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Photographer Anne Menke, Serlin Associates, Fashion Editor Evyan Metzner, make up & hair Christina Reyna at raybrownpro.com, with Laura Mercier and Klorane Dry Shampoo with Oat Milk & PHYTO Professional Fiber Paste. Retouching: LTI/Lightside Josh Priestly. Model wears Huichol Indios Nayarit Skirt, Yves Saint Laurent Tuxedo blouse, Proenza Schouler Underneath Skirt. Pompoms by Revolucion del sueno, Striped Towel by Las Bayadas Selvedge Magazine Editorial Office 162 Archway Road, London N6 5BB editor@selvedge.org www.selvedge.org T: +44 (0)20 8341 9721 Publisher: Selvedge Ltd Founder: Polly Leonard editor@selvedge.org Subeditor: Grace Warde-Aldam subeditor@selvedge.org Copy Editor: Peter Shaw Head of Communications: Clare Bungey communications@selvedge.org Events Director: Penny Gray events@selvedge.org Community Manager: Emma Neen promotions@selvedge.org Artisan Coordinator: Masi Fraysse shop@selvedge.org Intern: Suki Kaur intern@selvedge.org ‘Piccadilly’ by Justyna Lorkowska for Loop, London Join our KAL on Ravelry! WWW.LOOPKNITTING.COM 15 CAMDEN PASSAGE, ISLINGTON, LONDON N1 8EA ENGLAND 020 7288 1160 SELVEDGE (ISSN: 1742-254X) is published bi-monthly six times a year in January, March, May, July, September and November by Selvedge Ltd. Registered Office 14 Milton Park, Highgate, London, N6 5QA. Copyright © Selvedge Ltd 2016. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any material submitted.The editor’s decision on all printed material is final.The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of Selvedge magazine, Selvedge Ltd or the editor. Unsolicited material will be considered but cannot be returned. Printing: Westdale Press Ltd UK. Colour Origination: PH Media. Web Design: datadial. Distribution: Spatial Mail. Postmaster send address corrections to Selvedge Magazine, Spatial House, Willow Farm Business Park, Castle Donnington, Derby, DE74 2TW. Subscription rates for one year (6 issues): Paper Magazine, UK £50.00; Europe £75.00; USA & Rest of World £100.00 DON’T MISS OUT ON YOUR COPY OF To avoid any difficulties obtaining selvedge ask your newsagent to place a regular order for you. It will then be delivered to you or can await collection in the shop. Just fill in your details and hand this form to your newsagent. Please reserve/deliver (delete as applicable) my copy of selvedge on a regular basis, starting with the ........ issue. Title........................First name .......................................... Surname......................................................................... Address ....................................................................... ..................................................................................... Postcode .................................................................... Daytime phone no. ...................................................
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BIAS CONTRIBUTORS Cotton has played a significant and controversial role in the history of the British Empire, the United States, and India, and is inextricably linked to the highs and lows of human endeavour. Today cotton is still our firm favourite, accounting for 65% of all fibres used for clothing and home furnishings. What accounts for its preeminence? Cotton is comfortable, absorbs moisture well, is strong and easy to launder; but perhaps it is its ability to retain colour that has accounted more than any other for its success.This issue we appreciate the appeal that pretty printed cotton feedsacks would have had during the great depression: and the appeal also of work clothes re-purposed into attractive, albeit necessary, quilts across the southern United States. Our love affair with cotton can be seen in the enduring appeal of printed cotton, from artisanal producers to Japanese prints, as well as in the resurgence of interest in selvedge denim jeans.The designer Carin Mansfield uses high quality cotton in the small-scale production of her heirloom quality clothing, available in white, black and indigo. Like cotton, the appeal of indigo crosses continents from Asia through Africa and back to the Americas – and everywhere in between. Rosalie De Ory has been a convert since visiting Central America fifteen years ago, and has pursued her passion with verve. The vibrant colours of traditional Mexican cotton textiles provided inspiration for our cover photographer Anne Menke as well as the contemporary upholstery company A Rum Fellow.We follow the trail to its source in Oaxaca, and on further to the San Blas Islands of the Panamanian archipelago. I hope you find inspiration wherever you follow the sun this summer. Polly Leonard, Founder We asked our contributors to tell us how they keep cool in the heat... KATE CAVENDISH pg 14 Growing up on Prince Edward Island, I sailed about my day with a cool ocean breeze all summer long. But now that I’ve relocated to the heartland of America, I’ve developed strategies for avoiding a summer swelter. I love to wear dresses that flow – a gently fitted A-line is perfect – and I choose textiles in double-weight linen or a smooth, lined-cotton. I’ll also trade my leather bag for an array of block printed, lightweight cotton bags from India. NINA FUGA pg 96 RINNE ALLEN pg 28 The best way to keep cool in summer is to go to Venice Lido for a swim first thing in the morning, armed with a selection of colourful hand dyed pareos to make improvised beach shelters. The heat forces you to work at a slower pace; I draw with my studio windows open, making the most of the longer days. Summer is my favourite season, when I can finally wear large straw hats that add a chic style to any outfit, particularly light cotton dresses and high heeled sandals. Because I live in Georgia in the American South, it gets hot, hot, hot in the summertime. The best way to stay cool outside and in, I have found, is by choosing the proper clothing. It may seem like a Southern stereotype, but I do wear a lot of linen in the summer, and dresses and skirts made from natural fibres. And, I also try to swim as often as possible in the nearby swimming hole, too. SELVEDGE 3

