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CHECK IN 12 Viewfinder Slovenia, Greece and Ethiopia bounce back, plus wild leopards 22 Just Back From… Feeling the heat alongside Iceland’s lava peepers, and we escape to lush Vermont 29 Your Photos You send us your top travel shots

JOURNAL 32 Grapevine All the latest travel news, views, stays and exhibitions 37 Health How to make sure that diabetes doesn’t upset your adventures 44 Armchair Travel The shows, podcasts and books to set your travel passions alight 52 Departures We pick the tours that offer a fresh look at North America

56 Sustainable Travel When the pictures we take can do more harm than good 58 World Food: Nikkei How the arrival of Japanese workers in the late 19th century gave Peru a taste for umami 63 Dream Sleep Visit the sustainable stay that is revitalising a little-seen part of Greece’s Peloponnese 66 WanderSleeps: Canadian Rockies The Rocky Mountain stays that make the most of their setting 74 Dispatches: Belize Join a new trail inviting visitors to explore Belize’s Garifuna heritage via its communities 84 Dispatches: Mesa Verde National Park Why the disappearance of Colorado’s Ancestral Pueblo people is no mystery at all

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