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Print works BRIGITTE SINGH LIVES AND WORKS IN IMPRESSIVE SURROUNDINGS

Nestled in Narad ka Bagh, on the outskirts of the rose pink city of Jaipur, is the home of Brigitte Singh. Hidden behind bougainvillea this haveli-style house is the perfect refuge for this gifted textile designer.

03 KarenElson. D ollyand'ScissorsBoy' . Fitzrovia,London,2008,British Vogue.04GuinevereVanSeenus.GlenhamHall,Suffolk,England,2006,British Vogue.

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cohabit

Photography by Claire Richardson

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On a summer's day, when the streets are packed with gallery-goers, it’s hard to imagine that this was the lonely spot where the Pilgrims first set foot.

They sailed on, but at the end of the 19th century, another colony was

established in this one-time fishing village. Impressionist painter Charles

Hawthorne came from New York, and was captivated by the extraordinary light

that gilds all it touches. He formed the Cape Cod School of Art and by 1916 there were six art schools. In the 30s, the Modernists appeared, Franz Kline and Mark Rothko were at work; and Jackson Pollock held his first exhibition of abstract expressionism. In 1961 the natural beauty of the area, which had drawn these artists, was permanantly protected by a bill signed by President Kennedy which forbade development along a 30 mile stretch of the Atlantic Coast. Today the Provincetown Art Museum offers courses and the Provincetown

Art Guide will help you find the galleries tucked among the weathered salt box

cottages – the Berta Walker gallery often features artists working in fibre. There

are over 40 galleries to see; to keep your energy up, buy an ice cream cone

from Lewis Bros on Commercial Street – black raspberry or peppermint stick are the first of many flavours. www.provincetown.com

The old village of St Ivesin Cornwall is a place of contrast, at once as quaint

as the cobblestones that pave the streets, and as contemporary as Tate's 1993

building that is wrapped in glass for a wall to wall sea view from its perch on the hill. Tate's St Ives outpost capped the long artistic tradition here, from the early 19th century when Turner was attracted by the dramatic effects of sea and sky. In the 1880s a new artistic generation arrived seeking the simple life in the old fishing town. They were dubbed the Newlyn school, painters like Stanhope Forbes and Frank Branley who followed the Impressionists' credo, to observe real life, and to work outdoors, en plein air. The last wave of artistic settlement came in the 20th century, when the modernists discovered the inspirations of St Ives, a group

that included Ben Nicholson and sculptor Barbara Hepworth, whose studio and

sculpture-studded garden are open to visitors.

Art remains the focus of a town that once lived on the fishing fleet. The lanes are lined with shops of all qualities – it may seem all too easy to find a seagull made from a rock, for instance, but look a little farther and discover a thriving community of artists in their studios and galleries working in a broad range of media and method. Finish the day with a stroll along the Coastal Walk, then find a restaurant that buys from the fishing fleet that provided so many artists their subject, and travellers their dinner. www.stives-cornwall.co.uk

The short voyage from Vancouver to Salt Spring Island offers natural beauty on all sides, bathed in light reflected off the water, the hillsides a maze of greens, from pine

to grasslands, sail boats darting along the shore. Salt Spring Island is a blend of these

beauties, with an atmosphere that has drawn visitors and settlers for many years. It has

evolved as a haven for those seeking an independent life to pursue their dreams,

whether it's an ecologically correct farm, or baking the best ever banana bread, or capturing nature's greens and blues in a woven tapestry. All this comes together each Saturday in the town of Ganges where the waterfront Centennial Park blooms with 150 locals offering their wears for sale. Hundreds wander among the booths, where artists and artisans, bakers and tie-dyers, farmers and chutney-makers unpack their goods from eight in the morning, “Make it, bake it or grow it” is the rule.

Artists are scattered throughout the island, with open studios on many days; get

a Studio Tour map, and follow the sheep-shaped signs. ArtCraft offers a year round

juried display of the best at the historic Mahon Hall gallery in Ganges. Food here is

an art in itself; with so many farms on the 70 acre island, the raw ingredients are first rate. And there is the island itself to explore. www.saltspringisland.org

Salt Spring Island evolved as a haven for those seeking an independent life...

