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CHECK IN 16 Viewfinder Witness ancient traditions in the Northern Territory, take a US road trip, and travel for a reason 24 Just Back From… How the villages of the Zagori region – Greece’s newest World Heritage site – stayed hidden for generations; plus, your letters on great guides and Arctic rules 33 Your Photos You send us your top travel shots

JOURNAL 39 Grapevine All the latest travel titbits, openings, stays and news to keep you in the loop 45 Set-Jetting There’s nostalgia in the air with the release of Gladiator 2, as we visit its epic set locations

49 Armchair Travel Travel books and podcasts to give you an autumnal boost 54 World Food Why breakfast in Shanghai is a meal worth rising early for 61 Sustainable Travel We check our privilege and ponder the impact of our travels 67 Health How to keep your eyes in shape when you hit the road 68 Departures We pick 20 new expedition voyages that put the adventure back into cruising 83 Dream Sleep: Our Habitas Ras Abrouq Head to the deep west of Qatar for a remote coastal escape 86 WanderSleeps: Malta Discover the stays that shine a light on Malta’s incredible history

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