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‘Teazel’ by Bristol Ivy for Loop, London WWW.LOOPKNITTING.COM 15 CAMDEN PASSAGE, ISLINGTON, LONDON N1 8EA ENGLAND 020 7288 1160 Cover: Photographer Oleg Oprisco Selvedge Magazine Editorial Office 162 Archway Road, London N6 5BB editor@selvedge.org www.selvedge.org T: +44 (0)20 8341 9721 Publisher: Selvedge Ltd Founder: Polly Leonard editor@selvedge.org Subeditor: Grace Warde-Aldam subeditor@selvedge.org Copy Editor: Peter Shaw Head of Communications: Clare Bungey communications@selvedge.org Events Director: Penny Gray events@selvedge.org Promotions Manager: Emma Neen promotions@selvedge.org Artisan Coodrinator: Ronja Brown shop@selvedge.org Interns: Masi Fraysse intern@selvedge.org SELVEDGE (ISSN: 1742-254X) is published bi-monthly six times a year in January, March, May, July, September and November by Selvedge Ltd. Registered Office 14 Milton Park, Highgate, London, N6 5QA. Copyright © Selvedge Ltd 2016. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any material submitted.The editor’s decision on all printed material is final.The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of Selvedge magazine, Selvedge Ltd or the editor. Unsolicited material will be considered but cannot be returned. Printing: Westdale Press Ltd UK. Colour Origination: PH Media. Web Design: datadial. Distribution: Spatial Mail. Postmaster send address corrections to Selvedge Magazine, Spatial House, Willow Farm Business Park, Castle Donnington, Derby, DE74 2TW. Subscription rates for one year (6 issues): Paper Magazine, UK £50.00; Europe £75.00; USA & Rest of World £100.00 DON’T MISS OUT ON YOUR COPY OF To avoid any difficulties obtaining selvedge ask your newsagent to place a regular order for you. It will then be delivered to you or can await collection in the shop. Just fill in your details and hand this form to your newsagent. Please reserve/deliver (delete as applicable) my copy of selvedge on a regular basis, starting with the ........ issue. Title........................First name .......................................... Surname......................................................................... Address ....................................................................... ..................................................................................... Postcode .................................................................... Daytime phone no. ...................................................
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BIAS CONTRIBUTORS Silk is produced by many insects, but generally the silk used for textile manufacturing is produced by the Bombyx mori moth whilst a caterpillar. Ironically the silk moth, which is responsible for the production of some of the world’s most precious fabrics, is closely related to Tineola Bisselliella, the clothes moth that can wreak havoc on our most treasured fibres and forms the biggest threat to textile collections worldwide. In this issue Eirlys Penn investigates how museums are protecting their collections. However, even with the best will in the world it is easy to fall victim to the tirade of the clothes moth at home and you may have to resort to repair, which is by no means a disaster. Joan Gormanno creates charming patches to cover moth holes in your favourite cashmere. We also look at the history of darning, from the exquisite samples produced by the student teachers at Whitelands College, to the Japanese art of boro – worn, torn and old patched clothes and textiles which have recently become highly desirable works of art. Kuon is a contemporary fashion brand who translate the boro aesthetic and philosophy into contemporary pieces. Tim Parry-Williams, expert on Japanese textiles and guest editor for this issue, explores what is on offer in the weaving town Fuji-Yoshida. Caring for our valued textiles is not a new phenomenon. In the 17th century the care of linen was a major preoccupation, as we see in the forthcoming Undressed: A brief history of underwear at the V&A. Block soap, similar to that produced today by Marius Fabre, was a domestic essential as the whiteness of one’s linen was a reflection of one’s moral character. We look forward to a linen clad summer with many a new fair and workshop to enjoy. Polly Leonard, Founder We asked our contributors to tell us about their most precious textiles... VIVIENNE RICHMOND pg32 I collect 20th century American cotton-print feedsacks which, although originally robust, are often now fragile. I unpick any seams, hand wash and air dry the lengths of fabric, wrap them in acid-free tissue and store them in a wooden chest against the (probably imaginary) day when I have time to make something with them. I always mean to photograph them, but suspect I deliberately forget: since simply to look at an image would rob me of the multi-sensory joys of unwrapping anew forgotten treasures. KATY EMCK pg36 TIM PARRY-WLLIAMS pg56 My most precious textiles are two cushions with pineapple motifs on them, designed by Melissa Wyndham and hand-embroidered in prison in abundantly lush French knots. A spotty appliqué tablecloth is another favourite; it was handmade in HMP Wandsworth. Then there’s a complex embroidered screen which looks like an abstract map of the human heart, created by the notable rug designer and former Fine Cell Work trustee Sandy Jones. In my small, carefully stored textile collection, I have a piece of antique Japanese ‘boro’, which was perhaps once a futon cover. Delightful off-white sashiko stitches play through the woven plains and stripes, and occasional holes, some mended, some raw-edged, reveal layers beneath and between. Like many of these cloths, it quietly reflects the traditions of its making. Equally, and somewhat sadly, the unique aged character also reveals something of the extreme rural poverty which it survives. SELVEDGE 3

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‘Teazel’ by Bristol Ivy for Loop, London

WWW.LOOPKNITTING.COM 15 CAMDEN PASSAGE, ISLINGTON, LONDON N1 8EA ENGLAND 020 7288 1160

Cover: Photographer Oleg Oprisco

Selvedge Magazine Editorial Office 162 Archway Road, London N6 5BB editor@selvedge.org www.selvedge.org T: +44 (0)20 8341 9721 Publisher: Selvedge Ltd Founder: Polly Leonard editor@selvedge.org Subeditor: Grace Warde-Aldam subeditor@selvedge.org Copy Editor: Peter Shaw

Head of Communications: Clare Bungey communications@selvedge.org Events Director: Penny Gray events@selvedge.org Promotions Manager: Emma Neen promotions@selvedge.org Artisan Coodrinator: Ronja Brown shop@selvedge.org Interns: Masi Fraysse intern@selvedge.org

SELVEDGE (ISSN: 1742-254X) is published bi-monthly six times a year in January, March, May, July, September and November by Selvedge Ltd. Registered Office 14 Milton Park, Highgate, London, N6 5QA. Copyright © Selvedge Ltd 2016. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any material submitted.The editor’s decision on all printed material is final.The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of Selvedge magazine, Selvedge Ltd or the editor. Unsolicited material will be considered but cannot be returned. Printing: Westdale Press Ltd UK. Colour Origination: PH Media. Web Design: datadial. Distribution: Spatial Mail. Postmaster send address corrections to Selvedge Magazine, Spatial House, Willow Farm Business Park, Castle Donnington, Derby, DE74 2TW. Subscription rates for one year (6 issues): Paper Magazine, UK £50.00; Europe £75.00; USA & Rest of World £100.00

DON’T MISS OUT ON YOUR COPY OF

To avoid any difficulties obtaining selvedge ask your newsagent to place a regular order for you. It will then be delivered to you or can await collection in the shop. Just fill in your details and hand this form to your newsagent. Please reserve/deliver (delete as applicable) my copy of selvedge on a regular basis, starting with the ........ issue. Title........................First name .......................................... Surname......................................................................... Address ....................................................................... ..................................................................................... Postcode .................................................................... Daytime phone no. ...................................................

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