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FROM THE EDITOR ■ ONCE THE GRAND old oak I can see from my office becomes even the tiniest bit tinged with gold, my nesting instincts return and I long for the quiet, contemplative activities of knitting, stitching and getting lost in a good book. It’s no surprise then that the run up to (whisper it) Christmas is a key period for book launches and a fr uitful time for the latest stitch titles. LOUISE SAXTON cut & pinned is a new monograph from the ar tist, aka The Embroider y Vandal, so-called because she ‘cuts and pins’ her enviable needlework stash to form reinterpretations of historical paintings. Louise seeks to raise the status of the mostly anonymous makers responsible for her embroider y collection, often tagged merely ‘women’s work’. On page 28 you’ll find her stunning Count Raggi’s bird of paradise (after Ellis Rowan’s work of 1917).This is the national bird of Papua New Guinea, where it is common – which is hard to imagine. Louise’s work also star s on our cover. Meanwhile, Cas Holmes and Deena Bever ley have created Soulful Stitch, a title about finding creativity in times of crisis. Jessie Chorley’s Journal with Thread is her fir st book with a publisher, indie craft specialist David and Charles. Both will be launched at the Knitting and Stitching Show, London in October. The K&S Show in London, Belfast and Harrogate is one of the most exciting events for exhibitions, workshops and ‘the annual shop’ and ‘puts the social into stitching’ as a meet-up destination for embroiderers from all over the UK. We reveal some highlights on page 43, where you’ll also find a ticket offer. Another inspiring date in the stitch calendar is New Designers in London, back in May, the annual showcase of the UK’s innovative emerging design talent. Here, I gained a real sense of the graduates’ excitement for the future. One graduate based her work on free association of ideas while listening to music with quir ky results: a sumo wrestler tackling a Chinese dragon. Another took the good ol’ British boozer as her theme, recreating pub motifs in crossstitch. I also spotted work with eco-friendly latex, decorated with repurposed copper wire from discarded electrical items. Embroiderers’ Guild tr ustees selected their 2024 Graduates at New Designers – to be revealed at the K&S Shows. I wasn’t able to visit the Festival of Quilts in August, but by all accounts it was an inspiring meeting of minds. Pictured left is Masquerade by Chitra Mandanna, the Visitor s’ Choice winner. For a different kind of ‘social stitch’, don’t forget seam collective’s (@seam_collective) Instagram challenge, #SeptTextileLove, with its range of prompts throughout September. Finally, keep checking @embroider y_mag on Instagram for the chance to win some top titles. Claire Waring EDITOR Embroidery magazine 34 10 46 embroidery Embroidery is published six times a year in January, March, May, July, September and November by Embroiderers’ Guild Enterprises Ltd, a wholly owned subsidiary of The Embroiderers’ Guild. The magazine was first published in 1932 and is read today by textile professionals and enthusiasts around the world. The Embroiderers’ Guild is a registered charity (No. 234239), which organises an annual programme of events and awards. The Guild’s Museum Collection of embroidered items is held at Bucks County Museum. EMBROIDERYMAGAZINE.CO.UK EDITOR Claire Waring 07769 397790 embroideryeditorial@ warnersgroup.co.uk DESIGNER Melanie Smith embroidery.mag.design@gmail.com PUBLISHER The Embroiderers’ Guild Bucks County Museum Church St, Aylesbury HP20 2QP embroiderersguild.com SALES Media-Shed Limited, 1st Floor, West Wing, Beater House, Turkey Mill, Ashford Road, Maidstone, Kent, ME14 5PP 020 3137 8582 EMBROIDERY 4 September October 2024 SUBSCRIPTIONS DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTIONS pocketmags.com/embroidery-magazine Single digital issue £6.99 Annual digital subscription £34.99 PRINT SUBSCRIPTIONS mymagazinesub.co.uk/embroidery Six monthly Direct Debit £18.75 Annual Direct Debit £36.99 Credit/Debit card annual payments UK £39.99. EU/ROW £54.99 PRINT PLUS ARCHIVE SUBSCRIPTIONS https://bit.ly/embroiderypd Annual Direct Debit UK £51.99 Credit/Debit card annual payments UK £54.99. EU/ROW £69.99 For renewals, back issues, change of address,or single print copies +44 (0)1778 392 468 embroidery@warnersgroup.co.uk DEADLINES ISSUE . . . . . . . . EDITORIAL . . .ADS Jan/Feb 25. . . . 14 Oct . . . . . . 29 Nov Mar/Apr . . . . . . 16 Dec . . . . . 3 Mar May/Jun . . . . . . 17 Feb. . . . . . 28 Mar Embroidery magazine ISSN 1477-3724 is published by Embroiderers’ Guild Enterprises Ltd, a wholly owned subsidiary of The Embroiderers’ Guild. Registered office: Bucks County Museum, Church St, Aylesbury HP20 2QP. Printer & distributor: Warners Midlands, Manor Lane, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9PH. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Embroidery does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or images. The Editor reserves the right to edit all contributions. The views expressed in Embroidery are not necessarily those of the Editor or The Embroiderers’ Guild.
