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CONTENTS Japanese Textiles COSTUME AS SCENERY 26 Bv Alan Kennedy The dazzling costumes o f traditional Japanese Noh theatre provide most o f the colour,pattern and shape that is seen on a virtually bare stage. Persian Tribal Rugs THE TRIRAL ROAD 3 2 By James Opie A well knoivn writer on South Persian tribal rugs discusses the abandonment o f tribal customs and presents some o f the characteristic weavings which were produced in this area. Caucasian Tribal Rugs AVAR: A SMALL FAMILY......................................................................4 0 Bv Donald Wilber and David Milberg Two American collectors investigate a small group o f distinctive red on blue rugs from Daghestan in the eastern Caucasus. Textile History FELT: MAN'S EARLIEST FARRIC 44 Bv Dr. Michael Ryder The author, an authority on wool and wool technology, writes about the origins, uses and development o f felt, the oldest known material. Museums REPORT 50 EXHIBITIONS 5 1 IN BRIEF.................................................................................................. 58 Books REVIEWS ................................................................................................ 61 TITLES RECEIVED 68 THE HALI GALLERY Advertisement section MARKETPLACE N ew s .................................................................. Auction Price G u id e ................................................................................................... 7 3 Gallery Show s.............................................................................................. 83 Editors' Choice............................................................................................ 9 1 I-IV APPENDIX................................................................................................ 94 Technical Analyses. Footnotes and Bibliographies HALI STOCKISTS 95 INDEX TO ADVERTISERS HALI RATES AND REPRESENTATIVES 96 97 PIi um1null' lliat llie Advertising a M 'ju iiiilrh paginated. Published quarterly bv Hali Pul P rin ted in Great Br itain. c W orldw ide. Hali Publication: ISSN 01 12-0798 Second class postage paid at New ^ o rk ( .i t \ . N’t and additional olfices. Expediters ol the P rin ted \ \ ord Lim ited. 5 1 5 Madison Avenue. New Aork. NA 10022 a re our I SA mailing agents. \ \ bile the publishers encourage unsolicited m anuscripts, au th o rs a re recom m ended to retain a copy of such m anuscripts a s well as of the illustrative m aterial. All work should he c learly typed, double spaced, with w ide margins. Hali a ccepts no responsibility fo r the loss ol o r dam age to such material. I 'n le s s specifically requested, all photographs and m a terials will be retained. The publishers, reserve the right to edit or p recis all subm itted material as they d eem appropriate for publication. Worldwide copyright for all editorial content is held bv the publishers. Hali Publications Limited. Reproduction o f am text o r illustrations, in whole o r in part, is strictly fo rb idden, save with the express written perm ission o f the publishers. Hali publishes German and Italian language supplements fo r our readers in Germany, Switzerland, Austria and Italy. HALIPublisher M ichael F ranses Consulting Editor R obert P in n er Managing Editor & Advertising Sales Bobby Marcuson Associate Publisher (America) E llio t P ress Editor A lan M arcuson Assistant Editors Andrea M arechal, D an ie l Shaffer Editorial Assistant & German Editor Maria Schlatter Editorial Assistant & American Liaison Barbara L indsay Picture Librarian John S troud Contributing Editor Jam es Reid Art Director Lennel Goodwin Jr. Art Assistant and Production Manager Liz D ixon Accounts Manager V eronica Purdey Circulation Manager D iana Hobbs Advertising Sales Assistant E i le en O ’Sullivan Distribution Assistant 69 Ashley Spinks Hali Publications L im ited Directors M ichael F ranses, Robert P inner Head O ffice United K in gdom Kingsgate House, Kingsgate Place, London NW64TA. Telephone (01) 328 9341 (4 lines, 24 hour answering) Advertising Sales Telephone (01) 328 9344 American O ffice 237 Park Avenue, 21st Floor, New York, NY10017 Telephone (212) 551 1443 For subscription enquiries please write to the above address. USA Advertising Sales Telephone 212 599 0652
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HAUPTPLATZ 6 A 8010 GRAZ TEL 0316/71111 A u s t r i a : GABBEH AUSSTELLUNG TEPPICH RARITATEN REINISCH

