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Issue 62 2018 CONTENTS

Features

102 FACE TO FACE MICHEL CHAPOUTIER: STAY ON YOUR TOES Margaret Rand meets the great Rhône winemaker and pieces together the key events in his life and career—from buying out his father at the family domaine, to his conversion to biodynamics and his love of art.

106 BURGUNDY PORTRAIT PIERRE DUROCHÉ Jon Wyand photographs the intrepid vigneron as he indulges his passion for climbing.

108 FERMENT WHY WAIT? THE GREAT BOTTLING TIME DEBATE Too many producers think they need to hold onto wines before release to ensure a serious reputation, even if they are a joy to drink when in the first flush of youth, says Terry Theise, who puts the case for greater flexibility in bottling times and drinking windows.

112 THEN AND NOW LUBRICATING DIPLOMACY: THE USES OF WINE Kathleen Burk explores the crucial role wine has played in diplomacy—from Renaissance royal courts, to the embassies of today.

122 OAK IN CHAMPAGNE: COUPS DE FOUDRE Whether it’s to provide a point of difference, to add texture, or, counterintuitively, to bring greater raciness and tension, there are many reasons why Champagne producers might use oak, explains Margaret Rand.

128 SOUTH AMERICA: TERROIR RISING North, south, east, and west; into the Andes and along the coast, the winemakers of both Argentina and Chile have greatly expanded their vineyard area over the past two decades, making for ever-more interesting, terroirfocused wine, reports Tim Atkin MW.

136 ESCAPING THE DOWNWARD SPIRAL: ON NOT DRINKING What are the motivating principles of teetotalism? Stuart Walton reflects on the cultural history of abstention—from antiquity, to the recovery programs of the present era.

146 GENIUS LOCI SPITZERBERG: A SLEEPING BEAUTY AWAKES Anne Krebiehl MW on the Lower Austrian region that has emerged from the doldrums thanks to a group of pioneering producers who have proved its affinity with Blaufränkisch.

154 ANGELS’ SHARE GROWING GROWER COGNAC They may be small in size, number, and market share, but like their peers in Champagne, Cognac’s grower-producers are behind some of the category’s most exciting releases, says Jim Clarke. But in a category dominated by big brands, can they reach a wider audience? Photography

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4 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 62 | 2018

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