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global

Just outside Melbourne, in the suburb of Eltham, stands what seems to be a

small European village, a collection of roofs, turrets and half-timbers. The

dozen buildings resemble rural France but their origins lie in the Australian artist and architect Justus Jorgensen whose first trip to Europe left him with an accomplished painting style and a longing to recapture what he had seen. Jorgensen was a leader of a bohemian artistic set. There were artists living in Eltham, and he was determined to build here. With grand ideas and a small budget, he turned to traditional Australian building methods, like mud bricks, and scrounged stone and timber from buildings knocked down in Melbourne's push to be modern. He wanted to create a colony of artists

who would work together, in an atmosphere of tranquility and beauty.

Students and friends rallied to the challenge, and in a few years of hands

on labour – students carved the corbels round the windows – produced this idyllic 12 acre retreat, with a soaring Great Hall at its centre. Artists still have studios here and the Great Hall remains the focus for exhibitions, courses and music festivals. The garden paths and fountains, the sound of splashing water and the wind in the eucalyptus interrupted by the peacocks' squawk, continue their gentle inspiration for anyone who visits. www.montsalvat.com.au

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Roses without thorns SILK FLOWERS FROM THE LEGERON WORKSHOP IN PARIS

Bruno Legeron's workshop in the centre of Paris appears, at first sight, to be a florist's paradise: each exquisite bloom is an unblemished example of floral perfection, immune to withering or fading, petal drop or leaf fall. For these flowers are destined to adorn the creations of the world's leading haute couturiers and fashion designers and are handmade, in silk, following

methods that have scarcely changed in 200 years.

Legeron, now 46, has been working here since he

was a boy and learned the art at his mother's knee. She acquired her skill from her own mother, who had been taught by her father – the founder of the family business. “We use almost exactly the same tools and methods that my great-grandfather used,” says Legeron, with pride. “And I make our own paints from pigment and alcohols, just as he would have done.” A dozen skilled employees and one or two trainees now

work beside Legeron in the busy workshop. “I used to

come here everyday after school,” he recalls. “It was a

magical environment for a child – silks, flowers and feathers in every colour imaginable filled the rooms and the skill of the artisans was mesmerising.

Here he learned to work with silks and a variety of other fabrics according to the client's wishes. The first step in the process is to stiffen the material, using starch or a similar agent. When dry, the fabric is cut into petals and leaves, following any one of the thousands of patterns, which echo the minute variations that nature imposes upon her own creations. Each shape is

then painted with meticulous observation of the natural

distribution of pigment within each part of a flower.

Hundreds of drawers, lining the walls, hold the resulting components, which await the composer's skill with thread and glue to assemble them into roses, lilies, peonies or indeed, the most far fetched and exotic of 'fantasy flowers', the likes of which would send Linnaeus spinning in his grave. “I am not a botanist!” laughs Legeron, “This is art, not nature!” But whether destined for Dior or Courrèèges, Cardin or Galliano, each

silk bloom is an individual creation; for in Legeron's

workshop, just as in the natural world you will never

find the same flower twice.•••Kirsty Fergusson Bruno Legeron, 20 rue des Petits Champs, Paris 75002 France, T: +3314296 9489, www.legeron.com

äR col la boration wi th Legeron

Teruyuki Y oshimura, © HUG O Wä

Marie Jose Jarry

Special occasion

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Join us on a private tour of VV Rouleaux’s treasure filled ‘trade vaults’ and take part in a floral trimming masterclass. The names VV Rouleaux and Annabel Lewis are synonymous with fine ribbons and gorgeous trimmings so

we are delighted to offer our readers the chance to take

part in this special event. Each guest will complete a ribbon

based project and hear Annabel Lewis’ decorating tips and

suggestions. Our masterclass will be followed by a glimpse

of the thousands of ribbons, trimmings, flowers, feathers, beads, braids, tassels, vintage bridal headdresses and veils, and other irresistible things in Annabel’s vaults. Guests will have an opportunity to buy at a special discounted price and the afternoon will

end with tea, cakes and

the chance to chat with

others who share your

passion for passementerie.

