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26 The creative Name Kirsten Hecktermann Job Title Textile creator and consultant Qualifications Trained chef, retrained in textiles through short courses and research. Career History Defeat into triumph – it’s a standard plot device and a key element in the story of Kirsten Hecktermann’s career. Brought up in Kenya, questions of finance and perhaps the desire to thwart familial expectatations meant Kirsten chose catering college over university. Once qualified she applied for a catering job on the set of “Out of Africa” only to be told “women were not employed to cook, it was men only”. She left the office feeling, to put it politely, a little peeved and with no idea what, or more specifically who, was just around the corner. She literally walked into Wardrobe Master Kenny Crouch who, with the kind offhand inquiry that can change a whole life, asked her if she could sew. The films Kirsten worked on over the next 10 years give an idea of the impact of that chance meeting: Mission Impossible, Carrington and Road to Wellville. Returning to England Kirsten supplemented her existing knowledge with “hours and hours in Chelsea Library”. The research aspect of life in a costume department was fascinating – the learning curve almost vertical – but on-set politics and the sheer extravagance of the industry meant Kirsten decided to shift her focus. Her sister Joan, who just happened to work at World of Interiors, called on Kirsten’s fine sewing skills to help on photoshoots. Concepts were diverse and Kirsten relished the chance to turn her hand to the creation of anything from a Napoleonic tent to a Flamenco dress. Around the same time she began designing cushions and textiles. Nurturing her own business is the latest stage in Kirsten’s career evolution. It’s founded on her belief that adaptability and a willingness to keep learning are essential – staying still is clearly not an option. Alternative design paths Stylist, trend forecaster, interior or fashion designer, colourist, illustrator, photographer selvedge.org industry Bill Batten

27 The academic Name Jessica Hemmings Job Title Textile Critic and Writer / Programme Leader of Textiles, Winchester School of Art Qualifications Ph.D. Modern Lit, University of Edinburgh; MA Comparative Literature, School of Oriental and African Studies, University of London; BFA (Honors) Textile Design, Rhode Island School of Design Career History Riding horses rather than reading books was how Jessica Hemmings recalls spending her formative years, she was, she insists, a “terrible student” – university was certainly not on the agenda. What changed her mind she doesn’t reveal, but with a Ph.D under her belt and 10 solid years in education behind her it was clearly a seismic shift in atittude. An abiding love of textiles explains her decision to study textile design, but Hemmings knew her route would be different from her fellow students –“I knew I was not going to use textiles in the way they would”. As one by one they left to pursue careers Hemmings put her own skills into practice, “I learnt to write by weaving” she states enigmatically before explaining that for her the act of weaving correlates to the process of structuring an article. An MA and Ph.D followed in swift succession and the decision to avoid a break was a deliberate one; “everyone I knew who took time out found it almost impossible to return, life gets in the way... you get used to earning money. I learned to live without, but as your friends climb their own career ladders you do experience doubts,” Hemmings managed to hold her nerve, “ploughing” through her Ph.D – an “endless, enormous, intimidating task” making use of the drive and determination which are, she agrees, her greatest strengths. The rewards of a career in academia? “Watching students develop, reaching an audience or gaining exposure for an unknown artist: there is satisfaction in all these things.” Alternative academic paths Museum curator, conservator, archivist, editor, author, journalist, teacher industry selvedge.org Dave Gibbons

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The creative

Name Kirsten Hecktermann Job Title Textile creator and consultant Qualifications Trained chef, retrained in textiles through short courses and research. Career History Defeat into triumph – it’s a standard plot device and a key element in the story of Kirsten Hecktermann’s career. Brought up in Kenya, questions of finance and perhaps the desire to thwart familial expectatations meant Kirsten chose catering college over university. Once qualified she applied for a catering job on the set of “Out of Africa” only to be told “women were not employed to cook, it was men only”. She left the office feeling, to put it politely, a little peeved and with no idea what, or more specifically who, was just around the corner. She literally walked into Wardrobe Master Kenny Crouch who, with the kind offhand inquiry that can change a whole life, asked her if she could sew. The films Kirsten worked on over the next 10 years give an idea of the impact of that chance meeting: Mission Impossible, Carrington and Road to Wellville. Returning to England Kirsten supplemented her existing knowledge with “hours and hours in Chelsea Library”. The research aspect of life in a costume department was fascinating – the learning curve almost vertical – but on-set politics and the sheer extravagance of the industry meant Kirsten decided to shift her focus. Her sister Joan, who just happened to work at World of Interiors, called on Kirsten’s fine sewing skills to help on photoshoots. Concepts were diverse and Kirsten relished the chance to turn her hand to the creation of anything from a Napoleonic tent to a Flamenco dress. Around the same time she began designing cushions and textiles. Nurturing her own business is the latest stage in Kirsten’s career evolution. It’s founded on her belief that adaptability and a willingness to keep learning are essential – staying still is clearly not an option. Alternative design paths Stylist, trend forecaster, interior or fashion designer, colourist, illustrator, photographer

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