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Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs Vernacular to Spectacular Vernacular to Spectacular People People A Life in Tents Peter and Mügül Andrews, by Christian Tyler? · 4 Lenin’s Eminence Grise Parvus Efendi, by Norman Stone · 28 A Life in Tents Peter and Mügül Andrews, by Christian Tyler? · 4 Lenin’s Eminence Grise Parvus Efendi, by Norman Stone · 28 Designs on the Empire Designs on the Empire Pieter Coecke van Aelst: the artist who spied on the Sultan? By Annick Born · 60 Pieter Coecke van Aelst: the artist who spied on the Sultan? By Annick Born · 60 A Haven in the Levant A Haven in the Levant John Carswell recalls the Sixties in a Lebanese fishing village · 90 John Carswell recalls the Sixties in a Lebanese fishing village · 90 Places Cover Story Good Vibrations Places Cover Story Good Vibrations Istanbul’s new creative quarter, by Katie Nadworny and Monica Fritz · 32 Istanbul’s new creative quarter, by Katie Nadworny and Monica Fritz · 32 Aphrodite’s City Aphrodite’s City Patricia Daunt on how Aphrodisias is being rediscovered · 44 Patricia Daunt on how Aphrodisias is being rediscovered · 44 The City of a Thousand and One Churches The City of a Thousand and One Churches Brian McKee captures the monuments of Ani. Robert Ousterhout tells their story · 70 Brian McKee captures the monuments of Ani. Robert Ousterhout tells their story · 70 Views and Reviews Views and Reviews Lawrence of Anatolia The young TE Lawrence, by Anthony Sattin · 35 Underground Perspective Cappadocia revealed, by Henry Maguire · 44 How it Felt to be There Love and politics in Seventies Istanbul, by Maureen Freely · 47 Lawrence of Anatolia The young TE Lawrence, by Anthony Sattin · 35 Underground Perspective Cappadocia revealed, by Henry Maguire · 44 How it Felt to be There Love and politics in Seventies Istanbul, by Maureen Freely · 47 A ROOM WITH A VIEW A ROOM WITH A VIEW A ROOM WITH A VIEW A ROOM WITH A VIEW Madness in Motion A case of magical realism, by Katie Nadworny? · 49 Dramas in the Dust Ahmet Ersoy on the sad story of a photographer and archaeologist · 49 Madness in Motion A case of magical realism, by Katie Nadworny? · 49 Dramas in the Dust Ahmet Ersoy on the sad story of a photographer and archaeologist · 49 Glamorous Loft Suites in the Swissôtel The Bosphorus Istanbul’s restyled West Wing bring high-life loft living Glamorous Loft Suites in the Swissôtel The Bosphorus Istanbul’s restyled West Wing bring high-life loft living Glamorous Loft Suites in the Swissôtel The Bosphorus Istanbul’s restyled West Wing bring high-life loft living Glamorous Loft Suites in the Swissôtel The Bosphorus Istanbul’s restyled West Wing bring high-life loft living to the shores of the Turkish metropolis. Conceived by the celebrated interior designer Khuan Chew to the shores of the Turkish metropolis. Conceived by the celebrated interior designer Khuan Chew to the shores of the Turkish metropolis. Conceived by the celebrated interior designer Khuan Chew to the shores of the Turkish metropolis. Conceived by the celebrated interior designer Khuan Chew of KCA International, they fuse the very best of Swiss sophistication, precision and simplicity with the warmth of Turkish culture. In Chew’s new contemporary look, with the emphasis on floor-to-ceiling of KCA International, they fuse the very best of Swiss sophistication, precision and simplicity with the warmth of Turkish culture. In Chew’s new contemporary look, with the emphasis on floor-to-ceiling of KCA International, they fuse the very best of Swiss sophistication, precision and simplicity with the warmth of Turkish culture. In Chew’s new contemporary look, with the emphasis on floor-to-ceiling of KCA International, they fuse the very best of Swiss sophistication, precision and simplicity with the warmth of Turkish culture. In Chew’s new contemporary look, with the emphasis on floor-to-ceiling Wine and Food Turkey’s Wine Renaissance Wine and Food Turkey’s Wine Renaissance windows in every room and suite, a shimmering Bosphorus forms the backdrop to exquisite design. windows in every room and suite, a shimmering Bosphorus forms the backdrop to exquisite design. windows in every room and suite, a shimmering Bosphorus forms the backdrop to exquisite design. windows in every room and suite, a shimmering Bosphorus forms the backdrop to exquisite design. Kevin Gould celebrates the revival of native grapes in a special Cornucopia wine report · 98 Kevin Gould celebrates the revival of native grapes in a special Cornucopia wine report · 98 A Golden Glow Berrin Torolsan on the aura of apricots · 98 A Golden Glow Berrin Torolsan on the aura of apricots · 98 Regulars Connoisseur · 6 Private View by Andrew Finkel · 31 Village Voices by Azize Ethem · 133 Letter from Anatolia by Roger Norman · 120 Regulars Connoisseur · 6 Private View by Andrew Finkel · 31 Village Voices by Azize Ethem · 133 Letter from Anatolia by Roger Norman · 120 Eating Out by Andrew Finkel · 136 Eating Out by Andrew Finkel · 136 Cover Haydaşa Station, by Barış Suyabatmaz, in the Garda Café, Yeldeğirmeni, Istanbul. Photograph: Monica Frtiz – page32 Swissôtel, The Bosphorus, Istanbul Cover Haydaşa Station, by Barış Suyabatmaz, in the Garda Café, Yeldeğirmeni, Istanbul. Photograph: Monica Frtiz – page32 Swissôtel, The Bosphorus, Istanbul Swissôtel, The Bosphorus, Istanbul Tel +90 212 326 1100 . Fax +90 212 326 1122 Swissôtel, The Bosphorus, Istanbul Tel +90 212 326 1100 . Fax +90 212 326 1122 Tel +90 212 326 1100 . Fax +90 212 326 1122 Tel +90 212 326 1100 . Fax +90 212 326 1122 www.swissotel.com/istanbul www.swissotel.com/istanbul www.swissotel.com/istanbul www.swissotel.com/istanbul istanbul@swissotel.com istanbul@swissotel.com istanbul@swissotel.com istanbul@swissotel.com
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Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs WILD PLACES Waterworld A Black Sea miracle: how the birds of the Kızılırmak Delta made their comeback · 48 Tales from the Birdman, by Emin Yoğurtcuoğlu · 66 Three Days that Saved the World, by Caterina Scaramelli · 72 Riders of the Lost Paths The photographer Mark Cator travels on horseback through the valleys of ancient Phrygia, and Patricia Daunt recalls the intrepid riders who inspired the journey · 92 Art and Architecture The Painter who Vanished Joseph Schranz and his magnificent Bosphorus panoramas, by Briony Llewellyn · 30 The Sleeping Beauty The Kavafyan Konak, oldest house on the Bosphorus, awaits the kiss of life. By Burak Çetintaş · 76 Connoisseur Ottomans at Versailles; colourful Kütahya; a sultan’s search for his roots; Osman Hamdi Bey beneath the veneer; Istanbul goes swimming; a Palace secretary’s indiscreet memoir · 5 People The Summer of Love Rupert Scott talks to the charismatic Iris Love about Aphrodite · 42 Lenin’s Eminence Grise Norman Stone on the wily Parvus Efendi · 112 Books Malika Browne on a biography of the artist Fahrelnissa Zeid; Jason Goodwin on Empress of the East, a life of the slave girl who married a sultan; Barnaby Rogerson on Francis Russell’s 123 Places, and on the search for Rome’s eastern frontier; David Barchard on Ottoman Turkey as Britain imagined her · 21 Cookery Happiness is Pear-Shaped Berrin Torolsan turns poacher and pickler · 114 Regulars Eating Out New finds in Istanbul, by Andrew Finkel · 121 Village Voices Azize Ethem on Uncle Henry and the Cicero Affair · 123 Letter from Anatolia By Roger Norman · 125 Private View by Andrew Finkel · 128 Cover A black tern (Chlidonias niger) on the Kızılırmak Delta, photographed by Emin Yoğurtcuoğlu. See ‘Waterworld’, page 58

Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs

Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs

Vernacular to Spectacular

Vernacular to Spectacular

People

People

A Life in Tents Peter and Mügül Andrews, by Christian Tyler? · 4 Lenin’s Eminence Grise Parvus Efendi, by Norman Stone · 28

A Life in Tents Peter and Mügül Andrews, by Christian Tyler? · 4 Lenin’s Eminence Grise Parvus Efendi, by Norman Stone · 28

Designs on the Empire

Designs on the Empire

Pieter Coecke van Aelst: the artist who spied on the Sultan? By Annick Born · 60

Pieter Coecke van Aelst: the artist who spied on the Sultan? By Annick Born · 60

A Haven in the Levant

A Haven in the Levant

John Carswell recalls the Sixties in a Lebanese fishing village · 90

John Carswell recalls the Sixties in a Lebanese fishing village · 90

Places Cover Story Good Vibrations

Places Cover Story Good Vibrations

Istanbul’s new creative quarter, by Katie Nadworny and Monica Fritz · 32

Istanbul’s new creative quarter, by Katie Nadworny and Monica Fritz · 32

Aphrodite’s City

Aphrodite’s City

Patricia Daunt on how Aphrodisias is being rediscovered · 44

Patricia Daunt on how Aphrodisias is being rediscovered · 44

The City of a Thousand and One Churches

The City of a Thousand and One Churches

Brian McKee captures the monuments of Ani. Robert Ousterhout tells their story · 70

Brian McKee captures the monuments of Ani. Robert Ousterhout tells their story · 70

