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Contents 4

In this issue Issue Autumn

Compass Editorial Whether by accident or design, issues of provenance have come to the fore when putting together this issue

Dialogue ICOC XV in Istanbul, June 2024; Joseph V. McMullan Award winners 2023; a $25 million endowment gift for a Washington, DC museum; Hajji Baba Fellowship 2023; replica of Berlin ‘dragon’ carpet chopped into 100 pieces; the last of the Elveden Zieglers; Lila Valadan’s ‘Night Time in a Palace’ installation at Domotex 2024

Diary Auctions, exhibitions and fairs worldwide

Calendar The HALI listings page for the quarter

Thread of time Patches reveal and conceal information about the past lives of a 20th-century Japanese kimono and a 12th-century European carpet

Travellers’ tales Ben Evan s An eager band of enthusiasts enjoyed this year’s TKF/ICOC Conference Tour of Poland

P r o fi l e Alberto Levi Robert Mann is something of a carpet restoration guru, with a career spanning more than forty years

Anatomy of an object Richard Isaacson A Turkmen Uzbek julkhyrs, recently acquired by the author, presents questions

Common thread Across a historical continuum, poetry and woven works have engaged in dialogue. Whether it is incorporated as calligraphic inscription or pictorial conceit, poetic verse in textiles helps to visually transmit messages concerning mortality, love and religious faith

Features Cassirer carpet resolution Michael Franses Tr a c i n g the chequered history of the Cassirer carpets as one stellar example is acquired by the Berlin Museum of Islamic Art

The Kaffel index D a n i e l S h a ff e r A tribute to the late HALI contributor ahead of a Grogan & Company sale in Boston offering antique tribal and village rugs from his collection

‘Abas abroad Nader Sayadi A study of the 19th-century Syrian ‘a ba garment

From psychedelia to scholarship Sheila Fruman & Mary Schoeser A new book explores how the hippie generation travelled east and brought back textile treasures

Paper trail Thomas Cole Evocative paper labels on Indian textiles tell stories of an India that was

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