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HALITheInternationalMagazineof Antique Carpet and TextileArt Editor Daniel Shaffer Deputy Editor Jill Tilden Senior Editor Nicholas Purdon Editorial Archivist & Librarian Rachel Evans Editorial Assistant Sania Rahman Consultant Editors Michael Franses, Robert Pinner Contributing Editors Julia Bailey, Alberto Boralevi John Carswell, Steven Cohen Thomas Cole, Rosemary Crill Susan Day, Murray Eiland Jr Herbert Exner, Anthony Hazledine Rina Indictor, Ralph Kaffel Alan Kennedy, Donald King DeWitt Malian. John Mills Vanessa Moraga, Thomas Murray Penny Oakley, Carlo Maria Suriano Wendel Swan, Parviz Tanavoli John Wertime Art Director Liz Dixon Art Editor Sam Paton Publisher Sebastian Ghandchi Advertisement Manager Marlin Brand Advertisement Co-ordinator Angharad Britton Senior Advertisement Executive Ralph Emmerson Advertisement Executive Rosario Canade Distribution Assistant Chris Armstrong Database & Circulation Consultant Veronica Purdey HALI PUBLICATIONS LIMITED St Giles House, 50 Poland Street London W1V 4AX, UK Telephone (44 171) 970 4600 Main fax (44 171) 970 4897 Advertising fax (44 171) 970 4896 E-mail bali@centaur.co.uk For courier and hand deliveries only, HALI is located at: 1&2 Berners Street, 3rd Floor London W1P 3AG, UK A Member of the Centaur Communications Limited Group IIALI97 Issue 97 59 E D IT O R IA L Ears are burning? Someone out there is discussing you. Plus the De Young’s ongoing good fortune; Turkish congress plans; the bureaucratic tendency. 61 LETTERS The revival ol natural purple. Michael Bischof puts the record straight; partial reviewing; rugs in the Esfahan Treasury; gaining access to the V&A study collections; more Tsars for sale. 63 FRAGMENTS Orientalist responses to Eastern culture mediated through brush and lens; German ruggies gather in Munich; the robe of a god passes to a lesser mortal; preserving Macclesiield’s Paradise Mill; feasting in Tbilisi. 67 FORUM Ulrich Ahlheim asks why. flying in the face of the evidence, none of the likely candidates in the Philadelphia ICOC exhibitions and catalogue were designated as Kurdish. 71 POSTCARD Tony Hazledine is transported back to the days of Byzantium as he visits the monastic community of Mount Athos and journeys to Thessaloniki. 72 M AM LUK BLAZON CARPETS Carlo M a r ia Suriano The great court carpets of the Mamluks are among the most monumental and extraordinary works of textile art ever produced. Of the three known examples which carry the heraldic blazon of Sultan Qaitbay, the fragmented Bardini carpet has only recently re-entered the public domain. To mark the occasion, this article focuses on the blazon carpets as products of an Islamic culture both conservative and international in spirit, their geometricity fully representative of the Girikh or geometric mode in currency throughout much ol the Islamic world in the 15th century. THE COVER The detail is from this north Indian scrolling vines and blossoms carpet fragment, Kashmir or Lahore, ca. 162025. Pash mina wool pile on si lk foundation, 1.25 x 5.70m (4'1" x 18'9"). Purchased by Calouste Gulbenkian from M. kahyaian, London, in 1926. The carpet is probably the earliest surviving example of the pashmina group, made late in the emperor Jahangir's reign. Two other fragments are known, one in a European private collection, the other in the Met, New York. Museu Calouste Culbenkian, Lisbon, inv.no. T 72. 82 THE K R EM L IN ICONOSTASIS Natalya V ju eva & M a r in a Kuznetzova One of the strangest works ol Russian Orthodox art, the screen in the Crucifixion Chapel ol the Moscow Kremlin is atypical in both technique and iconography. The icons it carries are mixed media images combining paint and textiles, using a range ol imported luxury silks from both East and West. 86 BALUCH STYLE Thomas Cole Students ol Baluch rugs have been hung up lor a while on tribal origins. The author proposes a simpler and more visual approach, identifying a number of broad regional aesthetics. 92 E XH IB IT IO N S Pueblo, Navajo and Hispanic weavings will feature at ACOR 4 in Denver, as will Caucasian prayer rugs and the textile arts ol the Tibetan realm; Jacqueline Simcox 4
