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CONTENTS INDULGE textiles to buy, collect or simply admire 11 ENERGY BOARD Inspired by eclectic pattern and print Selvedge founder Polly Leonard picks bold pieces for your home and wardrobe CONCEPT textiles in fine art 34 THAT’S ALL FOLK Martin Myrone argues that British Folk art at Tate Britain shows the many faces of creative practice and will broaden our ideas of art 46 MARK MAKING James Russell examines the career and influence of Peggy Angus This summer the Towner Gallery in Eastbourne will host the first major exhibition devoted to her life and work INDUSTRY from craft to commerce 16 ALL THE WORLD’S A STAGE Circus life in Bangladesh Photographer Probal Rashid was welcomed into the big top but discovered a way of life under threat 26 WALKING ON SUNSHINE Summer sandals made from ‘the cloth of the sun’ Ptolemy Mann seeks out the fabric company behind the classic espadrille GLOBAL textiles from around the world 20 KING OF THE SWINGERS Hammocks woven in Cabo de la Vela Images by Nelson Sepulveda and Paris based photographer Mark Eden Schooley. Written by Jessica Hemmings 51 FACING THE PAST Arianna E. Funk unwraps the folk inspired work of Danish photographer Trine Søndergaard and finds more layers than she expected 69 COLOUR WHEEL Hilary Simon takes us on a whirlwind tour of Mexican textiles See MADE IN MEXICO The Rebozo in Art, Culture & Fashion until 31 August at the Fashion and Textile Museum COHABIT stunning interiors beautifully photographed 57 CHIP OFF THE OLD Writer, curator and design historian Lesley Jackson looks at block printed wallpaper – and the designers determined to keep the technique alive 64 HOLD YOUR HORSES The alternative universe of Parisienne artist Frédérique Morrel is populated by needlework creatures and products of her vivid imagination Photographed by Joanna Maclennan ANECDOTE textiles that touch our lives 38 MISS RACHEL’S LEGACY Gawthorpe Textile Collection The woman behind this internationally renowned collection of textiles located in the heart of Pennine Lancashire 40 ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER We profile three women committed to global change through crafts and textiles The Ricefield Collective, Threads of Life and Nest 75 GUIDING HAND Karima Cammell’s captivating collection of vintage paper toys and theatres give her (and customers at her boutique, Castle in the Air) the chance to be child-like once more 77 CANVAS With the cost of higher education climbing ever higher Selvedge Editor Beth Smith wonders exactly what your money can buy... P14/15 P16/17 P20/21 P30/31 A L L THE WORLD’S A S TAGE Circus life in Bangladesh SELVEDGE 4 Art historians can be quite protective of the ‘Western canon’ and according to them it definitely doesn’t include the kind you fire a man out of. But there have always been those who see the beauty in everyday activities and decoration. Associate Scholar at The Courtauld Institute of Art, Thomas Balfe, explains that although it “requires a stretch of the imagination for most”, folk art also encompasses “contextspecific performances (morris-dancing, story-telling) and activities so ephemeral or routine –– traditional jam making, for example”. Photographer Probal Rashid, who is fascinated by the long history of traditional circus in Bangladesh, would probably agree with Balfe and has spent months capturing this enduring way of life. Eight large circus troupes perform around the country and most troupe members followed their family into the profession hereditarily or have worked in the circus since childhood. One, “The Bulbul Circus” from Bagura district of Bangladesh, allowed Rashid to follow daily life in the big top. Bright stripes, sequined costumes and spectacular acts make the circus a perennial source 4
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P46/47 P54/55 P66/67 78 UGLY ON PURPOSE Kim Werker on demystifying the enemy An edited extract from the new book Craftivism: The Art of Craft and Activism edited by Betsy Greer 96 FABRIC SWATCH No.11: Ric Rac Sarah Jane Downing rediscovers this simple, pretty but sometimes neglected trimming Illustrated by Molly Goddard ATTIRE critical reporting of fashion trends 14 LIGHT THE FUSE In fashion opposites attract but blends are beautiful Kate Cavendish looks at designers who draw on a diverse array of influences 31 TIME TRAVEL Viennese fashion designer Susanne Bisovsky refuses to follow trends preferring to take her inspiration from folk dress and traditional techniques Interviewed by Imelda Rohrbacher EVENTS 6 THE SELVEDGE WINTER FAIR Christmas shopping with a difference at The Chelsea Old Town Hall. Add 31 October-1 November to your diaries and we’ll look forward to seeing you there... WIN 80 PRIZES THIS ISSUE A complete decorating kit from The Painted House, worth £54, including a choice of pattern roller, fabric applicator and wall applicator. Five copies of Peggy Angus, Designer, Teacher, Painter, worth £25 each and a decadent silk and velvet tasseled cushion, worth £250, from Julia Brendel INFORM the latest news, reviews and exhibition listings 03 BIAS /CONTRIBUTORS A letter from the founder and comments from our contributors 07 NEWS Re Found Objects, Gudrun Sjödén’s 40th anniversary, Yan Tan Tethera: Songs of Textile folk, Bryony Jennings, Louise Body’s paper tiles, Ceramicist Ruan Hoffmann 09 NEEDLE’S EYE Shisha Stitch 80 SUBSCRIPTION OFFERS Karima Cammell from Castle in the Air is offering every new subscriber or renewal a kit with beautiful reprints of four beautiful reprints of original Jumping Jack toys from Pellerin's Imagerie D'Epinal, worth $60. 84 LISTINGS Exhibitions, fairs and events taking place around the world in August and September 82 BACK ISSUES Complete your Selvedge collection while you still can! Many issues now sold out or have limited stock 86 READ Chintz Quilts From the Poos Collection reviewed by Dr Sue Marks, Enid Marx: Design reviewed by Cameron Short 88 VIEW Charles James: Beyond Fashion reviewed by Marie O’Mahony, Waterweavers: The River in Columbian Visual and Material Culture reviewed by Marie O’Mahony, When Worlds Collide: Michael Brennand-Wood by Dr Nicola Donovan 95 COMING NEXT The Knit Issue: Texture takes over. In the 60th Issue of Selvedge Freddie Robins revisits the knitting revival ten years on, Sandy Black looks at catwalk knits, we visit Shetland Wool Week and much more P72/73 SELVEDGE ('selnid3 ) n. 1. finished di fferently 2. the non-fraying edge of a length of woven fabric. [: from SELF + EDGE] SELVEDGE 5

