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Issue 62 2018



10 CONTRIBUTORS The tasters and writers in this issue.

18 NOUVEAU Jordan Mackay on La Paulée de San Francisco 2018 and highlights of La Paulée de New York 2019; Charles Metcalfe on Tawny and white Port; Tom Stevenson on the 2018 Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships results; the 2018 World’s Best Wine Lists 2018; Edward Ragg on the 2018 Gaggenau Sommelier Awards; the 2018 Louis Roederer International Wine Writers’ Awards; Kerin O’Keefe on Giuseppe Rinaldi.

46 LIQUID ASSETS BURGUNDY STILL THE DRIVING FORCE IN A WIDER MARKET Ella Lister looks back on the latest quarter of developments in the auction and fine-wine trading market.

54 PREVIEW Stuart Walton on Making Taste Public: Ethnographies of Food and the Senses, edited by Carole Counihan and Susanne Højlund; Joanna Simon on Champagne Hiking, by Richard Juhlin; Michael Edwards on A Celebration of English Wine, by Liz Sagues, and The Essential

Guide to English Wine, by Susie Barrie MW and Peter Richards MW; David Williams on Godforsaken Grapes: A Slightly Tipsy Journey Through the World of Strange, Obscure, and Underappreciated Wine by Jason Wilson, 101 Wines to Try Before You Die by Margaret Rand, and 101 Champagnes & Other Sparkling Wines to Try Before You Die by Davy Zyw; Simon Field MW on Krug limited-edition cases; Michael Edwards on Gosset Grand Blanc de Meunier, AR Lenoble Blanc de Blancs Chouilly Grand Cru Mag 14 and Intense Mag 14, and Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore Rosé 2006; Anthony Rose on Bruno Paillard Dosage Zero; Ken Gargett on the 2018 Penfolds Collection.

78 REVIEW Tim Hall on 1988 prestige cuvée Champagne; Ella Lister on 20th-century Château Latour 1905–91; Michael Schuster on Tapanappa 2010–17; Axel Probst on Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Port 1931–2016.

16 L’ÂME DU VIN ON PURITY Harry Eyres on a concept with scientific, moral, and aesthetic applications.

44 PRISE DE MOUSSE APPELLATIONISM I: THE TYRANNY OF TYPICITY Do appellations, paradoxically, work against a sense of place, asks David Schildknecht.

76 À LA VOLÉE GOODBYE OCTOBER, HELLO AUGUST! Tom Stevenson on the effects of ever-earlier harvests in Champagne.

100 MYTHS AND REALITIES BRANDING ÜBER ALLES Benjamin Lewin MW on the conflict between brand and source on wine labels.

144 GOOD HOPE VARIETY SHOW? Tim James on how Cape producers go about avoiding varietal labeling.

218 FINISH SILK PURSE OR SOW’S EAR? Michel Bettane on the 2018 French vintage.


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