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IN THIS ISSUE

Geographical MAY1999

VOL71No5

14INTERVIEW

18ARCHAEOLOGY 40 CLIMATE

34 ENVIRONMENT 40 GEOPOLITICAL 48 TRAVEL

FEATURES

14 INTERVIEW VISIONSONICE

The polar explorer Wally Herbert completed a 'geographical first' when he crossed the Arctic Ocean via the North Pole on foot in 1969. He reveals his spiritual side to Miranda Haines

18 ARCHAEOLOGY AGRAVECASEOFROBBERY

When looters found cliff-top tombs in Peru's cloud forest, they destroyed mummies and stole artefacts. Now archaeologists are racing to save other graves before the secrets of the Chachapoya people are lost forever. Peter Lerche reports

26 CLIMATE DESERTSTORM

The dryland belt stretching from Africa, across the Middle East to the deserts of Asia, produces a billion tons of dust every year, whipped up in in devastating dust storms. Nick Middleton reports

34 ENVIRONMENT AMEXICANWARNING

Imagine serene white Mexican beaches, ancient Aztec cities and lush green forests. Julie Cohen reports on how behind the idyllic veneer, Mexico's natural environment is close to collapse

40 GEOPOLITICS AFORGOTTENWAR

The Sahawaris of North Africa are caught in a desert war with Morocco. Nick Ryan reports from a settlement in the Liberated Zone in the Western Sahara

48 TRAVEL CHINESE WHISPERS

Xinjiang in Central Asia during the 1860s attracted an eccentric collection of international explorers and spies. Nowadays the region is under Chinese rule and may be on the verge of a new Great Game, this time with less gentlemanly rules. Words by Amur Grover

REGULARS

8 WORLDWATCH

Ultra computer designed to predict environmental change; King Charles's treasure trove revealed; enticing otters back into Britain's rivers; Geographical's archives, Then & Now

12 LETTERS

25 COUNTRYFILE - PERU 55 SITE SEEING

The internet column keys into adventurous sites and travel hotspots on the web

56 HEALTHWISE

Health news, Bug of the Month and Fighting Fit with Lee Bartlett, four-times British surf champion

59 GEOPEOPLE

A programme manager for BP Conservation Programme and Eclipse coordinator in Cornwall

61 WHERE IN THE WORLD

63 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

64 BOOKS AND PREVIEWS

Reviews of the latest in books, TV, radio and world music

66 WHAT'S ON IN MAY

70 GEOGEAR

Climber Seb Mankelow makes light work of Ladakh

81 PRIZE CROSSWORD

82 TRAVELLER'S TRUTHS

Helen Attwater, author and nurse

COVER: A young man carries his girlfriend on his shoulders at a pro-democracy march in Mexico City last year. Most people wore masks to protect themselves from the pollution, by Stuart Conway

GEOGRAPHICALMAY19993