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WWW.LOOPKNITTING.COM 15 CAMDEN PASSAGE, ISLINGTON, LONDON N1 8EA ENGLAND 020 7288 1160 Cover: Elizaveta Porodina Folio-id.com Selvedge Magazine Editorial Office 162 Archway Road, London N6 5BB editor@selvedge.org www.selvedge.org T: +44 (0)20 8341 9721 Publisher: Selvedge Ltd Founder: Polly Leonard editor@selvedge.org Features Editor: Grace Warde-Aldam subeditor@selvedge.org Copy Editor: Peter Shaw Head of Communications: Clare Bungey communications@selvedge.org Events Director: Penny Gray events@selvedge.org Community Manager: Emma Neen promotions@selvedge.org Distribution Manager: Ronja Brown distributions@selvedge.org Workshop Assistant: Jessica Edney saturdays@selvedge.org Intern: Ailish Reaney intern@selvedge.org SELVEDGE (ISSN: 1742-254X) is published bi-monthly six times a year in January, March, May, July, September and November by Selvedge Ltd. Registered Office 14 Milton Park, Highgate, London, N6 5QA. Copyright © Selvedge Ltd 2016. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any material submitted.The editor’s decision on all printed material is final.The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of Selvedge magazine, Selvedge Ltd or the editor. Unsolicited material will be considered but cannot be returned. Printing: Westdale Press Ltd UK. Colour Origination: PH Media. Web Design: datadial. Distribution: Spatial Mail. Postmaster send address corrections to Selvedge Magazine, Spatial House, Willow Farm Business Park, Castle Donnington, Derby, DE74 2TW. Subscription rates for one year (6 issues): Paper Magazine, UK £50.00; Europe £75.00; USA & Rest of World £100.00 DON’T MISS OUT ON YOUR COPY OF To avoid any difficulties obtaining selvedge ask your newsagent to place a regular order for you. It will then be delivered to you or can await collection in the shop. Just fill in your details and hand this form to your newsagent. Please reserve/deliver (delete as applicable) my copy of selvedge on a regular basis, starting with the ........ issue. Title........................First name .......................................... Surname......................................................................... Address ....................................................................... ..................................................................................... Postcode .................................................................... Daytime phone no. ...................................................
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BIAS CONTRIBUTORS We asked our contributors: How do you indulge at Christmas? As someone who is drawn to a natural sparse aesthetic, bling can be a bit of a challenge. But it is good to step out of your comfort zone once in a while and Christmas is the time do it. In this issue we embrace hedonism and indulgence. We take inspiration from the most decadent of decades; the 1920s, with a new exhibition The Jazz Age at the Fashion and Textile Museum, whose curator Dennis Nothdruft introduces us to the glitz and the glamour. Dani Trew examines how contemporary designers are taking inspiration from the era. Any magpie would tell you that the appeal of the shiny is not new and Sarah Jane Downing traces the history of the sequin from Elizabethan times to the present. Further back we discover Opus Anglicanum, the height of English embroidery and the ultimate mastery of goldwork. Today in the age of digital embroidery it is exciting to see designers such as Alice Archer interpreting the art form in a new and relevant way. JANE BROCKET PAGE 74 We look behind the scenes at the detailed costumes made for TV and film by Cosprop as well as their hard-wearing yet equally impactful designs for staged productions. On another scale entirely we talk to the costume designer Deborah Cook who designs in miniature for animation, an approach not dissimilar to that used for fashion dolls since the thirteenth century. Finally Jane Brocket reflects on the symbolic power of embroidery in literature and we celebrate the work of Dorothy Whipple in a soon-tobe published compilation of her short stories, offered to our first one hundred three-year subscribers from Persephone books. NOELLE HOEPPE PAGE 56 I wish you a sparkling Christmas and hope to see you at our Advent Festival. Polly Leonard, Founder THOMAS STRAUB PAGE 15 I love the limbo period between Christmas and New Year, and now that our children are grown-up it has become the time of my annual sofa indulgence. For me, decadence is more about gentle, homely treats and luxuries than wild extravagance, and it doesn't get much better than a break on the sofa under one of my colourful quilts with a good supply of wine, chocolate, books and knitting. www.yarnstormpress.co.uk A truly decadent indulgence would be to fly to Venice for the day, on a week-day, with a dear friend; to go to the Rialto market for a feast for the eyes and the senses; to visit Le Stanze del Vetro on Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore, to eat a scrumptious squid-ink pasta at my favourite restaurant down a small calle, or street, near Santa Maria Formosa; to stroll in Dorsoduro, to have tea on the Bauer’s Palazzo terrace facing the Salute, and to go to La Fenice for a performance of Bellini's I Puritan. I am lucky, in that where I live now is a great setting for Christmas. Home is on a small island near Stockholm where elks and deer live peacefully alongside us humans – just so long as we don’t get too near. A visit to Paris – where I lived for twenty years – always feels glamorous; it is an exciting city that continually draws me back, I always discover new, brilliant facets far from its ‘destinations’. Wherever I am in the world a couple of oysters and a glass of wine is always the ultimate indulgence. SELVEDGE 3 SELVEDGE 3