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March 1998 reviews the Cleveland/Met exhibition of early Chinese and Central Asian textiles as it transfers to New York; also Indonesian textiles in Basel. Japanese kimonos at the V&A, Vatican treasures at Cleveland, and Persian tribal rugs at Bonhams. 98 BOOKS Stuart Cary Welch looks at Flowers Underfoot, Daniel Walker’s catalogue for the Metropolitan Museum's much acclaimed exhibition of Indian carpets of the Mughal era: Peter Andrews on The Kyrgyz and Their Reed Screens by John Sommer; Secrets of the Harem, by Carla Coco, reviewed by John Carswell; Jacqueline Herald on Jenny Balfour-Paul’s Indigo in the Arab World; Patricia Baker reviews Indian Block-Printed Textiles in Egypt: The Newberry Collection in the Ashmolean Museum, by Ruth Barnes; Sian Jay on Contemporary Tie and Dye Textiles oj Indonesia, by Kim Jane Saunders. 107 APPENDIX Notes, acknowledgments and supplementary information. 109 THE H A L I GALLERY A distinctive advertisement section in house style. 131 M ARKETPLACE NEWS New rug renaissance at Domotex in Hanover and the International Area Rug Market in Atlanta, Georgia a surleil ol quality keeps buyers on their toes. 133 AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Rippon Boswell’s Kailash sale in November 1997 provides much grist for the APG mill, as too do Sotheby’s, Christie’s and Skinner's December offerings. 143 FAIRS A pictorial preview of Dealers’ Row al the upcoming 4th ACOR, to be held in May at the Westin Hotel in Denver, Colorado. 148 GALLERIES Three European galleries guest in New York: The Textile Gallery with early Chinese textiles al Flacks; BlondeelDeroyan with pre-Renaissance tapestries at Blumka; Bertram Frauenkneeht with carpet and textile art of the world at Mark Shilen's gallery; top-notch Baluch carpets at Asad Khan's New Hampshire store; David Reuben’s eighty Turkmen carpets and bags in London’s Kentish Town anti more Turkmens at Mountain Looms in Singapore; a collection ol Qing court purses at Linda Yi rigglesworth, London. 157 NETWORK A classified advertisement section. 171 CALENDAR A listing of auctions, exhibitions and lairs worldwide. 175 PARTING SHOTS AUS focus this issue with celebrations, previews and sales in Washington. Boston, New York and Hanover; also Domotex in Ilannover, Germany, and a tropical conference in Yogyakarta, Indonesia. f 444, » , :••"•••• , ;• '-frl-l .. , , . : • \ : : x s 3 * SUBSCRIPTION RATES UK: *6 issues) £62; (l 2 issues) £ I 15 USA: (6 issues) Si 18; (12 issues) $220 GERMANY: (6 issues) DM190: (12 issues) DM356 REST OK EUROPE: (6 issues) £1)8:(12 issues) £121 REST OKWORLD: (6 issues) £84. (12 issues) £161 Current and Rack Issues of HALI are available. See the Order Card in this issue for details. Please address all written subscription arid circulation enquiries to our London Office. SUBSCRIPTIONS HOTLINE (44 171) 970 4564 HALI is published six times a year in February, April. June, August, September and December. HAl J is published by Mali Publications Limited. Company Registration No. 1391 142. Printed in United Kingdom. ©Worldwide. Hali Publications Limited, London 1998. ISSN 0142-0798 ©Registered in the US Patent & Trademark Office. This periodical is sold subject to the condition that it shall not be lent, hired out or otherwise disposed of by wav ol trade at a price in excess of the recommended subscription price, without the prior written permission of the publishers. Hali Publications Limited. Postmaster Please send USA address changes to: HALI, P.O. Rox 1518, Champlain, NY 12919-1518. USA. PERIODICAL POSTAGE PAID at Champlain NY. and additional offices. P.P.I. are our USA mailing agents. IJnsolieited Materials While the publishers encourage the submission of unsolicited manuscripts, authors should retain a copy of such manuscripts as well as of the illustrative material. All work, in typescript or computer printout, should be doublespaced, with wide margins. HALI accepts no responsibility for the loss of, or damage to. such material. Unless specifically requested, all photographs and materials will be retained. The publishers reserve the right to edit or precis all submitted material as they deem appropriate for publication. Worldwide copyright is held by the publishers. Hali Publications Limited. Reproduction of any text or illustration, in whole or in part, is forbidden without the publishers' prior written permission. Imagesetting: Disc to Print, London. Colour Origination, Printing & Binding: J. Thomson Colour Printers. Glasgow-. Paper: Mediaprint (Ross 115gsm supplied by Donald Murray Paper Ltd.. Glasgow. HALI ETYMON llah, the modern Turkish word for carpet or rug, was written kali in Ottoman Turkish script until late in the 19th century, as it was in classical Persian and still is in modern Persian. It was borrowed from Persian into I rdu and from Ottoman Turkish into Armenian and other Caucasian tongues and into tin* languages of the Balkans. Its ultimate origin is uncertain; it could he Turkish but might he Sogdian. MALI97