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CONTENTS

INDULGE textiles to buy, collect or simply admire 11 ENERGY BOARD Inspired by eclectic pattern and print Selvedge founder Polly Leonard picks bold pieces for your home and wardrobe

CONCEPT textiles in fine art 34 THAT’S ALL FOLK Martin Myrone argues that British Folk art at Tate Britain shows the many faces of creative practice and will broaden our ideas of art 46 MARK MAKING James Russell examines the career and influence of Peggy Angus This summer the Towner Gallery in Eastbourne will host the first major exhibition devoted to her life and work

INDUSTRY from craft to commerce 16 ALL THE WORLD’S A STAGE Circus life in Bangladesh Photographer Probal Rashid was welcomed into the big top but discovered a way of life under threat 26 WALKING ON SUNSHINE Summer sandals made from ‘the cloth of the sun’ Ptolemy Mann seeks out the fabric company behind the classic espadrille

GLOBAL textiles from around the world 20 KING OF THE SWINGERS Hammocks woven in Cabo de la Vela Images by Nelson Sepulveda and Paris based photographer Mark Eden Schooley. Written by Jessica Hemmings 51 FACING THE PAST Arianna E. Funk unwraps the folk inspired work of Danish photographer Trine Søndergaard and finds more layers than she expected 69 COLOUR WHEEL Hilary Simon takes us on a whirlwind tour of Mexican textiles See MADE IN MEXICO The Rebozo in Art, Culture & Fashion until 31 August at the Fashion and Textile Museum

COHABIT stunning interiors beautifully photographed 57 CHIP OFF THE OLD Writer, curator and design historian Lesley Jackson looks at block printed wallpaper – and the designers determined to keep the technique alive 64 HOLD YOUR HORSES The alternative universe of Parisienne artist Frédérique Morrel is populated by needlework creatures and products of her vivid imagination Photographed by Joanna Maclennan

ANECDOTE textiles that touch our lives 38 MISS RACHEL’S LEGACY Gawthorpe Textile Collection The woman behind this internationally renowned collection of textiles located in the heart of Pennine Lancashire 40 ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER We profile three women committed to global change through crafts and textiles The Ricefield Collective, Threads of Life and Nest 75 GUIDING HAND Karima Cammell’s captivating collection of vintage paper toys and theatres give her (and customers at her boutique, Castle in the Air) the chance to be child-like once more 77 CANVAS With the cost of higher education climbing ever higher Selvedge Editor Beth Smith wonders exactly what your money can buy...

P14/15

P16/17

P20/21

P30/31

A L L THE WORLD’S A S TAGE

Circus life in Bangladesh

SELVEDGE 4

Art historians can be quite protective of the ‘Western canon’ and according to them it definitely doesn’t include the kind you fire a man out of. But there have always been those who see the beauty in everyday activities and decoration. Associate Scholar at The Courtauld Institute of Art, Thomas Balfe, explains that although it “requires a stretch of the imagination for most”, folk art also encompasses “contextspecific performances (morris-dancing, story-telling) and activities so ephemeral or routine –– traditional jam making, for example”.

Photographer Probal Rashid, who is fascinated by the long history of traditional circus in Bangladesh, would probably agree with Balfe and has spent months capturing this enduring way of life. Eight large circus troupes perform around the country and most troupe members followed their family into the profession hereditarily or have worked in the circus since childhood. One, “The Bulbul Circus” from Bagura district of Bangladesh, allowed Rashid to follow daily life in the big top.

Bright stripes, sequined costumes and spectacular acts make the circus a perennial source 4

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