Contents TURKEY FOR CONNOISSEURS
COVER STORY
ISTANBUL'S GRAND HAMMAMS
Photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg
THE BATHS
Çemberlitaş: The Queen Mother's Baths · 46
Çinili Hammam: Barbarossa's Baths · 54
Galatasaray: Star Treatment · 66 Cağaloğlu: Dome of Baroque · 7 4
FıRsT-HAND AccouNTs
Lady Mary Wortley Montagu: Steaming in Sofia · 5 2
Charles White: How fellows take their baths · 62
Miss Pardoe has the vapours · 72
DIGGING F0R GLORY
How Charles Newton unearthed a Wonder of the Ancient World, by Rupert Scott · 82
THE GREAT BOSPHORUS MIGRATION Birds of passage, by Soner Bekir · 11 o
CONNOISSEUR EASTERN ENLIGHTENMENT
Philip Mansel on the Topkapı's show 'Selim III: Reformist, Poet, Musician' · 9
BooKs SPECIAL
TuRBULENT TıMES: David Barchard on the year that brought down the Ottomans · 21
THE PoETRY WITHIN: Berrin Torolsan ona romantic Aegean house · 24
AMBLER's lsTANBUL: Norman Stone on Journey into Fear · 30 Ü UR MAN IN HALICARNASSUS: Justin Marozzi on his hero Herodotus · 32
MARCH LORDS: Caroline Finkel on Balkan revelations · 3 6 ANCIENT RıGHTS: Christian Tyler on a new book about the antiquities debate · 3 7
FROM HEAVEN T0 HELL: David Barchard on Smyrna r922 · 38
Fooo & WıNE
Joy IN A BoTTLE: Kevin Gould on new wines from Bozcaada· 94 CELERY's SrnuNG: Berrin Torolsan on the story of celeriac · 100
REGULARS PRIVATE Vrnw: by Andrew Finkel · 18 VıLLAGE VoıcEs: Azize Ethem's Iznik Diary · 117
RESTAURANTS: The Style Revolution · 122
Cover: A child's hammam shoes, or nalın - see page 44
Photograph by Fritz von der Schulenburg. Courtesy of the Sadberk Hanım Museum, Istanbul