CONTENTS
Issue 84 2024
Regulars
Opinion
14 CONTRIBUTORS The tasters and writers in this issue.
20 NOUVEAU Chloe Ashton on the 2023 Bordeaux en primeur campaign; Sarah Marsh MW on the 2024 Hospices de Nuits-St-Georges sale; Anne Krebiehl MW on Judgement of London.
36 LIQUID ASSETS FINE WINE A TRICKY PROSPECT FOR SHORT-TERM INVESTMENT Chloe Ashton rounds up the highlights and trends of the first quarter of 2024 in wine auctions and the secondary market.
48 PREVIEW Nick Ryan on Andrew Caillard MW’s The Australian Ark: The Story of Australian Wine; Raymond Blake on The Story of Wine: 8000 Years, 100 Bottles by Oz Clarke; Andrew Jefford on Marc Millon’s Italy in a Wine Glass: The Taste of History; Stuart Walton on China in Seven Banquets: A Flavourful History by Thomas David DuBois; Anne Krebiehl MW on 2012 Billecart-Salmon Elisabeth Salmon and Louis Salmon; Simon Field MW on 2015 Bollinger Grande Année and Rosé, 2015 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé, and Lallier new releases; Raymond Blake on 2020 Angélus Blanc; Robin Lee on 2021 Ornellaia Vendemmia d’Artista.
70 REVIEW Simon Field MW on Champagne Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1975–2015; Neil Beckett on Clos des Lambrays 1923–2023; Sarah Ahmed on Yalumba’s The Caley 2012–19.
18 L’ÂME DU VIN WINE AND MULTIPLE IDENTITIES? Harry Eyres considers blends and terroir.
46 À LA VOLÉE ONCE UPON A TIME Tom Stevenson tastes top 2004 Champagnes.
68 MYTHS AND REALITIES HIERARCHIES Benjamin Lewin MW on retrofitting a pyramid.
84 PRISE DE MOUSSE POINTS OF VIEW AND VIEWS OF POINTS David Schildknecht on scores, ratings, and wine competitions.
91 IN VINO SANITAS DRINKING WITH FRIENDS: WINE’S ROLE AS A SOCIAL LUBRICANT Dr Erik Skovenborg on a vital vinous function.
146 GOOD HOPE NEW-WAVE PINOTAGE: NO LONGER MONSTROUS Tim James on a reformed grape variety.
Lambrays des ine of Doma
, cour tesy ly
Jo
218 FINISH THE TREE THAT HIDES THE FOREST Michel Bettane on the iniquities of wine prices. Photography
JM
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8 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 84 | 2024