Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs
A Black Sea miracle: how the birds of the Kızılırmak Delta made their comeback · 48
Tales from the Birdman, by Emin Yoğurtcuoğlu · 66 Three Days that Saved the World, by Caterina Scaramelli · 72
Riders of the Lost Paths
The photographer Mark Cator travels on horseback through the valleys of ancient Phrygia,
and Patricia Daunt recalls the intrepid riders who inspired the journey · 92
Art and Architecture
The Painter who Vanished
Joseph Schranz and his magnificent Bosphorus panoramas, by Briony Llewellyn · 30
The Sleeping Beauty
The Kavafyan Konak, oldest house on the Bosphorus, awaits the kiss of life. By Burak Çetintaş · 76
Ottomans at Versailles; colourful Kütahya; a sultan’s search for his roots;
Osman Hamdi Bey beneath the veneer; Istanbul goes swimming;
a Palace secretary’s indiscreet memoir · 5
People The Summer of Love
Rupert Scott talks to the charismatic Iris Love about Aphrodite · 42
Lenin’s Eminence Grise Norman Stone on the wily Parvus Efendi · 112
Malika Browne on a biography of the artist Fahrelnissa Zeid; Jason Goodwin on Empress of the East, a life of the slave girl who married a sultan; Barnaby Rogerson on Francis Russell’s 123 Places, and on the search for Rome’s eastern frontier;
David Barchard on Ottoman Turkey as Britain imagined her · 21
Happiness is Pear-Shaped Berrin Torolsan turns poacher and pickler · 114
Eating Out New finds in Istanbul, by Andrew Finkel · 121 Village Voices Azize Ethem on Uncle Henry and the Cicero Affair · 123
Letter from Anatolia By Roger Norman · 125
Private View by Andrew Finkel · 128
Cover A black tern (Chlidonias niger) on the Kızılırmak Delta, photographed by Emin Yoğurtcuoğlu. See ‘Waterworld’, page 58
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