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Contents TURKEY FOR CONNOISSEURS

CRIMEA

A CELEBRATION

INTRODUCTION · 39 TRAVEL DIARY Nine Days in Crimea · 44 THE HEARTLAND Bahc;esaray and the Crimean Khanate · 48

THE SOUTH COAST The Yalta Riviera, the palaces of Alupka and Livadia, and Chekhov's dacha· 74 THE WEST COAST Sevastopol, Balaklava and Yevpatoria, and the battlefields of the Crimean War,

with commentary by Algernon Percy, David Barchard and Mesut Uyar · 92

EASTERN CRIMEA AND THE KERCH PENINSULA Genoese ports, Tatar towns and the great steppe· n6

PLUS Crimean wine, by Kevin Gould· I36 Books on the khanate, by Denise Klein· I38

ART AND ARCHITECTURE THE UNLIKELY SAVIOUR OF SANCTA SOPHIA

Thomas Whittemore and the mosaics of Ayasofya, by Robert S Nelson· 26

INTO THE SILENCE

The Baksi Museum: modern art in the middle of nowhere, by Michael Hornsby · I 5 2

CONNOISSEUR

Timurid art in Edinburgh, Turkish design in Bloomsbury, Sagalassos and Istanbul in black and white, and the pick of the London sales · 5

PALACE SILK Min Hogg on Ottoman embroideries · 6 PARISIAN PANACHE Tim Stanley reviews the Louvre's new Islamic galleries· II THE DUTCH ORIENTALIST Aad Streefland tells the story of Marius Bauer · I 6

MODERN HEROES

John Carswell on the origins of the Ancient & Modern research prize· I74

BOOKS

PRINCE ON TouR Philip Mansel on the future Edward VII's Ottoman expedition· I9 BELL LETTRES David S Katz on William Ramsey and Gertrude Bell's 'Thousand and One Churches'· 20

CITY OF THE SUBLIME Caroline Finkel on the birth of Ottoman Istanbul · 22

A THOUSAND AND ONE DELIGHTS Berrin Torolsan on a new history of Turkish sweets and desserts· q8

COOKERY

HEAVENLY BERRIES Berrin Torolsan on the joy of mulberries· qo

REGULARS

LETTER FROM ANATOLIA by Roger Norman· 34 PRIVATE VIEW by Andrew Finkel· I6I

ARTS DIARY by Michael Hornsby· I64 EATING OuT by Andrew Finkel· I69 THE CORNUCOPIA SLEEPOVER by Andrew Finkel· I70 VILLAGE VOICES by Azize Ethem · I73 Cover: The hill of Ayu Dag1 from the Pushkin Grotto at Gurzuf, in Crimea, from Carlo Bossoli's book 'The Beautiful Scenery and Chief Places of Interest throughout the Crimea', London I 8 5 6 (Buccleuch Collection)

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