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H A L I 7he International Magazine oj Antique (Jar/tel and Textile Art

Issue 9.5

E d i t o r D a n i e l S h a f l e r D e p u t y E d i t o r J i l l T i l d e n S e n i o r E d i t o r N i c h o l a s P u r d o n E d i t o r i a l A r c h i v i s t & L i b r a r i a n R a c h e l E v a n s

C o n s u l t a n t E d i t o r s M i c h a e l F r a n s e s , R o b e r t P i n n e r

59 E D IT O R IA L

W om en b a c k on top a l th e T o p k a p i ; C l e v e l a n d ’ s A n n e W a r d w e l l b ow s out in s t y l e ; m o re C - 1 4 q u e r i e s .

61 L E T T E R S

Setting th e r e c o r d s tr a ig h t on W id e n e r ’ s r u g s , N u r e y e v ’ s tom b , T u r k m e n p r i c e s an d p e r s o n a l id e n t i t y ; s e e k in g e n l ig h te n m e n t on C-14 d a t in g , b l a c k s h e e p a n d T im o r e s e c o s tu m e ; p u t t in g u s in th e p i c t u r e on ru g s in W a r s aw .

65 F R A GM EN T S

C o n t r i b u t i n g E d i t o r s J u l i a B a i l e y , A l b e r t o B o r a l e v i J o h n C a r s w e l l . S t e v e n C o h e n T h o m a s C o l e . R o s e m a r y C r i l l S u s a n D a y . M u r r a y E i l a n d J r H e r b e r t E x n e r . A n t h o n y H a z l e d i n e R i n a I n d i c t o r , R a l p h K a f f e l A l a n K e n n e d y , D o n a l d K i n g D e W i t t M a l l a r y , J o h n M i l l s V a n e s s a M o r a g a , T h o m a s M u r r a y P e n n y O a k l e y , C a r l o M a r i a S u r i a n o W e n d e l S w a n . P a n i z T a n a v o l i J o h n W e r t i m e

A r t D i r e c t o r L i z D i x o n A r t E d i t o r Anderida Hatch

Publisher S e b a s t i a n G h a n d e h i

C o m m e r c i a l M a n a g e r A n d y P o w e l l

A d v e r t i s e m e n t M a n a g e r A n g h a r a d B r i t t o n D e p u t y A d v e r t i s e m e n t M a n a g e r C o n r a d S h o u l d i c e S e n i o r A d v e r t i s e m e n t E x e c u t i v e R a l p h E m m e r s o n A d v e r t i s e m e n t E x e c u t i v e R o s a r i o C a n a d e

D i s t r i b u t i o n A s s i s t a n t C h r i s A r m s t r o n g

E a r l y N i lo t i c b o te h s ; lo v e alfair o f an I t a l ia n c o u n t e s s ; a K i ta j t a p e s t r y fo r th e B E : llajjis r e c a l l th e g lo r y d a y s .

69 FO RUM

A c l o s e r lo o k at th at m o s t e x c l u s i v e o f T u r k m e n ru g s , the n in th S a lo r e n s i ; in v e s t i g a t io n , r e v e l a t io n an d o b s t ru c t io n at a C h i n e s e textile s ym p o s iu m ; th e m an w h o w a s o ffe r e d both A r d a b i l c a r p e t s (sig h t u n s e e n ) at a k n o c kd ow n p r ic e .

