180th anniversary tasting of 15 Editions of Grande Cuvée and five of Rosé; Simon Field MW on the Château Haut-Bailly 25th anniversary tasting, 1998–2022; Robin Lee on Vignai da Duline; Anthony Rose on Isole e Olena Cepparello 2006–20; Sarah Ahmed on 30 years of Niepoort table wine; Ken Gargett on the Henschke Hill of Grace 60th anniversary tasting, 1958–2018. 18 L’ÂME DU VIN THOUGHTS AFTER ABSTINENCE Harry Eyres on a week without wine. 46 PRISE DE MOUSSE APPELLATIONAL ASPIRATIONS David Schildknecht on DACs and VQAs. 90 À LA VOLÉE MAKING A DIFFERENCE Tom Stevenson is powered by Nespresso. 120 IN VINO SANITAS WHEN THE MIND CONTROLS THE FATE OF THE HEART Dr Erik Skovenborg on wine and stress. 122 MYTHS AND REALITIES THE (NON-) SCIENCE OF BIODYNAMICS Benjamin Lewin MW takes on Rudolf Steiner. 154 SINOPHILE THE CHANGING FACES OF FINE WINE IN CHINA Things have moved on over the past decade, say Fongyee Walker MW and Edward Ragg MW. i of Zuccard cour tesy i; photography 218 FINISH NURSERY RHYMES WITH THE TIMES Michel Bettane on going back to the plant. Sebastián Zuccard 8 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 81 | 2023
page 9
Beyond rare vintages Recreating the perfect year 9 6/10 0 Essi Avell an MW 19/20 9 6/10 0 Grand Siècle Nº23 in magnum. On allocation. www.laurent-perrier.com

Page Text

View plaintext

CONTENTS

Issue 81 2023

Regulars

Opinion

12 CONTRIBUTORS The tasters and writers in this issue.

20 NOUVEAU Roger Morris on the rhizosphere; Tim Hall on Printemps des Champagnes; Margaret Rand on changing patterns of trade; Raymond Blake visits Porto’s World of Wine; Stephen Brook pays tribute to Alexandre de Lur Saluces.

34 LETTERS Chris Howell on Stephen Brook’s The Complete Bordeaux; Henk Prins and Gert Crum on Essi Avellan MW’s review of Mapping Champagne by Charles Curtis MW and Steve De Long.

36 LIQUID ASSETS A DOWNTURN IN SALES DOES NOT NECESSARILY MEAN A LOSS OF CONSUMER INTEREST Chloe Ashton reports on the latest news and views from the world’s fine-wine salerooms, as things begin to cool off again.

48 PREVIEW David Schildknecht on New French Wine: Redefining the World’s Greatest Wine Culture by Jon Bonné; Sarah Ahmed on Talha Tales: Portugal’s Ancient Answer to Amphora Wines by Paul White; Raymond Blake on Richard Mayson’s Modern Madeira; Neal Hulkower on Wine Witch on Fire: Rising from the Ashes of Divorce, Defamation, and Drinking too Much by Natalie MacLean; Stuart Walton on Ways of Eating: Exploring Food Through History and Culture by Benjamin Wurgaft and Merry White; Brian St Pierre on Ten Poems about Wine edited by Jonathan Davidson; Anne Krebiehl MW on 2009 Dom Pérignon Rosé; Simon Field MW on Roederer Collection 244, Roederer Cristal 2015 and 2014 Rosé, 2013 Rare, and Gosset 12 Ans de Cave a Minima Rosé; Andrew Jefford on Pepe Raventós Mas del Serral 2012 and earlier releases; Simon Field MW on the Domaine de Chevalier 40th anniversary auction, 1983–2022, at Christie’s, London on November 30; Robin Lee on Bibi Graetz 2020 Colore; Sarah Ahmed on 2017 Herdade do Esporão Torre; Ken Gargett on Penfolds 2023 Collection.

92 REVIEW Anne Krebiehl MW on the Krug 180th anniversary tasting of 15 Editions of Grande Cuvée and five of Rosé; Simon Field MW on the Château Haut-Bailly 25th anniversary tasting, 1998–2022; Robin Lee on Vignai da Duline; Anthony Rose on Isole e Olena Cepparello 2006–20; Sarah Ahmed on 30 years of Niepoort table wine; Ken Gargett on the Henschke Hill of Grace 60th anniversary tasting, 1958–2018.

18 L’ÂME DU VIN THOUGHTS AFTER ABSTINENCE Harry Eyres on a week without wine.

46 PRISE DE MOUSSE APPELLATIONAL ASPIRATIONS David Schildknecht on DACs and VQAs.

90 À LA VOLÉE MAKING A DIFFERENCE Tom Stevenson is powered by Nespresso.

120 IN VINO SANITAS WHEN THE MIND CONTROLS THE FATE OF THE HEART Dr Erik Skovenborg on wine and stress.

122 MYTHS AND REALITIES THE (NON-) SCIENCE OF BIODYNAMICS Benjamin Lewin MW takes on Rudolf Steiner.

154 SINOPHILE THE CHANGING FACES OF FINE WINE IN CHINA Things have moved on over the past decade, say Fongyee Walker MW and Edward Ragg MW.

i of Zuccard cour tesy i; photography

218 FINISH NURSERY RHYMES WITH THE TIMES Michel Bettane on going back to the plant. Sebastián

Zuccard

8 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 81 | 2023

read next page

My Bookmarks

Buy this Book
Skip to main content