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Contents TURKEY FOR CONNOISSEURS

PEOPLE AND PLACES

COVER STORY A NOMAD AMONG NOMADS

The Anatolian photographs of Josephine Powell, by Andrew Finkel· 18

FAREWELL TO THE GUERRILLA GRANDEE The irreplaceable Patrick Leigh Fermor, by Roger Norman · 3 6

BLOODSHED IN THE BALKANS

A century on, David Barchard reflects on the forgotten First Balkan War· 43

THE DAREDEVIL SCHOLAR

Machiel Kiel, champion of Ottoman Albania, by Holta Vrioni · 13 2

ART

A DUTCH TREAT- 400 YEARS IN THE LEVANT Philip Mansel on why the Ottomans fell for the Dutch· 48

THE CURIOUS CABINET OF CORNELIS CALKOEN Eveline Sint Nicolaas on a flamboyant 18th-century envoy · 5 8

TRAVEL FLY IN THE FACE OF FASHION

In a 26-page special report, Patricia Daunt puts Ankara back on the map,

with photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg· 72

INTERIORS A MANSION OF PERFECT MODESTY

The gentle charms of the Sipahioglu Konak, by Berrin Torolsan · 98

FOOD AND WINE THE COOLEST THING Watermelons, by Berrin Torolsan · 120 THE WINES THEY ARE A-CHANGING by Kevin Gould· 127

REGULARS CONNOISSEUR · 7 PRIVATE Vrnw by Andrew Finkel· 14 STATE OF THE ARTS by Michael Hornsby · 16 BooK REVIEWS by Tim Stanley, Scott Redford, David Barchard,

Thomas Roueche and Barnaby Rogerson · 2 7 VILLAGE VOICES Azize Ethem's Iznik diary · 13 6 LETTER FROM ANATOLIA by Roger Norman· 139 EATING OuT Andrew Finkel on dining in Istanbul· 141

Cover: Josephine Powell, photographer and ethnographer.

Photograph courtesy of the Ko1; Research Center for Anatolian Civilizations, Istanbul. See page r8