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Cover The founder of the Turkish Republic, Mustafa Kemal (1881–1938), l at er Atatürk, signed this card ‘Gazi Mustafa Kemal, Çankaya, February 1, 1926’. He inscribed it to the branch of the Turkish Hearth in Vezirköprü.

Turkish Hearth institutes, set up in 1912 to promote culture and education, spearheaded protests against the occupation of Istanbul in 1918–23, and would help unify the nation.

The signed sepia photo above, courtesy of Antiquariat Inlibris, Vienna (, was specially tinted for our cover.

Celebrating 100 years of the Republic Centenary exhibitions in 2023–24 include fashion, archaeology and modern art. See centenary

Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs

Tr av e l The Season Ticket

In the dead of winter, Annette Louise Solakoğlu took the train to Kars · 68

The Gentle Hunt

Lake Van’s wild-flower extravaganza, by Andrew Byfield · 110

Connoisseur The Long View

The passion for Istanbul panoramas, by Thomas Roueché · 5

The Land of Hatti

Turkey’s beautiful Bronze Age, by Andrew Finkel · 21

Fashion Revolution

From elaborate Empire to chic Republic, by Berrin Torolsan · 24

Saleroom highlights · 30


In Pursuit of an Explorer Gertrude Bell’s adventures in Turkey · 35

A True Story from the Caucasus The bride’s progress · 36

Paradox in Paradise The story of Yıldız Palace · 38

Shrouded in Mystery Three Istanbul novels · 40 Forbidden Fruit The Uyghurs’ poignant poetry · 41

City Escapes Istanbul’s wilder shores · 42

People and Places Don McCullin’s Wars and Peace

Maureen Freely talks to the fearless photojournalist about darkness and light and his epic new book on Roman Turkey · 44

Jason Goodwin on Barnaby Rogerson’s gallop through Asia Minor’s history · 54

Th e Tr e a su r e d S h e l l

Suna Erbil Demirağ invites Berrin Torolsan into her father’s Art Deco haven · 56

Occupational Hazards

When the Allies took over Istanbul, by John Shakespeare Dyson · 122

Maureen Freely on a riven city · 136


Know your Onions In praise of a pungent power, by Berrin Torolsan · 138

From Our Correspondents P r i vat e Vi e w · 32 Man about Town · 148 Eating Out · 150

Let t er from Rome · 153 Music · 154

Postscrip t

Farewell to the great Byzantinist Robert G Ousterhout · 146

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