h i s t o r y j ohn b r e wer
Grin City The Smile Revolution in Eighteenth Century Paris
By Colin Jones (Oxford University Press 231pp £22.99)
Colin Jones’s The Smile Revolution in Eighteenth Century Paris is a marvellous, engaging and constantly enlightening study, one that is sure to make you purse your lips with pleasure. To judge from the accessible and illuminating mixture of medical, cultural and political history, my Beverly Hills dentist, an Armenian-American with impeccable teeth, a broad smile, ineffable charm and the latest (and least painful) technologies, would have been quite at home in ancien régime Paris. Jones’s book is about teeth and smiles, bodies and culture. In his deftly woven narrative, it becomes clear that the triumphs of late-18th-century French dentistry – professionalisation, a commitment to canine conservation and oral hygiene, skill in making and installing artificial dentures – were a crucial element in the complex process he calls the ‘Smile Revolution’. Only when an open mouth was able to expose white teeth (or, failing that, white dentures), only when dental hygiene dispelled the miasma of halitosis, could a full smile exposing the teeth be countenanced.
And why does a smile, that most evanescent of expressions, matter? Because, rather like the grin of Lewis Carroll’s Cheshire Cat, the smile is part of something larger. For Jones, smiles are vital signs, mixing nature and culture. The history of the Parisian smile, he maintains, involves ‘surgical and scientific advances; significant social, economic and political developments; and also changing notions of emotion, expression, behaviour, selfhood and gender’. There were not just different ways to smile, but also a politics and culture of smiling: a simper, a smirk, a grin or a beam might be the expression of a certain sort of feeling, but could also, according to circumstance, excite sympathy and friendship or incur wrath and punishment. What Jones gives us is a history of France seen from the smile’s point of view, taking the reader chronologically through what we might call a series of ‘smile regimes’.
He begins with the stiff, courtly smile of supercilious superiority that emanated from the court of Louis XIV and which was associated with succeeding Bourbon monarchs – a look predicated on gross inequality, but also the result of appalling
‘Madame Vigée Le Brun’, self-portrait, 1786
dental hygiene and care. (In a book with its fair share of Grand Guignol moments, the accidental removal of Louis XIV’s upper right jaw during the extraction of his few remaining teeth in 1685, so that ‘every time the king drank or gargled, the liquid came up through his nose, from where it issued like a fountain’, has to be one of the best.) Courtly smiles were rare – La Rochefoucauld claimed to ration himself to one laugh a year – and could be treacherous when they cracked the facade of imperturbability. Tight-lipped smiles were part of a system of bodily control needed to survive in the duplicitous world of the royal court. They were also a social marker: no courtier wished to be seen (much less portrayed) as open-mouthed, which was at best a sure sign of demotic credulity, levity and bad manners, and at worst a feature of madness.
The 18th-century cult of sensibility, spread through performances on the Parisian stage and nurtured by novels of deep emotional intensity by the likes of Samuel Richardson and Rousseau, loosened the grip of the costive, courtly smile. Charming and tender smiles – transparent expressions of feeling intended to be shared by all men and women, though, in practice, chiefly enjoyed by the Parisian cultural and social elite – became fashionable. Teeth and smiles were chic – and so were dentists. Practitioners like Pierre Fauchard made dental care a profession: they abandoned the street (where teeth had been brutally pulled by colourful showmen like ‘Le Grand Thomas’, who operated on the Pont Neuf and was known as the ‘Pearl of the Charlatans’ and ‘Terror of the Human Jaw’) and set up offices (upstairs so the patients’ screams could not be heard in the street below) in fashionable spots like the Rue Saint-Honoré. They encouraged tooth conservation, not brutal extraction, wrote treatises that established dentistry as a science, and emphasised the importance of patient self-care, which helped them peddle a succession of cleaners, whiteners, gargles, toothpicks and breath sweeteners. Fauchard invented spring-loaded denture sets, which, as Jones reminds us, ‘had the unfortunate habit of leaping dramatically out of the owner’s mouth at unguarded moments’. Nicolas Dubois de Chémant went one better and manufactured very expensive porcelain dentures, a set of which (illustrated in the text) belonged to the exiled archbishop of Narbonne, and were exhumed during the building of the Eurostar terminal at St Pancras.
The smile of sensibility, according to Jones, ‘expressed the essence of character and was the icon of personal identity’. It was part of the repertory of self-presentation in a polite, public and urban culture. At first the Revolution broadened Parisian o c t o b e r 2 0 1 4 | Literary Review 5