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Issue 83 2024 CONTENTS


42 DE GUSTIBUS NOTES ON A CELLAR-BOOK: WHY SUCH A HIT? Why has a book that neither educates nor entertains never been out of print, asks Hugh Johnson of George Saintsbury’s 1920 work.

108 FACE TO FACE LAURENT DELAUNAY: LANDS OF OPPORTUNITY Laurent Delaunay tells Margaret Rand how he succeeded in the Languedoc before reclaiming the family name and business in Burgundy.

112 BURGUNDY PORTRAIT VINCENT DUREUIL Jon Wyand photographs a star of the Côte Chalonnaise.

116 THEN AND NOW DID DARWIN SAVE WINE? For Charles Darwin, the grapevine was exceptional in illustrating so powerfully his theory of the modification of species. But did his work, in turn, play a crucial role in overcoming the phylloxera crisis and saving viticulture as we know it today, asks Professor Michael Summerfield.

124 AUSTRALIAN RIESLING: AN UNDERRATED, PRISTINE JOY While it may still struggle for mainstream acceptance, Riesling has proved itself capable of making exceptional wines in Australia, says Ken Gargett, who distills the history and current trends of the variety across the country’s growing regions, before picking out some of his favorite wines.

136 TASMANIA UNLOCKED In remarkably quick time, Australia’s most southerly wine region has become one of the world’s most exciting wine regions. Sarah Ahmed charts the irresistible rise of the cool-climate home of some of Australia’s finest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.


146 VERAISON WILLIAM KELLEY: SWITCHING SIDES One of the world’s most influential wine critics is now making his own wine in Burgundy—and the results are extremely impressive, says Paul Day.


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150 ALBION AWAKES WISTON ESTATE: BANANA BELT REPUBLIC Margaret Rand visits a part of the South Downs famed (and nicknamed) for its warm climate, where the Goring family is making fine sparkling wines of tension and generosity on their sustainably managed farm. 154 GENIUS LOCI NARAMATA BENCH: OKANAGAN VALLEY’S SWEET SPOT? There’s something very special about the subregion on the southeastern side of British Columbia’s Lake Okanagan, says Rod Phillips. Lud

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