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Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs

Art and Architecture Cover Story: Charmer Chameleon

How JF Lewis loved to paint himself into the picture, by Briony Llewellyn · 42

The Oldest Temple on Earth?

Barnaby Rogerson marvels at the mysteries of Göbekli Tepe · 50

Secret Chambers of the Black Eunuchs Berrin Torolsan peers into the Topkapı Harem’s forbidden halls · 64

Eye of the Beholder

The visionary photographs of Yıldız Moran, by Jamie Leptien · 110


Ingres meets Matisse; cosmic kilims; stars of the saleroom; the many faces of Mihri Rasim; the carpet buff’s bible turns 40; how Ara Güler woke up in Aphrodisias; İnci Eviner turns art inside out · 5


Notes on a Life in Music Christian Tyler meets the formidable pianist İdil Biret · 22 Heads Up The marvellously mad hats of Merve and Yasemin Bayındır, by Nilgin Yusuf · 124 The Infinite Skies David Barchard’s tribute to the late Kaili Kidner, pioneering balloonist · 130


Ottoman Baroque; Turkey’s beautiful game; a long view of the economy; a long, hard road for refugees.

By Tim Stanley, David Barchard and Roger Norman · 27

Travellers’ Tales

A Room of His Own ‘How my grandfather took Iznik to Yorkshire’ by Christopher Simon Sykes · 30

The Wild, Wild East What early travellers saw in Byzantine Anatolia, by Robert Ousterhout · 36


She’ll be Coming Round the Mountain Raf Jah boards the Eastern Express · 58 Lords of the Wings Gernant Magnin on the art of falconry in Turkey’s Eastern Black Sea Mountains · 88

The Road to Ruins Francis Russell drives the highways and byways of Rough Cilicia · 94 A Great Escape Henry Maguire’s diary of a teenage road trip across Sixties Anatolia · 100


Shepherd’s Delight Berrin Torolsan on the wonders of white cheese · 116

Regulars Private View by Andrew Finkel · 20

Letter from Central Asia A tale of one city, by Caroline Eden · 122 Letter from Anatolia You’re welcome to the digital world, by Roger Norman · 129 Eating Out Wrapped in mystery. Andrew Finkel’s search for the perfect kokoreç · 133

Sound Bites John Shakespeare Dyson’s round-up of Istanbul’s musical year · 136

Cover Double portrait of Marian Lewis, detail from Hhareem Life, Constantinople, by JF Lewis, 1857 – see page 43

Laing Art Gallery, Newcastle-upon-Tyne, UK © Tyne &Wear Archives & Museums / Bridgeman

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