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Contents

TuRKEY FOR CoNNOISSEURS

CovER SToRY

lt's a Wonderfully Weird World: Andrew Finkel meets the Turkish artist Gürbüz Doğan Ekşioğlu · 36

PALACES OF DIPLOMACY A 50-PAGE GUIDE TO THE EMBASSIES OF ANKARA Patricia Daunt on how the diplomatic world upped sticks for the new capital · 40 The inside story: the finest embassies and how they came to be built, by Patricia Daunt · 44

Birth ofa Nation: how the Republic put Ankara on the map, by Narman Stone · 84

CROCKERY AND CROCUSES Martyn and Alison Rix on George Maw, a Victorian enthusiast · 90

THE LAND THAT MıoAs ToucHED A walk on the wild side in the Phrygian Highlands, by David Barchard · ıoo

Reviews THE STORY OF THE SMILING CAMEL

Harald Böhmer and the last nomads of Anatolia, by Robert Chenciner · 23

Ü UT OF THE SHADOWS

Gerald Fitzmaurice, embassy dragoman and eminence grise, by David Barchard · 30

TRAVELS ıN No-MAN's-LAND

Heath Lowry on a new guide to the Byzantine borderlands of Thrace · 3 2

Connoisseur

Exhibitions and salerooms in Landon, Berlin and Istanbul · 7

Colossal carpets: Daniel Shaffer on Istanbul's Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts · 14

John Carswell on Stockholm's splendid showing of blue and white porcelain · 16

Food The fragrant melon, by Berrin Torolsan · 110

Regulars VıLLAGE VoıcEs: Azize Ethem's Iznik diary · 119 RESTAURANTS: Andrew Finkel eats out in Alanya and Istanbul · 127

Too Gooo To BE MıssED: David Elliot's Turkish arts round-up · 128

Cover: The Letter, by Gürbüz Doğan Ekşioğlu - page 36

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