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BIAS

CONTRIBUTORS

Cotton has played a significant and controversial role in the history of the British Empire, the United States, and India, and is inextricably linked to the highs and lows of human endeavour. Today cotton is still our firm favourite, accounting for 65% of all fibres used for clothing and home furnishings. What accounts for its preeminence? Cotton is comfortable, absorbs moisture well, is strong and easy to launder; but perhaps it is its ability to retain colour that has accounted more than any other for its success.This issue we appreciate the appeal that pretty printed cotton feedsacks would have had during the great depression: and the appeal also of work clothes re-purposed into attractive, albeit necessary, quilts across the southern United States.

Our love affair with cotton can be seen in the enduring appeal of printed cotton, from artisanal producers to Japanese prints, as well as in the resurgence of interest in selvedge denim jeans.The designer Carin Mansfield uses high quality cotton in the small-scale production of her heirloom quality clothing, available in white, black and indigo. Like cotton, the appeal of indigo crosses continents from Asia through Africa and back to the Americas – and everywhere in between. Rosalie De Ory has been a convert since visiting Central America fifteen years ago, and has pursued her passion with verve.

The vibrant colours of traditional Mexican cotton textiles provided inspiration for our cover photographer Anne Menke as well as the contemporary upholstery company A Rum Fellow.We follow the trail to its source in Oaxaca, and on further to the San Blas Islands of the Panamanian archipelago. I hope you find inspiration wherever you follow the sun this summer.

Polly Leonard, Founder

We asked our contributors to tell us how they keep cool in the heat...

KATE CAVENDISH pg 14

Growing up on Prince Edward Island, I sailed about my day with a cool ocean breeze all summer long. But now that I’ve relocated to the heartland of America, I’ve developed strategies for avoiding a summer swelter. I love to wear dresses that flow – a gently fitted A-line is perfect – and I choose textiles in double-weight linen or a smooth, lined-cotton. I’ll also trade my leather bag for an array of block printed, lightweight cotton bags from India.

NINA FUGA pg 96

RINNE ALLEN pg 28

The best way to keep cool in summer is to go to Venice Lido for a swim first thing in the morning, armed with a selection of colourful hand dyed pareos to make improvised beach shelters. The heat forces you to work at a slower pace; I draw with my studio windows open, making the most of the longer days. Summer is my favourite season, when I can finally wear large straw hats that add a chic style to any outfit, particularly light cotton dresses and high heeled sandals.

Because I live in Georgia in the American South, it gets hot, hot, hot in the summertime. The best way to stay cool outside and in, I have found, is by choosing the proper clothing. It may seem like a Southern stereotype, but I do wear a lot of linen in the summer, and dresses and skirts made from natural fibres. And, I also try to swim as often as possible in the nearby swimming hole, too.

SELVEDGE 3

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