Contents TURKEY FOR CONNOISSEURS

COVER STORY

ISTANBUL'S GRAND HAMMAMS

Photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg

THE BATHS

Çemberlitaş: The Queen Mother's Baths · 46

Çinili Hammam: Barbarossa's Baths · 54

Galatasaray: Star Treatment · 66 Cağaloğlu: Dome of Baroque · 7 4

FıRsT-HAND AccouNTs

Lady Mary Wortley Montagu: Steaming in Sofia · 5 2

Charles White: How fellows take their baths · 62

Miss Pardoe has the vapours · 72

DIGGING F0R GLORY

How Charles Newton unearthed a Wonder of the Ancient World, by Rupert Scott · 82

THE GREAT BOSPHORUS MIGRATION Birds of passage, by Soner Bekir · 11 o

CONNOISSEUR EASTERN ENLIGHTENMENT

Philip Mansel on the Topkapı's show 'Selim III: Reformist, Poet, Musician' · 9

BooKs SPECIAL

TuRBULENT TıMES: David Barchard on the year that brought down the Ottomans · 21

THE PoETRY WITHIN: Berrin Torolsan ona romantic Aegean house · 24

AMBLER's lsTANBUL: Norman Stone on Journey into Fear · 30 Ü UR MAN IN HALICARNASSUS: Justin Marozzi on his hero Herodotus · 32

MARCH LORDS: Caroline Finkel on Balkan revelations · 3 6 ANCIENT RıGHTS: Christian Tyler on a new book about the antiquities debate · 3 7

FROM HEAVEN T0 HELL: David Barchard on Smyrna r922 · 38

Fooo & WıNE

Joy IN A BoTTLE: Kevin Gould on new wines from Bozcaada· 94 CELERY's SrnuNG: Berrin Torolsan on the story of celeriac · 100

REGULARS PRIVATE Vrnw: by Andrew Finkel · 18 VıLLAGE VoıcEs: Azize Ethem's Iznik Diary · 117

RESTAURANTS: The Style Revolution · 122

Cover: A child's hammam shoes, or nalın - see page 44

Photograph by Fritz von der Schulenburg. Courtesy of the Sadberk Hanım Museum, Istanbul