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HALI CONTENTS Issue 63 Volume 14, Number 3 June 1992 Publisher & Editor Alan Mareason Associate Publisher Sebastian Ghandehi Deputy Editor Daniel ShalTer Senior Editors Maria Schlatter. Jill Tilden Assistant Editor Jennifer Gill Editorial Co-ordinator Judy Ilirsh Chief (Contributing Editors Ian Bennett. Robert Pinner (Contributing Editors Alberto Boralevi. Steven (Cohen Rosemarv Grill. Michael I ranses Donald King. DeWitt Mallarv John Mills. Thomas Murray James W.Reid. Philippa Scott Parviz Tanavoli Picture l ib rarian Jolm Stroud Art Director I.iz Dixon Art Editor Amainla Balelit iar Advertisement Director Andrew I lurlock Senior Advertisement Executive Julie Wicks Ad vert isement Production Ben Loveless Advertisement Secretary Lara Zunino Subscriptions & Administration Barbara Schneider Publisher’s Assistant Wendy Kasabian D istribution Manager Marc Thomas Systems Manager Veronica Purdev Receptionist Zobida Khan The German language supplement is published as an integral part of HALL Editor Maria Schlatter T ranslators Dorrit Dunn. Susanne Mattern 55 EDITORIAL A rug conference in Tehran. 57 LETTERS Discussion and images o f a Celtic bin/man, a Caucasian palmette design. Baluch skeletons; Bob Pittenger calls jo r information on blueground Timuris; and Tom Cole returns to the steppe hordes. 61 FRAGMENTS Thyssen's 'B ragatiza'carpet receives treatment a t Hampton Court; an Islamic textile symposium in Brooklyn: new pre-Columbian galleries at Berlin's I olkerkunde Museum. 69 FORUM Robert Pinner looks at design similarities between Turkoman tribal rugs and Anatolian carpets o f an earlier generation. 70 CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE Californian collector Mart Golub's choice, a Himalayan dance mask, is one o f the most unusual tribal pieces ever published in I I ALI. 72 THREE SILK JAJIMS A Case Study of a Transcaucasian Silk Product John T. Wertime, Richard E. Wright & Jane L. Merritt Three 19th and 20th century silk jajims provide the raw material jo r an in-depth rmdtidiscplincuy analysis of the history and technical attributes oj these warp-facecl wearings, as well as o f the socio-economic role of jajirn wearing and sericulture in the Caucasus. 84 SHISHA DERMA Iranian "Black & White’ Textiles Parviz Tanavoli A look at two technicaliv different groups o f distinctive bags and trappings woven by the Qashqa'i and Lor tribes of southwest Persia. Traded in the Persian bazaars as shisha derma, these indigo and ivory domestic flatweaves are part o f an aesthetic tradition that survives to this day in the Near East and North Africa. 90 TEXTILES OF THE VLACHS OF METSOVO Catherine Van Steen & Eleni Lykiardopoulos A small mountain town in northern Greece with a dramatic and often troubled history has a long association with wool production and wearing. The authors look at the robust domestic covers and rugs produced by the Metsovite Vlachs. a IIALI o:s

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HALI

CONTENTS

Issue 63 Volume 14, Number 3 June 1992

Publisher & Editor

Alan Mareason Associate Publisher Sebastian Ghandehi

Deputy Editor Daniel ShalTer Senior Editors Maria Schlatter. Jill Tilden

Assistant Editor

Jennifer Gill Editorial Co-ordinator

Judy Ilirsh Chief (Contributing Editors

Ian Bennett. Robert Pinner

(Contributing Editors Alberto Boralevi. Steven (Cohen Rosemarv Grill. Michael I ranses Donald King. DeWitt Mallarv

John Mills. Thomas Murray James W.Reid. Philippa Scott

Parviz Tanavoli Picture l ib rarian

Jolm Stroud

Art Director

I.iz Dixon Art Editor Amainla Balelit iar

Advertisement Director

Andrew I lurlock Senior Advertisement Executive

Julie Wicks Ad vert isement Production

Ben Loveless Advertisement Secretary

Lara Zunino

Subscriptions & Administration

Barbara Schneider Publisher’s Assistant

Wendy Kasabian D istribution Manager

Marc Thomas Systems Manager Veronica Purdev

Receptionist Zobida Khan

The German language supplement is published as an integral part of HALL

Editor Maria Schlatter T ranslators Dorrit Dunn. Susanne Mattern

55 EDITORIAL

A rug conference in Tehran. 57 LETTERS

Discussion and images o f a Celtic bin/man, a Caucasian palmette design. Baluch skeletons; Bob Pittenger calls jo r information on blueground Timuris; and Tom Cole returns to the steppe hordes. 61 FRAGMENTS

Thyssen's 'B ragatiza'carpet receives treatment a t Hampton Court; an Islamic textile symposium in Brooklyn: new pre-Columbian galleries at Berlin's I olkerkunde Museum. 69 FORUM

Robert Pinner looks at design similarities between Turkoman tribal rugs and Anatolian carpets o f an earlier generation. 70 CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE

Californian collector Mart Golub's choice, a Himalayan dance mask, is one o f the most unusual tribal pieces ever published in I I ALI.

72 THREE SILK JAJIMS

A Case Study of a Transcaucasian Silk Product John T. Wertime, Richard E. Wright & Jane L. Merritt Three 19th and 20th century silk jajims provide the raw material jo r an in-depth rmdtidiscplincuy analysis of the history and technical attributes oj these warp-facecl wearings, as well as o f the socio-economic role of jajirn wearing and sericulture in the Caucasus. 84 SHISHA DERMA

Iranian "Black & White’ Textiles Parviz Tanavoli A look at two technicaliv different groups o f distinctive bags and trappings woven by the Qashqa'i and Lor tribes of southwest Persia. Traded in the Persian bazaars as shisha derma, these indigo and ivory domestic flatweaves are part o f an aesthetic tradition that survives to this day in the Near East and North Africa. 90 TEXTILES OF THE VLACHS

OF METSOVO Catherine Van Steen & Eleni Lykiardopoulos A small mountain town in northern Greece with a dramatic and often troubled history has a long association with wool production and wearing. The authors look at the robust domestic covers and rugs produced by the Metsovite Vlachs.

a

IIALI o:s

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