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Tastings

Issue 51 2016 CONTENTS

Regulars

Opinion

14 HUGH JOHNSON’S COUPS DE COEUR Notes on bottles that have touched his heart.

142 SYMPOSIUM SEÑA: CHILE’S STAR SIGN A lunch in London allows Ella Lister to compare some of the first 20 vintages of the Chadwick family’s top red wine and to ask if the project has lived up to its billing as a “sign” of Chile’s fine-wine potential.

160 ONE BOTTLE BOLLINGER SPECIAL CUVÉE: OPENING THE DOOR TO MEMORY Andrew Jefford reflects on a single interesting bottle.

163 TASTINGS The distinctive World of Fine Wine tasting philosophy and protocol, for both blind and open tastings, and the members of the permanent panel.

166 LAYING DOWN 2014 BURGUNDY: ALL’S WELL THAT ENDS WELL Michael Edwards introduces a vintage saved by an Indian summer, thanks to which there are many exciting wines in both colors, as sampled by Neil Beckett, Michel Bettane, Anne Krebiehl MW, Margaret Rand, and Michael Schuster.

192 LAYING DOWN 2011 BAROLO: THE PERFECT VINTAGE FOR ITS TIMES It may not be the greatest vintage in Barolo, but Andrew Jefford, Nicolas Belfrage MW, and Bruno Besa find a region firing on all cylinders.

202 SAVOR ROUSSILLON AND COLLIOURE: EXTREME IN EVERYTHING The dramatic red wines of Catalan France provoke divergent responses from Andrew Jefford, Simon Larkin MW, and David Williams.

210 SAVOR SOUTH AFRICAN WHITE BLENDS: DEDICATED FOLLOWERS OF PASSION The Cape’s white blends deserve their current fashionable status, says Andrew Jefford, who was joined at an impressive tasting by Jancis Robinson MW and Andreas Larsson.

8 CONTRIBUTORS The tasters and writers in this issue.

18 NOUVEAU Neil Beckett on the Hospices de Beaune auction 2015; Roger Morris on premiers crus in Pouilly-Fuissé; Dominic Fenton on the 2015 VDP auction in Trier; Margaret Rand on The World of Fine Wine’s 50th issue anniversary dinner; David Williams on Taittinger’s Domaine Evremond in Kent; Nicolas Belfrage MW’s tribute to Giacomo Tachis.

36 LETTERS David Schildknecht and Benjamin Lewin MW debate the VDP; Paul Symington replies to Michael Steinberger on wine writing.

42 LIQUID ASSETS HAS THE TIDE TURNED WITH THE YEAR? Ella Lister examines the fortunes and failings of the fine-wine auction and secondary markets over the past 12 months.

54 PREVIEW Elin McCoy on Kelli White’s Napa Valley Then & Now; David Williams on Benjamin Lewin MW’s Wines of France; Anne Krebiehl MW on John Winthrop Haeger’s Riesling Rediscovered: Bold, Bright, and Dry; Kathleen Burk on Alcohol: A History by Rod Phillips; Stuart Walton on Jean-Luc Nancy’s Intoxication; Michael Edwards on Gosset 2006 Grand Millésime; Charles Metcalfe on 2013 Domaine de la RomanéeConti; San Leonardo 2010; Fladgate and Symington Douro visitor centers; The Haro Wine Station Experience; Wine Lister launch.

78 REVIEW Michael Edwards on Deutz Cuvée William Deutz 1988–2002; Mark Golodetz on Ponsot Clos de la Roche 1978–2005; Joanna Simon on Antinori Guado al Tasso 1998–2011 and Matarocchio 2007–2011; Roy Hersh on ancient Malmsey Madeira.

40 À LA VOLÉE A MATTER OF TRANSPARENCY OR NUMBERS? Tom Stevenson defends the inclusion of disgorgement dates on back labels against the charge—voiced most recently by Antoine Malassagne of Champagne AR Lenoble—that the practice “reduces the Champagne-making process to a series of insignificant numbers.”

77 PRISE DE MOUSSE FRUITFUL TASTING NOTES I Are increasingly specific references to fruits, flowers, and vegetables in wine communication a sign of pretentious pedantry or helpful precision? David Schildknecht considers the methodology of the tasting note.

102 MYTHS AND REALITIES THE 2050 RECLASSIFICATION IN FRANCE: A RETROSPECTIVE How will climate change affect the great vineyards of France over the next few decades? Benjamin Lewin MW imagines the radical restructuring of the French appellation system that might be necessary by the year 2050.

112 SINOPHILE CHINESE LIFETIMES Change has been bewilderingly swift in China, and there are signs that the days of conspicuous consumption in the country have already passed. What next for this rapidly maturing market? Ch’ng Poh Tiong makes his predictions. 150 CURIOSITIES THE QUARREL The point of the quarrel is not to fight but to evolve new ideas, says Andrea Frost, a principle our new columnist is happy to apply to wine, whether she’s discussing its role in nature, the way it’s described, or its contribution to “the good life.” 218 FINISH OEDIPUS: WHY DELIBERATELY CHOOSE TO BE BLIND? Michel Bettane laments the decision made by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux to do away with blind tastings at this year’s en primeur presentation.

6 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 51 | 2016

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