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world 48 SELVEDGE BG: How long does it take to tie and dye a textile? AK and AK: Given the nature of the process, it can take a week to tie a textile, or it could take up to five months. It depends on the fineness of the knots, the intricacy of the design, the fabric length and the number of colours required in the final design. For instance, a sari with an intricate design can have 100,000 dots! Further, the dots can be as fine as a mustard seed. The dyeing depends on the number of colours of the final work. For instance, if the design is of dots of a single colour, such as white, and the rest of the cloth is to be blue, then there is only one dyeing of indigo done, which takes less time than if two or more dyes are involved. If the design has dots of more than one colour, then the tying and dyeing is done repeatedly, moving from light to dark colours. In such a textile, there may be dots of different colours or the roundels may be encircled by different colours/have concentric circles of different colours. The last colour the cloth is dyed in is the darkest, such as black. Sometimes if a black circle is required around the dot, then a discharge dye is done so that the black ring stands out. BG: Please tell us about your product range. AK and AK: We do yardage, stoles, dupattas, saris, and stitched garments. Our tie-dye designs stand out for their geometric and abstract motifs, patterns, and artistic colour combinations that give them a contemporary and international sensibility. We have also revived traditional tie-dyed textiles such as the Chandrakhani dupatta gifted by a mother-in-law to her daughter-in-law when she comes home after the wedding ceremony. We design and stitch garments and collaborate with other designers to create fabrics for special collections. At the 7th Walking Hand-inHand fashion show, presented by Asif Shaikh’s CDS Art Foundation, held at Ahmedabad on 5 January 2024, we collaborated with Himanshu Shani of 11.11 / eleven eleven to co-create designer garments of a very contemporary silhouette. We clamp-dyed cloth using natural indigo for this collection. BG: Your work has been appreciated internationally. AK and AK: We love our work and are truly happy that it has brought joy to textile lovers worldwide. We have worked with many textile and fashion designers, held workshops, and shown our work at fairs in India and abroad, including the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico. We have been honoured with many awards. In 2006 and 2007, Abduljabbar received the UNESCO Seal of Excellence for crafting high-quality, tie-dyed textiles. We aim to continue to create beautiful tie-dye textiles to support the craft and artisans. ••• Brinda Gill @bhido.art Image above right: dosa bandhani blind. Image right: dosa Bandhani Flag installation at Museo Textil de Oaxaca, 2016 im Yoshihiro Makino, Chr is tina K
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We have one of Purl Soho’s Nine-Note Bundles to give away. The NineNote Bundle is a carefully calibrated scale of nine skeins ranging from pale to saturated. It is an incredible mix of 80 percent fine merino and 20 percent baby alpaca. It has a high twist to ward off pilling, and its 6-ply structure results in a round, plump, light-worsted weight that is exceptionally strong and shows each stitch beautifully. It has a wonderful drape and exquisite softness and is a joy to knit! Worth £100. This hand-drawn batik tulis is delicately designed to accompany you through life’s milestones. – a future heirloom to pass on through generations. Throw it over your shoulder as a shawl, tie it around your waist as a sarong, style it as a dress, or hang it on a wall. Each star is drawn by hand, with a tjanting and hot wax and dyed with regeneratively grown plants and agricultural waste to protect our rivers from toxic chemicals. Finished with hand-rolled hem. We have one to give away worth £420. WIN WIN WIN Exclusively for Selvedge readers, visit www.selvedge.org to enter www.purlsoho.com www.stjudesprints.co.uk www.sukkhacitta.com www.bibihanum.com We have an original limited edition print signed by Angie Lewin. This print was commissioned by the Towner Art Gallery in Eastbourne for their 2014 exhibition, Designing The Everyday, curated by Nathaniel Hepburn and featured Eric Ravilious, Paul Nash, Wyndham Lewis, Graham Sutherland and many more, alongside work by Angie Lewin. Win this print and a £200 gift voucher to purchase any in-stock fabric or wallpaper designed by Lewin. Worth £550. We have a Made by Bibi Hanum; this Silk Ikat Robe is a testament to luxury and a statement piece. The fabric is made with resistdyed hand-woven mulberry silk. The ikat patterns, a reflection of traditional craftsmanship, grace the exterior and interior of the robe, creating a captivating garment. The front of the robe is adorned with a beaded tassel tie. The cotton ikat lining makes it reversible and creates a striking detail when the robe is worn open. The robe is finished with a solid colour hem, adding structure and refinement to the look. One size worth $495.

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48

SELVEDGE

BG: How long does it take to tie and dye a textile? AK and AK: Given the nature of the process, it can take a week to tie a textile, or it could take up to five months. It depends on the fineness of the knots, the intricacy of the design, the fabric length and the number of colours required in the final design. For instance, a sari with an intricate design can have 100,000 dots! Further, the dots can be as fine as a mustard seed. The dyeing depends on the number of colours of the final work. For instance, if the design is of dots of a single colour, such as white, and the rest of the cloth is to be blue, then there is only one dyeing of indigo done, which takes less time than if two or more dyes are involved. If the design has dots of more than one colour, then the tying and dyeing is done repeatedly, moving from light to dark colours. In such a textile, there may be dots of different colours or the roundels may be encircled by different colours/have concentric circles of different colours. The last colour the cloth is dyed in is the darkest, such as black. Sometimes if a black circle is required around the dot, then a discharge dye is done so that the black ring stands out. BG: Please tell us about your product range. AK and AK: We do yardage, stoles, dupattas, saris, and stitched garments. Our tie-dye designs stand out for their geometric and abstract motifs, patterns, and artistic colour combinations that give them a contemporary and international sensibility. We have also revived traditional tie-dyed textiles such as the Chandrakhani dupatta gifted by a mother-in-law to her daughter-in-law when she comes home after the wedding ceremony. We design and stitch garments and collaborate with other designers to create fabrics for special collections. At the 7th Walking Hand-inHand fashion show, presented by Asif Shaikh’s CDS Art Foundation, held at Ahmedabad on 5 January 2024, we collaborated with Himanshu Shani of 11.11 / eleven eleven to co-create designer garments of a very contemporary silhouette. We clamp-dyed cloth using natural indigo for this collection. BG: Your work has been appreciated internationally. AK and AK: We love our work and are truly happy that it has brought joy to textile lovers worldwide. We have worked with many textile and fashion designers, held workshops, and shown our work at fairs in India and abroad, including the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico. We have been honoured with many awards. In 2006 and 2007, Abduljabbar received the UNESCO Seal of Excellence for crafting high-quality, tie-dyed textiles. We aim to continue to create beautiful tie-dye textiles to support the craft and artisans. ••• Brinda Gill @bhido.art Image above right: dosa bandhani blind. Image right: dosa Bandhani Flag installation at Museo Textil de Oaxaca, 2016

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Yoshihiro Makino, Chr is tina K

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