Views and Reviews

Views and Reviews

Lawrence of Anatolia The young TE Lawrence, by Anthony Sattin · 35 Underground Perspective Cappadocia revealed, by Henry Maguire · 44 How it Felt to be There Love and politics in Seventies Istanbul, by Maureen Freely · 47

Lawrence of Anatolia The young TE Lawrence, by Anthony Sattin · 35 Underground Perspective Cappadocia revealed, by Henry Maguire · 44 How it Felt to be There Love and politics in Seventies Istanbul, by Maureen Freely · 47

A ROOM WITH A VIEW

A ROOM WITH A VIEW

A ROOM WITH A VIEW

A ROOM WITH A VIEW

Madness in Motion A case of magical realism, by Katie Nadworny? · 49 Dramas in the Dust Ahmet Ersoy on the sad story of a photographer and archaeologist · 49

Madness in Motion A case of magical realism, by Katie Nadworny? · 49 Dramas in the Dust Ahmet Ersoy on the sad story of a photographer and archaeologist · 49

Glamorous Loft Suites in the Swissôtel The Bosphorus Istanbul’s restyled West Wing bring high-life loft living

Glamorous Loft Suites in the Swissôtel The Bosphorus Istanbul’s restyled West Wing bring high-life loft living

Glamorous Loft Suites in the Swissôtel The Bosphorus Istanbul’s restyled West Wing bring high-life loft living

Glamorous Loft Suites in the Swissôtel The Bosphorus Istanbul’s restyled West Wing bring high-life loft living to the shores of the Turkish metropolis. Conceived by the celebrated interior designer Khuan Chew to the shores of the Turkish metropolis. Conceived by the celebrated interior designer Khuan Chew to the shores of the Turkish metropolis. Conceived by the celebrated interior designer Khuan Chew to the shores of the Turkish metropolis. Conceived by the celebrated interior designer Khuan Chew of KCA International, they fuse the very best of Swiss sophistication, precision and simplicity with the warmth of Turkish culture. In Chew’s new contemporary look, with the emphasis on floor-to-ceiling of KCA International, they fuse the very best of Swiss sophistication, precision and simplicity with the warmth of Turkish culture. In Chew’s new contemporary look, with the emphasis on floor-to-ceiling of KCA International, they fuse the very best of Swiss sophistication, precision and simplicity with the warmth of Turkish culture. In Chew’s new contemporary look, with the emphasis on floor-to-ceiling of KCA International, they fuse the very best of Swiss sophistication, precision and simplicity with the warmth of Turkish culture. In Chew’s new contemporary look, with the emphasis on floor-to-ceiling

Wine and Food Turkey’s Wine Renaissance

Wine and Food Turkey’s Wine Renaissance windows in every room and suite, a shimmering Bosphorus forms the backdrop to exquisite design.

windows in every room and suite, a shimmering Bosphorus forms the backdrop to exquisite design.

windows in every room and suite, a shimmering Bosphorus forms the backdrop to exquisite design.

windows in every room and suite, a shimmering Bosphorus forms the backdrop to exquisite design.

Kevin Gould celebrates the revival of native grapes in a special Cornucopia wine report · 98

Kevin Gould celebrates the revival of native grapes in a special Cornucopia wine report · 98

A Golden Glow Berrin Torolsan on the aura of apricots · 98

A Golden Glow Berrin Torolsan on the aura of apricots · 98

Regulars Connoisseur · 6 Private View by Andrew Finkel · 31 Village Voices by Azize Ethem · 133 Letter from Anatolia by Roger Norman · 120

Regulars Connoisseur · 6 Private View by Andrew Finkel · 31 Village Voices by Azize Ethem · 133 Letter from Anatolia by Roger Norman · 120

Eating Out by Andrew Finkel · 136

Eating Out by Andrew Finkel · 136

Cover Haydaşa Station, by Barış Suyabatmaz, in the Garda Café, Yeldeğirmeni, Istanbul. Photograph: Monica Frtiz – page32 Swissôtel, The Bosphorus, Istanbul

Cover Haydaşa Station, by Barış Suyabatmaz, in the Garda Café, Yeldeğirmeni, Istanbul. Photograph: Monica Frtiz – page32 Swissôtel, The Bosphorus, Istanbul

Swissôtel, The Bosphorus, Istanbul Tel +90 212 326 1100 . Fax +90 212 326 1122

Swissôtel, The Bosphorus, Istanbul Tel +90 212 326 1100 . Fax +90 212 326 1122

Tel +90 212 326 1100 . Fax +90 212 326 1122

Tel +90 212 326 1100 . Fax +90 212 326 1122

www.swissotel.com/istanbul www.swissotel.com/istanbul www.swissotel.com/istanbul www.swissotel.com/istanbul istanbul@swissotel.com istanbul@swissotel.com istanbul@swissotel.com istanbul@swissotel.com

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