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12 Take out a subscription to Embroidery magazine and get each issue delivered free to your door. See page 44 for our subscriber offer! front 07 EMBROIDERY LOVES As part of an art trail in remote churches, Lou Baker’s red knitted installation will breathe new life into Dore Abbey. 08 NEWS Some stories and events to take note of, including Dame Zandra’s new book. 09 OUT & ABOUT Take your pick of courses and activities that promise to excite and educate. regulars 10 FRESH TALENT Penelope Williams became an exhibiting artist later in life, but after her first show is eager to do more. 12 THE SEWING ROOM Set in a former whelk shed on a working quay, Debbie Lyddon’s studio offers inspiration in the raw. 18 OFFBEAT ARTIST Baiba Rieber’s work centres on exhibits at RSU Anatomy Museum, usually only seen by anatomists and surgeons. 20 Q&A: JEFFREY GIBSON Jeffrey Gibson is the first Indigenous American to have a solo show in the US Pavilion at the Venice Biennale. 52 MEET THE GROUP Scotland’s Edge group encompasses wide-ranging work and has made holding exhibitions a key goal. 38 14 10 features 14 MAKING WAVES Growing up in Exmouth, Alexandra Waylett developed a close coastal bond, with her current work anchored in life beneath the surf. 22 BLACK HISTORY MONTH: THE BLACK FEMALE GAZE Marcia Bennett-Male is developing her exhibition at Brixton Tate Library to be an intense experience for visitors. 26 BLACK SOULS LOST AT SEA Highlighting Liverpool’s involvement in the slave trade and the Zong massacre, Karen McLean’s dramatic show is set to fuel debate. 32 PREVIEW: THE 62 GROUP Housed in a 168-metre-long former spinning room at Salts Mill, in West Yorkshire, the 62 Group’s latest show is set to impress. 34 WELL-RED Moving from fashion designer to textile artist was a slow gestation for Rima Day, but one that is validated by her stunning work. 38 THE KNITTING & STITCHING SHOW: TURNING OVER A NEW LEAF Jessie Chorley has been working quietly in her studio eyrie, but is now ready to reveal her new work and new book at the K&S Show. 43 K&S SHOW HIGHLIGHTS From miniature robes to performance textile art. 44 CREATIVITY IN CRISIS Deena Beverley recounts the creation of her new book with Cas Holmes, a tale of finding creativity despite personal crisis. 46 THE LIBRARY’S ALL A FLUTTER Releasing moths into a university library... Vita Cochran really should know better. 49 SPIDER WOMAN Working under the pseudonym Aradne, the artist weaves an intricate web. 50 PRACTICAL MAGIC Anne Jackson’s fascination with witches began at Halloween in a childhood spent in America. 54 CELEBRATING WELSH QUILTS Jen Jones was an actress in New York when she fell in love with a Welshman. Her second love was to be the Welsh quilt. 57 A D-DAY MEMORIAL How the Overlord Embroidery was made. 20 c o n t e nt s S E P T E M B E R O C T O B E R 2 0 2 4 22 cover story 28 EMBROIDERY VANDAL Louise Saxton cuts and pins her enviable needlework stash to create striking artwork. E m b r oi d e r y V ol u m e 7 5 S E P T E M B E R O C T O B E R 2 0 2 4 THE TEXTILE ART MAGAZINE embroidery Louise Saxton EMBROIDERYVANDAL Black History MonthMarcia Bennett -Male ON THE COVER: Wall Garden (detail) 2016. Reclaimed needlework, lace-pins, nylon tulle . Collection of Town Hall Galler y, Hawthorn, Victoria, Australia .99 £6 UK WITCHTRIALSANNE JACKSON EMB SEPT 24 cover choice.indd 1 EMB SEPT 24 cover choice.indd 1 reviews 17 TAKE 5 BOOKS Previews of some thought-provoking titles released for autumn 58 EXHIBITIONS Thread Count, Saxmundham Stories in Stitch, The Bowes Museum 60 WHAT’S ON A look at the months ahead and a story of hands reaching across the water JESSIE CHORLEYNEW WORK NEW BOOK MAKING AS LEARNINGTHE 62 GROUP SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2024 K&S Sh w TICKETOFFER! KICKSTART AUTUMN AT THE KNITTING & STITCHING SHOW 7 PAGES OF COVERAGE UNDER THE SEA ALEXANDRA WAYLETT U K £ 6. 9 9 September October 2024 EMBROIDERY 5 5

