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Photo: Francesco Valentino for Michiko Koshino Mel Y ates gorgeous knitting supplies Exquisite yarns Haberdashery Patterns Books Quirky knit homeware, accessories and objects 41 Cross Street, Islington, London N1 2BB 020 7288 1160 wwwwww..lloooopp..ggbb..ccoomm Selvedge Magazine Editorial Office PO Box 40038 N6 5UW editor@selvedge.org www.selvedge.org T: 020 8341 9721 Publisher: Selvedge Ltd Editor: Polly Leonard, editor@selvedge.org Deputy Editor: Elizabeth Smith, subeditor@selvedge.org Marketing Manager: Sabrina Iken, marketing@selvedge.org Art Director: Helena Thomas Designer: Kate Karko, images@selvedge.org News Editor: Clare Lewis, images@selvedge.org Copy Editor: Peter Shaw, copy@selvedge.org e-Marketing Manager: Clare De Lotbiniere, e-marketing@selvedge.org Subscriptions Manager: Ros Earl, subscriptions@selvedge.org Advertising Manager: Simona Ciabatti, advertising@selvedge.org US Marketing Representative: Laura Shirreff Marketing Assisant: Jessica Hellen, subscriptions@selvedge.org Contributing Editors: Jessica Hemmings •Anne Morrell • Michael Brennand-Wood • Amy de la Haye • Karen Nicol • Philip Hughes •Catherine Harper •Elana Dickson. Selvedge (ISSN: 1742-254X) is published six times a year by Selvedge Ltd. Registered Office 14 Milton Park, Highgate, London, N6 5QA. Copyright © Selvedge Ltd 2004. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any material submit ted. The editor’s decision on all printed material is final. The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the Selvedge magazine, Selvedge Ltd or the editor. Unsolicited material will be con sidered but cannot be returned. Printing: St Ives Roche Ltd UK and St Ives Cleveland Ohio Ltd USA. Paper: Hello Silk Board 200g, Hello Matt 100g, Challenger Offset 100g. Colour Origination: PH Media. Web Design: datadial. Distribution: Mercury International Ltd. Periodicals Postage Paid at Rahway NJ. Postmaster send address corrections to Selvedge Magazine, C/O Mercury Airfreight International Ltd, 365 Blair Road, Avenel, New Jersey 07001. Subscription rates for one year (6 issues): Paper Magazine, UK £40.00; Europe €75.00; USA $85.00; rest of world £70.00

Contents INDULGEtextiles to buy, collect or simply admire. 15Christmas cheer Suggestions for your true love. 79 Selvedge Object The thought counts even more with gifts like this... INDUSTRYfrom craft to commerce. 32 Brick by Brick The company Riccardo Mantero built. 34 Life partners Deborah Milner’s ecouture and Aveda’s eco-nomics. 40 Overnight sensation Karen Nicol’s bespoke embroidery. 56 Finnish product The strangely attractive designs of Klaus Haapaniemi. 70Superstructure Talented weavers that travel beneath the surface. ANECDOTEtextiles that touch our lives. 12 Goodwill to all comrades Politically correct winter celebrations in Russia. 49And so to bed A duvet was not good enough for a 16th century duchess. CONCEPTtextiles in fine art. 26 Network In Echo, Susie MacMurry has found a clear line. ATTIRE critical reporting of fashion trends. 38 Shaken and stirred The mixed fortunes of the cocktail frock. 46 Hyper decorated An extract from a new book, Embroidery: Italian Fashion. 68 Prada: perfect intellect The brains behind the beauty. COHABIT stunning interiors beautifully photographed. 62 The allure of Italian silksThe renaissance cult of the magnificent. 77 Thrill of the chaseThe West Dean Tapestry Studio’s epic project. GLOBALtravel destinations and ethnographic textiles. 16 The Six SwansA traditional fairy tale told in a distinctly Selvedge style. 52 Culture is served Russian ikat patterned plates. 58 Under wraps Russia was smothered in sumptuous layers for centuries. 3 inform INFORMthe latest news, reviews and exhibition listings. 04bias / contributors 07 news Trends and essential ideas 84read The Modernist Textiles Soviet Textiles Clothing Culture Reading List 86international listings Exhibitions, fairs and events 88view Love & War Gossamer Wings Relationships On the Edge – Fray Pockets of History New Embroidery 93coming next The Wellbeing issue: Textiles for your mind, body and soul 95stockists 80subscription offers A pretty Hannah’s House embroidered wooden tree decoration for every new subscriber and renewal! A subscription to Selvedge makes the perfect holiday gift. Keep your friends and family in the loop... selvedge.org

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Contents

INDULGEtextiles to buy, collect or simply admire. 15Christmas cheer Suggestions for your true love.

79 Selvedge Object The thought counts even more with gifts like this...

INDUSTRYfrom craft to commerce. 32 Brick by Brick The company Riccardo Mantero built. 34 Life partners Deborah Milner’s ecouture and Aveda’s eco-nomics.

40 Overnight sensation Karen Nicol’s bespoke embroidery. 56 Finnish product The strangely attractive designs of Klaus Haapaniemi. 70Superstructure Talented weavers that travel beneath the surface.

ANECDOTEtextiles that touch our lives. 12 Goodwill to all comrades Politically correct winter celebrations in Russia. 49And so to bed A duvet was not good enough for a 16th century duchess.

CONCEPTtextiles in fine art. 26 Network In Echo, Susie MacMurry has found a clear line.

ATTIRE critical reporting of fashion trends. 38 Shaken and stirred The mixed fortunes of the cocktail frock.

46 Hyper decorated An extract from a new book, Embroidery: Italian Fashion. 68 Prada: perfect intellect The brains behind the beauty.

COHABIT stunning interiors beautifully photographed. 62 The allure of Italian silksThe renaissance cult of the magnificent.

77 Thrill of the chaseThe West Dean Tapestry Studio’s epic project.

GLOBALtravel destinations and ethnographic textiles. 16 The Six SwansA traditional fairy tale told in a distinctly Selvedge style. 52 Culture is served Russian ikat patterned plates.

58 Under wraps Russia was smothered in sumptuous layers for centuries.

3

inform

INFORMthe latest news, reviews and exhibition listings.

04bias / contributors 07 news Trends and essential ideas 84read The Modernist Textiles Soviet Textiles Clothing Culture Reading List 86international listings Exhibitions, fairs and events

88view Love & War Gossamer Wings Relationships On the Edge – Fray Pockets of History New Embroidery 93coming next The Wellbeing issue: Textiles for your mind, body and soul

95stockists 80subscription offers A pretty Hannah’s House embroidered wooden tree decoration for every new subscriber and renewal! A subscription to Selvedge makes the perfect holiday gift. Keep your friends and family in the loop...

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