“I remember being about 16 and seeing images from one of BodyMap’s shows in a knitwear book – from that point I photocopied everything I could find about the world they created,” says Matty Bovan of his introduction to the cult label’s work. “I wanted to wear their clothes so badly!”
Founded by Stevie Stewart and David Holah in the early 80s, BodyMap was beloved by London’s Blitz Kids for its anarchicspiritandone-size-fits-allethos.Renownedfor its wildly hued, pumped-up proportions and radical take on inclusivity, thelabelsparkedconversationsonbodypositivity long before it became little more than a pseudo-progressive, commercialised movement.
Fast forward nearly four decades, and Bovan is emphatically flying that same flag. “It’s all about a cacophony of texture and colour,” he says of his namesake label, which pushes the female silhouette in new and unexpected directions. For AW19, layers of salvaged tulle and duchess satin bunched at models’ hips,whileknittedsweaterswithexaggeratedshoulderswere emblazoned with digitally manipulated Liberty prints.
“Assoonaswearrivedanddecantedourarchivepieces from matching Ikea bags there was a connection,” says camerashy Stewart, who called upon label muse Pippa Brooks for this shoot.“Inanindustrythat’sfullofcorporatefashionwith no passion, Matty is very exciting.”
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