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FROM THE EDITOR

■ ONCE THE GRAND old oak I can see from my office becomes even the tiniest bit tinged with gold, my nesting instincts return and I long for the quiet, contemplative activities of knitting, stitching and getting lost in a good book. It’s no surprise then that the run up to (whisper it) Christmas is a key period for book launches and a fr uitful time for the latest stitch titles. LOUISE SAXTON cut & pinned is a new monograph from the ar tist, aka The Embroider y Vandal, so-called because she ‘cuts and pins’ her enviable needlework stash to form reinterpretations of historical paintings. Louise seeks to raise the status of the mostly anonymous makers responsible for her embroider y collection, often tagged merely ‘women’s work’. On page 28 you’ll find her stunning Count Raggi’s bird of paradise (after Ellis Rowan’s work of 1917).This is the national bird of Papua New Guinea, where it is common – which is hard to imagine. Louise’s work also star s on our cover. Meanwhile, Cas Holmes and Deena Bever ley have created Soulful Stitch, a title about finding creativity in times of crisis. Jessie Chorley’s Journal with Thread is her fir st book with a publisher, indie craft specialist David and Charles. Both will be launched at the Knitting and Stitching Show, London in October. The K&S Show in London, Belfast and Harrogate is one of the most exciting events for exhibitions, workshops and ‘the annual shop’ and ‘puts the social into stitching’ as a meet-up destination for embroiderers from all over the UK. We reveal some highlights on page 43, where you’ll also find a ticket offer. Another inspiring date in the stitch calendar is New Designers in London, back in May, the annual showcase of the UK’s innovative emerging design talent. Here, I gained a real sense of the graduates’ excitement for the future. One graduate based her work on free association of ideas while listening to music with quir ky results: a sumo wrestler tackling a Chinese dragon. Another took the good ol’ British boozer as her theme, recreating pub motifs in crossstitch. I also spotted work with eco-friendly latex, decorated with repurposed copper wire from discarded electrical items. Embroiderers’ Guild tr ustees selected their 2024 Graduates at New Designers – to be revealed at the K&S Shows.

I wasn’t able to visit the Festival of Quilts in August, but by all accounts it was an inspiring meeting of minds. Pictured left is Masquerade by Chitra Mandanna, the Visitor s’ Choice winner.

For a different kind of ‘social stitch’, don’t forget seam collective’s (@seam_collective) Instagram challenge, #SeptTextileLove, with its range of prompts throughout September.

Finally, keep checking @embroider y_mag on

Instagram for the chance to win some top titles.

Claire Waring

EDITOR Embroidery magazine

34

10

46

embroidery

Embroidery is published six times a year in January, March, May, July, September and November by Embroiderers’ Guild Enterprises Ltd, a wholly owned subsidiary of The Embroiderers’ Guild. The magazine was first published in 1932 and is read today by textile professionals and enthusiasts around the world. The Embroiderers’ Guild is a registered charity (No. 234239), which organises an annual programme of events and awards. The Guild’s Museum Collection of embroidered items is held at Bucks County Museum.

EMBROIDERYMAGAZINE.CO.UK

EDITOR Claire Waring 07769 397790 embroideryeditorial@ warnersgroup.co.uk DESIGNER Melanie Smith embroidery.mag.design@gmail.com PUBLISHER The Embroiderers’ Guild Bucks County Museum Church St, Aylesbury HP20 2QP embroiderersguild.com SALES Media-Shed Limited, 1st Floor, West Wing, Beater House, Turkey Mill, Ashford Road, Maidstone, Kent, ME14 5PP 020 3137 8582

EMBROIDERY 4

September October 2024

SUBSCRIPTIONS DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTIONS pocketmags.com/embroidery-magazine Single digital issue £6.99 Annual digital subscription £34.99 PRINT SUBSCRIPTIONS mymagazinesub.co.uk/embroidery Six monthly Direct Debit £18.75 Annual Direct Debit £36.99 Credit/Debit card annual payments UK £39.99. EU/ROW £54.99 PRINT PLUS ARCHIVE SUBSCRIPTIONS https://bit.ly/embroiderypd Annual Direct Debit UK £51.99 Credit/Debit card annual payments UK £54.99. EU/ROW £69.99 For renewals, back issues, change of address,or single print copies +44 (0)1778 392 468 embroidery@warnersgroup.co.uk

DEADLINES ISSUE . . . . . . . . EDITORIAL . . .ADS Jan/Feb 25. . . . 14 Oct . . . . . . 29 Nov Mar/Apr . . . . . . 16 Dec . . . . . 3 Mar May/Jun . . . . . . 17 Feb. . . . . . 28 Mar

Embroidery magazine ISSN 1477-3724 is published by Embroiderers’ Guild Enterprises Ltd, a wholly owned subsidiary of The Embroiderers’ Guild. Registered office: Bucks County Museum, Church St, Aylesbury HP20 2QP. Printer & distributor: Warners Midlands, Manor Lane, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9PH. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Embroidery does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or images. The Editor reserves the right to edit all contributions. The views expressed in Embroidery are not necessarily those of the Editor or The Embroiderers’ Guild.

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