Established in 1990 VV Rouleaux has grown from a niche shop in Parsons Green to the most creative ribbon company in Europe. Annabel has

sourced styles of ribbons

never seen in this country

before, from Japanese

organdy to French wire-edged taffetas. Her experience as a

florist taught her that variety and choice were the key to tempting people to return to ribbon “to sell one begonia you should have a display of five begonias, and in a whole range of sizes and colours” explains Annabel. This wide selection coupled with her talent for colour, texture and attractive display made ribbons daring and desirable once more. ••• Selvedge Special Occasion, Saturday 6 September 2-5, VV Rouleaux Vaults, 6 Tun Yard, Peardon Street, London SW8,

Nearest train station Wandsworth Road, South London Line

from London Bridge, £30 (tea included), numbers are limited to book call T: 020 8341 0721, assistant@selvedge.org, www.selvedge.org, www.vvrouleaux.com

Claire Richardsom

industry

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In a country where the quality of light gives intensity to colours and motifs, the closed gardens and abandoned palaces of Tangier are are the perfect backdrop for a display of excess pattern. Whether straight-as-stems stripes or overdoses of roses, mixing the control of stripes with an explosion of florals creates a dense, fragrant atmoshere. This fashion hybrid combines colour-woven stripes and checks with a variety of floral techniques – from print to

jacquard, devore to embroidery – in a series of unisex

forms borrowed from traditional North African tailoring,

such as djellabahs and caftans. Layering several techniques on one fabric adds interest to these forms, in the same way layers of clothing bring visual richness to an ensemble. In the home as well as in the wardrobe inspiration can be taken from flowers, stripes, composing bouquets of contrasting colours and lines that form a heavenly whole, like the man-made structures and natural meanderings of a garden.

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01 Djellabah, a loose, hooded garment with full sleeves, Miko Sum Man Sing 02 Stripped silk fabric, Briggite Perkins, showroom, near the Jemaa el Fna, Marrakech, appointment only, T: +00 212 2437 7416, hanbel djellabah made from an antique tapestry, Abdou Ghirdou 03 Natural woven and embroidered background, Boutiquèè Majid, T: +011 212 3 993 8892, www.boutique majid.com, ground cloth, Lina Audi for Liwâân, 8, Rue SaintSulpice, 75006 Paris. T: +01 4326 0740, organza kary pants with floral embroidery, Abdou Ghirdou, 04 Yellow silk with purple cut velvet flowers, Boutique Majid, as before, canvas djellabah, Miko Sum Man Sing, antique gold caftan, Galerie Tindouf, 22 boulevard Mohammed VI, Marrakech, T: +00212 (0) 2443 0908, embroidered scarf, Boutique Majid, as before 05 Embroidered background cloth, Lina Audi for Liwâân, as before.

Contents

SELVEDGE('selnid3) n. 1. finished differently 2. the nonfraying edge of a length of woven fabric. [: from SELF + EDGE]

INDULGEtextiles to buy, collect or simply admire 13 Outlines are in Silhouettes are the shape of things to come 15 Readers offers Up to 25% off holiday essentials and stay at home treats 19Bloom Shopping for budding floral fanatics 38 Hot house flowers Cultivated cloth 71Selvedge Objects Tempting new products and our best selling favourites

INDUSTRY from craft to commerce 30 Roses without thorns Silk flowers from the Legeron workshop in Paris 32 Heaven scent Floral fragrance in fashion 77 Susanne GrundellGeometric designs with their roots in nature 79 Design fileA case study of classic textiles: Mariska Karasz

ANECDOTEtextiles that touch our lives 96 Lei of the landA lasting symbol of Hawaii

CONCEPTtextiles in fine art 40 Summer of loveTakashi Iwasaki walks on the sunny side

ATTIRE critical reporting of fashion trends 20 COVER STORYThe illusionistThe magic toy shop of Tim Walker 26 Control and excess Relax in robes, kaftans and intense colour

COHABIT stunning interiors beautifully photographed 54 Print worksBrigitte Singh’s impressive surroundings

GLOBAL travel destinations and ethnographic textiles 43COVER STORYPress onToy and Joy Singh’s passion for block printing 52 Building blocks The foundations of the Anokhi Museum 60 Material goods The fantasy of Asia 67COVER STORYGroup project Consider a creative break in an artists’ colony

INFORMthe latest news, reviews and exhibition listings

04 bias/contributors 05 correspondence 07 news

Trends and essential ideas 11 sustain

Mending our ways: ethical

textiles 17 In the bag

Shop smart with our Linnet

bag pattern 85 Select Not to be missed

exhibitions and events 86 international listings

Exhibitions, fairs and

events 88 view

Compton Verney, Cloth and

Culture Now, British Sari

Story, Re:weave

Christopher Farr, Psycho

Buildings, Skin and Bones 95coming next

The Harvest issue 93resources Information and research

links for this issue 80subscription offer A Gudrun Sjöödéén printed

cotton purse worth £7 for

every new subscriber and

renewal plus Linnet bag

kits and Susanne Grundell

printed seedcushions

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