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G o r g e o u s kn i t t i n g , c r o c h e t & e mb r o i d e r y s u p p l i e s LOOPKNITTING.COM LONDON, ENGLAND Cover: Frida leaning on a sculpture by Mardonio Magaña, Coyoacán. Photo by Nickolas Muray; © Nickolas Muray Photo Archives Selvedge Magazine 14 Milton Park, Highgate, London, N6 5QA T: +44 (0)20 3790 8659 www.selvedge.org Publisher: Selvedge Ltd Founder: Polly Leonard editor@selvedge.org Features Editor: Laura Gray editorial@selvedge.org Head of Communications: Clare Bungey advertising@selvedge.org Events Director: Penny Gray events@selvedge.org Head of Special Projects: Ronja Brown shop@selvedge.org Editorial Assistant: Jessica Edney assistant@selvedge.org Customer Service: Minna Stubina customerservice@selvedge.org Proofreader: Liberty Leonard-Shaw (ISSN No: 1742-254X, USPS No: 21430) is published bi-monthly - January, March, May, July, September & November - by Selvedge Ltd, UK and is distributed in the USA by RRD/Spatial, 1250 Valley Brook Ave, Lyndhurst NJ 07071. Periodicals postage paid at South Hackensack, NJ 07606. POSTMASTER: send address changes to selvedge, c/o RRD, 1250 Valley Brook Ave, Lyndhurst NJ 07071. Registered Office 14 Milton Park, Highgate, London, N6 5QA. Copyright © Selvedge Ltd 2019. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any material submitted. The editor’s decision on all printed material is final. The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of Selvedge magazine, Selvedge Ltd or the editor. Unsolicited material will be considered but cannot be returned. Printing: Westdale Press Ltd UK. Colour Origination: PH Media. Distribution: Spatial Mail. Postmaster send address corrections to Selvedge Magazine, Spatial House, Willow Farm Business Park, Castle Donnington, Derby, DE74 2TW. Subscription rates for one year (6 issues): Paper Magazine, UK £70.00; Europe €100.00; USA & Rest of World £120.00
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BIAS CONTRIBUTORS We asked our contributors: arie Taillefer M In the year that the Bauhaus celebrates its centenary there are commemorative exhibitions and events taking place around the world. The school founded by the architect Walter Gropius in Weimar, Germany, in 1919, was in operation for just 14 years before it was closed down by the National Socialist Party. Nonetheless, it is considered to be the most influential art and design school in history. Ironically, the closing of the school led to its influence disseminating widely. Its founding principle that there should be no distinction between form and function is common and widespread today, but was revolutionary at the time. We catch up with the Bauhaus alumni in mid-century Mexico, where the creativity of Clara Porset, Anni Albers and Cynthia Sargent, collided to create a design aesthetic that permeates every aspect of contemporary Mexican society. This aesthetic is rooted in an appreciation of materials, and a specific colour palette that originates in local flora and fauna, and is made up of indigo, cochineal and sea snail purple. Technical virtuosity has been inherited alongside a respect for the wisdom of the elders, as described in Eric Mindling’s charming story. These elements ricochet in the striking contemporary designs of Fernando Laposse and Casilda Mut. I am grateful to Marcella Echavarria who co-edited this issue. Without her enthusiasm, knowledge and hard work, our insight into this incredible culture would not have been possible. I have learned much from Marcella’s passion for the music, food, culture and crafts of Mexico and I am delighted to share with you the intensity and energy of this extraordinary country. Polly Leonard, Founder MARCELLA ECHAVARRIA ANNE MENKE NORMA SCHAFER ANA ELENA MALLET I have lived in Mexico for 15 years and am in love with the culture, the people, the music, the food! Mexico is just rich in everything. I have travelled to many remote places in the mountains and on the coast to see the different indigenous tribes. You can find the most amazing textiles and embroideries in each of their cultures. For a fashion photographer, Mexico is an endless inspiration for photographs, decorating and styling. My invitation to photograph the Huichol people in the mountains of Nayarit is a highlight of my travels in Mexico. Mexico is a place of warmth, welcome, and limitless possibility for creativity, where talented artisans make beauty from simple raw materials, often while existing in basic living conditions. They are innovators who use local, organic materials and adapt ancient designs for contemporary use. Mexican artisans have a deep respect for heritage and the value of transmitting culture to their children. They are role models for living with sensitivity, sustainability, and heart. They inspire me to connect us to their world. Ana Hop I am an independent curator, critic and writer based in Mexico. I have curated exhibitions of modern and contemporary design here, including the country’s first exhibition dedicated exclusively to fashion. Mexico City is my hometown but also my inspiration. Everyday you can find things to discover. Traditions blend with contemporary life creating a new meaning for everything made here. From textiles to craft, from contemporary art to design, from street food to high end cuisine. Mexico is a full experience. SELVEDGE 3 SELVEDGE 3

BIAS

CONTRIBUTORS

We asked our contributors:

arie Taillefer

M

In the year that the Bauhaus celebrates its centenary there are commemorative exhibitions and events taking place around the world. The school founded by the architect Walter Gropius in Weimar, Germany, in 1919, was in operation for just 14 years before it was closed down by the National Socialist Party. Nonetheless, it is considered to be the most influential art and design school in history. Ironically, the closing of the school led to its influence disseminating widely. Its founding principle that there should be no distinction between form and function is common and widespread today, but was revolutionary at the time. We catch up with the Bauhaus alumni in mid-century Mexico, where the creativity of Clara Porset, Anni Albers and Cynthia Sargent, collided to create a design aesthetic that permeates every aspect of contemporary Mexican society. This aesthetic is rooted in an appreciation of materials, and a specific colour palette that originates in local flora and fauna, and is made up of indigo, cochineal and sea snail purple. Technical virtuosity has been inherited alongside a respect for the wisdom of the elders, as described in Eric Mindling’s charming story. These elements ricochet in the striking contemporary designs of Fernando Laposse and Casilda Mut. I am grateful to Marcella Echavarria who co-edited this issue. Without her enthusiasm, knowledge and hard work, our insight into this incredible culture would not have been possible. I have learned much from Marcella’s passion for the music, food, culture and crafts of Mexico and I am delighted to share with you the intensity and energy of this extraordinary country.

Polly Leonard, Founder

MARCELLA ECHAVARRIA

ANNE MENKE

NORMA SCHAFER

ANA ELENA MALLET

I have lived in Mexico for 15 years and am in love with the culture, the people, the music, the food! Mexico is just rich in everything. I have travelled to many remote places in the mountains and on the coast to see the different indigenous tribes. You can find the most amazing textiles and embroideries in each of their cultures. For a fashion photographer, Mexico is an endless inspiration for photographs, decorating and styling. My invitation to photograph the Huichol people in the mountains of Nayarit is a highlight of my travels in Mexico.

Mexico is a place of warmth, welcome, and limitless possibility for creativity, where talented artisans make beauty from simple raw materials, often while existing in basic living conditions. They are innovators who use local, organic materials and adapt ancient designs for contemporary use. Mexican artisans have a deep respect for heritage and the value of transmitting culture to their children. They are role models for living with sensitivity, sustainability, and heart. They inspire me to connect us to their world.

Ana Hop

I am an independent curator, critic and writer based in Mexico. I have curated exhibitions of modern and contemporary design here, including the country’s first exhibition dedicated exclusively to fashion. Mexico City is my hometown but also my inspiration. Everyday you can find things to discover. Traditions blend with contemporary life creating a new meaning for everything made here. From textiles to craft, from contemporary art to design, from street food to high end cuisine. Mexico is a full experience.

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