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HALITheInternationalMagazineof Antique Carpet and TextileArt

Editor Daniel Shaffer Deputy Editor Jill Tilden Senior Editor Nicholas Purdon Editorial Archivist & Librarian Rachel Evans Editorial Assistant Sania Rahman Consultant Editors Michael Franses, Robert Pinner Contributing Editors Julia Bailey, Alberto Boralevi John Carswell, Steven Cohen Thomas Cole, Rosemary Crill Susan Day, Murray Eiland Jr Herbert Exner, Anthony Hazledine Rina Indictor, Ralph Kaffel Alan Kennedy, Donald King DeWitt Malian. John Mills Vanessa Moraga, Thomas Murray Penny Oakley, Carlo Maria Suriano Wendel Swan, Parviz Tanavoli John Wertime

Art Director Liz Dixon Art Editor Sam Paton

Publisher Sebastian Ghandchi

Advertisement Manager Marlin Brand Advertisement Co-ordinator Angharad Britton Senior Advertisement Executive Ralph Emmerson Advertisement Executive Rosario Canade

Distribution Assistant Chris Armstrong

Database & Circulation Consultant Veronica Purdey

HALI PUBLICATIONS LIMITED St Giles House, 50 Poland Street London W1V 4AX, UK Telephone (44 171) 970 4600 Main fax (44 171) 970 4897 Advertising fax (44 171) 970 4896 E-mail bali@centaur.co.uk For courier and hand deliveries only, HALI is located at: 1&2 Berners Street, 3rd Floor London W1P 3AG, UK A Member of the Centaur Communications Limited Group

IIALI97

Issue 97

59 E D IT O R IA L

Ears are burning? Someone out there is discussing you. Plus the De Young’s ongoing good fortune; Turkish congress plans; the bureaucratic tendency.

61 LETTERS

The revival ol natural purple. Michael Bischof puts the record straight; partial reviewing; rugs in the Esfahan Treasury; gaining access to the V&A study collections; more Tsars for sale.

63 FRAGMENTS

Orientalist responses to Eastern culture mediated through brush and lens; German ruggies gather in Munich; the robe of a god passes to a lesser mortal; preserving Macclesiield’s Paradise Mill; feasting in Tbilisi. 67 FORUM

Ulrich Ahlheim asks why. flying in the face of the evidence, none of the likely candidates in the Philadelphia ICOC exhibitions and catalogue were designated as Kurdish.

71 POSTCARD

Tony Hazledine is transported back to the days of Byzantium as he visits the monastic community of Mount Athos and journeys to Thessaloniki.

72 M AM LUK BLAZON CARPETS

Carlo M a r ia Suriano The great court carpets of the Mamluks are among the most monumental and extraordinary works of textile art ever produced. Of the three known examples which carry the heraldic blazon of Sultan Qaitbay, the fragmented Bardini carpet has only recently re-entered the public domain. To mark the occasion, this article focuses on the blazon carpets as products of an Islamic culture both conservative and international in spirit, their geometricity fully representative of the Girikh or geometric mode in currency throughout much ol the Islamic world in the 15th century.

THE COVER The detail is from this north Indian scrolling vines and blossoms carpet fragment, Kashmir or Lahore, ca. 162025. Pash mina wool pile on si lk foundation, 1.25 x 5.70m (4'1" x 18'9"). Purchased by Calouste Gulbenkian from M. kahyaian, London, in 1926. The carpet is probably the earliest surviving example of the pashmina group, made late in the emperor Jahangir's reign. Two other fragments are known, one in a European private collection, the other in the Met, New York. Museu Calouste Culbenkian, Lisbon, inv.no. T 72.

82 THE K R EM L IN ICONOSTASIS

Natalya V ju eva & M a r in a Kuznetzova One of the strangest works ol Russian Orthodox art, the screen in the Crucifixion Chapel ol the Moscow Kremlin is atypical in both technique and iconography. The icons it carries are mixed media images combining paint and textiles, using a range ol imported luxury silks from both East and West.

86 BALUCH STYLE

Thomas Cole Students ol Baluch rugs have been hung up lor a while on tribal origins. The author proposes a simpler and more visual approach, identifying a number of broad regional aesthetics.

92 E XH IB IT IO N S

Pueblo, Navajo and Hispanic weavings will feature at ACOR 4 in Denver, as will Caucasian prayer rugs and the textile arts ol the Tibetan realm; Jacqueline Simcox

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