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THIS ISSUE MAPPED Contents 52 22 63 56 58 44 168 CHECK IN 12 Viewfinder Slovenia, Greece and Ethiopia bounce back, plus wild leopards 22 Just Back From… Feeling the heat alongside Iceland’s lava peepers, and we escape to lush Vermont 29 Your Photos You send us your top travel shots JOURNAL 32 Grapevine All the latest travel news, views, stays and exhibitions 37 Health How to make sure that diabetes doesn’t upset your adventures 44 Armchair Travel The shows, podcasts and books to set your travel passions alight 52 Departures We pick the tours that offer a fresh look at North America 56 Sustainable Travel When the pictures we take can do more harm than good 58 World Food: Nikkei How the arrival of Japanese workers in the late 19th century gave Peru a taste for umami 63 Dream Sleep Visit the sustainable stay that is revitalising a little-seen part of Greece’s Peloponnese 66 WanderSleeps: Canadian Rockies The Rocky Mountain stays that make the most of their setting 74 Dispatches: Belize Join a new trail inviting visitors to explore Belize’s Garifuna heritage via its communities 84 Dispatches: Mesa Verde National Park Why the disappearance of Colorado’s Ancestral Pueblo people is no mystery at all 66 74 84
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96 152 208 206 FEATURES 96 India’s Tigers It has been 50 years since India launched Project Tiger, a landmark conservation programme that introduced a raft of parks, reserves and policies created to protect a tiger population limping towards extinction. Now, with numbers creeping upwards, we visit the habitats of Madhya Pradesh to see the effect on a country that is now home to 70% of the world’s tiger population 114 USA & Canada in Fall Autumn in North America is a time of fine food, great festivals and unforgettable foliage. We talk to the locals who know it best, as they pick the top fall escapes in the USA and Canada, from leaf-peeping road trips to buffalo round-ups, to joining the celebrations at North America’s largest (and loudest) powwow 152 The North Wales Way How a slow drive along the North Wales Way rekindled one writer’s love for the region and revealed a part of Wales that is gradually reinventing itself through food, culture and the rediscovery of its history from a local perspective 168 Historic Jeddah The district of Al-Balad was the heart of Jeddah for centuries, but it has long since fallen into 114 disrepair. As its townhouses undergo a much-needed restoration and it readies itself for a new wave of visitors, we take a sneak peek at what is being done to restore the area to its best while still keeping its communities and soul intact DISCOVER 200 World Heritage Why a recent oil boom means Guyana’s capital must balance preservation of its colonial past with building for the future 204 Museum Cities How the Age of Discovery gifted Lisbon a museum scene to envy 206 Indigenous Culture A new wave of local travel experiences is finally helping Kenya’s remote communities to benefit from tourism 208 Urban Spotlight Bordeaux isn’t just about wine. The city is forever reinventing itself, and it’s putting culture and sustainability at the forefront 216 British Break The UK’s dark-sky sites reveal not only cosmic views, but a history and wildlife tied to the heavens 223 Wanderlust Quiz Test your travel knowledge by naming these US cities 226 Top Guide Gambian birding expert Malick Suso on his top sightings : Scott Je ssop illustration Map 114 The Yukon Iceland 22 216 Northumberland Oregon 114 Idaho 114 Colorado 84 52 Manitoba The Maritimes 52 North Wales 152 Bordeaux 208 12 22 Vermont Lisbon 204 Peloponnese Slovenia 63 12 Rhodes 114 Amelia Island 114 Puerto Rico 226 The Gambia Jeddah 168 12 Diriyah India 96 Georgetown 200 Kenya 206 56 Bangladesh 32 Malaysia SUBSCRIBE TODAY! And get exclusive access to offers, competitions and events. See p40 for details Peru 58 12 Falkland Islands Great Barrier Reef 32 www.wanderlustmagazine.com 11

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THIS ISSUE MAPPED

Contents

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CHECK IN 12 Viewfinder Slovenia, Greece and Ethiopia bounce back, plus wild leopards 22 Just Back From… Feeling the heat alongside Iceland’s lava peepers, and we escape to lush Vermont 29 Your Photos You send us your top travel shots

JOURNAL 32 Grapevine All the latest travel news, views, stays and exhibitions 37 Health How to make sure that diabetes doesn’t upset your adventures 44 Armchair Travel The shows, podcasts and books to set your travel passions alight 52 Departures We pick the tours that offer a fresh look at North America

56 Sustainable Travel When the pictures we take can do more harm than good 58 World Food: Nikkei How the arrival of Japanese workers in the late 19th century gave Peru a taste for umami 63 Dream Sleep Visit the sustainable stay that is revitalising a little-seen part of Greece’s Peloponnese 66 WanderSleeps: Canadian Rockies The Rocky Mountain stays that make the most of their setting 74 Dispatches: Belize Join a new trail inviting visitors to explore Belize’s Garifuna heritage via its communities 84 Dispatches: Mesa Verde National Park Why the disappearance of Colorado’s Ancestral Pueblo people is no mystery at all

66

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