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CONTENTS

Japanese Textiles COSTUME AS SCENERY

26

Bv Alan Kennedy The dazzling costumes o f traditional Japanese Noh theatre provide most o f the colour,pattern and shape that is seen on a virtually bare stage. Persian Tribal Rugs THE TRIRAL ROAD 3 2 By James Opie A well knoivn writer on South Persian tribal rugs discusses the abandonment o f tribal customs and presents some o f the characteristic weavings which were produced in this area. Caucasian Tribal Rugs AVAR: A SMALL FAMILY......................................................................4 0 Bv Donald Wilber and David Milberg Two American collectors investigate a small group o f distinctive red on blue rugs from Daghestan in the eastern Caucasus. Textile History FELT: MAN'S EARLIEST FARRIC 44 Bv Dr. Michael Ryder The author, an authority on wool and wool technology, writes about the origins, uses and development o f felt, the oldest known material. Museums REPORT 50 EXHIBITIONS 5 1 IN BRIEF.................................................................................................. 58

Books REVIEWS ................................................................................................ 61 TITLES RECEIVED 68

THE HALI GALLERY

Advertisement section MARKETPLACE N ew s ..................................................................

Auction Price G u id e ................................................................................................... 7 3 Gallery Show s.............................................................................................. 83 Editors' Choice............................................................................................ 9 1

I-IV

APPENDIX................................................................................................ 94 Technical Analyses. Footnotes and Bibliographies HALI STOCKISTS 95

INDEX TO ADVERTISERS

HALI RATES AND REPRESENTATIVES

96

97

PIi um1null' lliat llie Advertising a M 'ju iiiilrh paginated.

Published quarterly bv Hali Pul P rin ted in Great Br itain.

c W orldw ide. Hali Publication: ISSN 01 12-0798

Second class postage paid at New ^ o rk ( .i t \ . N’t and additional olfices. Expediters ol the P rin ted \ \ ord Lim ited. 5 1 5 Madison Avenue. New Aork. NA 10022 a re our I SA mailing agents.

\ \ bile the publishers encourage unsolicited m anuscripts, au th o rs a re recom m ended to retain a copy of such m anuscripts a s well as of the illustrative m aterial. All work should he c learly typed, double spaced, with w ide margins. Hali a ccepts no responsibility fo r the loss ol o r dam age to such material. I 'n le s s specifically requested, all photographs and m a terials will be retained. The publishers, reserve the right to edit or p recis all subm itted material as they d eem appropriate for publication. Worldwide copyright for all editorial content is held bv the publishers. Hali Publications Limited. Reproduction o f am text o r illustrations, in whole o r in part, is strictly fo rb idden, save with the express written perm ission o f the publishers.

Hali publishes German and Italian language supplements fo r our readers in Germany, Switzerland, Austria and Italy.

HALIPublisher

M ichael F ranses Consulting Editor R obert P in n er Managing Editor & Advertising Sales

Bobby Marcuson Associate Publisher (America)

E llio t P ress

Editor A lan M arcuson Assistant Editors Andrea M arechal, D an ie l Shaffer Editorial Assistant & German Editor

Maria Schlatter Editorial Assistant & American Liaison

Barbara L indsay Picture Librarian

John S troud Contributing Editor

Jam es Reid

Art Director Lennel Goodwin Jr. Art Assistant and Production Manager

Liz D ixon

Accounts Manager V eronica Purdey Circulation Manager

D iana Hobbs Advertising Sales Assistant

E i le en O ’Sullivan Distribution Assistant

69

Ashley Spinks

Hali Publications L im ited

Directors M ichael F ranses, Robert P inner

Head O ffice United K in gdom Kingsgate House, Kingsgate Place, London NW64TA. Telephone (01) 328 9341 (4 lines, 24 hour answering)

Advertising Sales Telephone (01) 328 9344

American O ffice 237 Park Avenue,

21st Floor, New York, NY10017 Telephone (212) 551 1443 For subscription enquiries please write to the above address. USA Advertising Sales Telephone 212 599 0652

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