BIAS

CONTRIBUTORS

We asked our contributors: How do you indulge at Christmas?

As someone who is drawn to a natural sparse aesthetic, bling can be a bit of a challenge. But it is good to step out of your comfort zone once in a while and Christmas is the time do it. In this issue we embrace hedonism and indulgence. We take inspiration from the most decadent of decades; the 1920s, with a new exhibition The Jazz

Age at the Fashion and Textile Museum, whose curator Dennis Nothdruft introduces us to the glitz and the glamour. Dani Trew examines how contemporary designers are taking inspiration from the era. Any magpie would tell you that the appeal of the shiny is not new and Sarah Jane Downing traces the history of the sequin from Elizabethan times to the present. Further back we discover Opus Anglicanum, the height of English embroidery and the ultimate mastery of goldwork. Today in the age of digital embroidery it is exciting to see designers such as Alice Archer interpreting the art form in a new and relevant way.

JANE BROCKET PAGE 74

We look behind the scenes at the detailed costumes made for TV and film by Cosprop as well as their hard-wearing yet equally impactful designs for staged productions. On another scale entirely we talk to the costume designer Deborah Cook who designs in miniature for animation, an approach not dissimilar to that used for fashion dolls since the thirteenth century. Finally Jane Brocket reflects on the symbolic power of embroidery in literature and we celebrate the work of Dorothy Whipple in a soon-tobe published compilation of her short stories, offered to our first one hundred three-year subscribers from Persephone books.

NOELLE HOEPPE PAGE 56

I wish you a sparkling Christmas and hope to see you at our Advent Festival.

Polly Leonard, Founder

THOMAS STRAUB PAGE 15

I love the limbo period between Christmas and New Year, and now that our children are grown-up it has become the time of my annual sofa indulgence. For me, decadence is more about gentle, homely treats and luxuries than wild extravagance, and it doesn't get much better than a break on the sofa under one of my colourful quilts with a good supply of wine, chocolate, books and knitting. www.yarnstormpress.co.uk

A truly decadent indulgence would be to fly to Venice for the day, on a week-day, with a dear friend; to go to the Rialto market for a feast for the eyes and the senses; to visit Le Stanze del Vetro on Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore, to eat a scrumptious squid-ink pasta at my favourite restaurant down a small calle, or street, near Santa Maria Formosa; to stroll in Dorsoduro, to have tea on the Bauer’s Palazzo terrace facing the Salute, and to go to La Fenice for a performance of Bellini's I Puritan.

I am lucky, in that where I live now is a great setting for Christmas. Home is on a small island near Stockholm where elks and deer live peacefully alongside us humans – just so long as we don’t get too near. A visit to Paris – where I lived for twenty years – always feels glamorous; it is an exciting city that continually draws me back, I always discover new, brilliant facets far from its ‘destinations’. Wherever I am in the world a couple of oysters and a glass of wine is always the ultimate indulgence.

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