T H E C O V E R T h e W r i g h t n g o f S h a h J a h a n o n h i s F o r t y - S e c o n d L u n a r B i r t h d a y ( d e t a i l ) . A g r a . I ) i w a n - i K h a s s , 2 3 O c t o b e r 1 6 3 2 . P a d s h a h n a m a, l o l i o 7 0 B , p a i n t e d b y B h o l a , c a . 1 6 3 5 . B e g i n n i n g w i t h t h e M u g h a l e m p e r o r A k b a r a n d f i n a l l y r e a c h i n g f u l l m a t u r i t y u n d e r h i s g r a n d s o n S h a h J a h a n , a s t y l e o f m i n i a t u r e p a i n t i n g w h i c h p l a c e d g r e a t v a l u e o n h i g h l y r e a l i s t i c p o r t r a i t u r e - u n i q u e i n t h e I s l a m i c w o r l d u p t o t h a t t i m e - w a s d e v e l o p e d i n I n d i a . C o n c u r r e n t l y , m a n y o f t h e t e x t i l e s a p p e a r i n g i n t h o s e p a i n t i n g s a r e e x t r a o r d i n a r i l y d e t a i l e d . N a t u r a l l y o n e w o n d e r s w h e t h e r t h e y t o o a r e a s a c c u r a t e l y i l l u s t r a t e d a s t h e s u b j e c t s o f p o r t r a i t s . T h i s p a i n t i n g s h o w s , i n t h e f o r e g r o u n d . a c l e a r r e p r e s e n t a t i o n o f a s e c t i o n o f a s t a n d a r d r e d - g r o u n d " I n d o - P e r s i a n ’ c a r p e t w i t h a s c r o l l i n g a r a b e s q u e a n d p a l m e t t e f i e l d a n d c l o u d b a n d a n d p a l m e t t e b o r d e r , a l t h o u g h w i t h o u t t h e t y p i c a l l a r g e s c a l e p a l m e t t o s t h a t o n e m i g h t e x p e c t t o s e e . C o u r t e s y T h e R o y a l C o l l e c t i o n H e r M a j e s t y t h e Q u e e i \ .

74 A T IM E O F R EN EW A L : L ia o L u x u r y

Silk s Alan Kennedy T h e art o f th e L ia o , a northern C h in e s e d y n a s ty o f the 10 t h I I th c e n t u r y , r e v e a l s d r i v e , i n t e l l i g e n c e an d an a b i l i t y to s y n th e s i s e ; t h e i r textile art is o n ly b e g in n in g to b e known.

78 Q A LAM K A R -E T A S V IR I : Two P e r s ia n

F ig u ra l Hangings with Religious Themes Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff & Gudrun Schubert ‘T h e L a s t J u d g e m e n t ’ an d ‘T h e I n v e s t i t u r e o f Ali’ a p p e a r on tw o r a re f ig u ra l p a in t e d cotton q a l am k a r .

82 M A LAGASY LAM BA : S ilk Weaving am ong the M erin a o f M ad agascar Simon Peers A f e w o f th e se b r i l l i a n t s h im m e r in g t e x t i le s s u r v iv e in s c a t t e r e d c o l le c t i o n s , b u t a w e a v in g r e v i v a l is r e s t o r in g s om e th in g o f th e g lo r y o f th e l a m b a t r a d it io n .

D a t a b a s e & C i r c u l a t i o n C o n s u l t a n t V e r o n i c a P u r d e v

8 6 T H E E A R L I E S T IK A T

Alisa Baginski & Orit Shamir E x c a v a t e d in I s r a e l th is g ro u p o f cotton fr a gm e n t s a r e th e e a r l i e s t w a r p - ik a t s fo u n d a n yw h e r e in th e w o r ld .

8 8 BOUND TO TH E TO RAH

Evelyn Friedlander & Fritz Armbruster S ym b o l i s in g a b o y 's r e la t io n s h ip to J e w i s h com m u n ity and law , em b r o id e re d T o ra h b in d e r s w e r e u s e d in G e rm a n s p e a k in g la n d s fo r o v e r th ree c e n tu r ie s .

90 A ROMANOV CORONATION RUG

Simon Baker T h e d o w a g e r em p r e s s M a r ie F e o d o r o v n a o f R u s s i a f le d from th e B o l s h e v i k s to E n g la n d in 1 9 1 8 , taking w ith h e r a S h i r v a n p i c t o r i a l ru g d e p ic t in g h a p p i e r d a y s .

H a l i P u b l i c • a t i o n s L i m i t e d K i n g s g a t e H o u s e , K i n g s g a t e P l a c e L o n d o n N W 6 4 T A , I K T e l e p h o n e ( 4 4 1 7 1 ) 3 2 8 9 3 4 1 E a x ( 4 4 1 7 1 ) 3 7 2 5 9 2 4 E - m a i l h a l i @ c e n t a u r . c o . u k A M e m b e r o f t h e C e n t a u r C o m m u n i c a t i o n s L i m i t e d G r o u p

92 AN ID E A L R E A L IT Y : C a rp e t Im ages in the W indsor P a d s h a h n a m a Steven Cohen M u g h a l a r t i s t s p a in s t a k in g ly d e p ic t e d p e o p le an d e v e n t s . B u t d o e s this m e an th at th e c a r p e l s , t e x t i le s an d o th e r a r t e f a c t s in th e ir p a in t in g s c a n he ta k e n l i t e r a l l y ?

HALI 95

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