TuRKEY FOR CoNNOISSEURS

Contents

Cover Story Power Dressing: the dramatic imperial kaftans on show at Washington's Sackler Gallery · 7

Cover photograph: detail ofa 16th- or 17th-century Ottoman silk kaftan, from the Topkapı Palace,

exhibited at the Arthur M Sackler Gallery

Special Feature

LAND OF A THOUSAND MANSIONS CouNTRY HousEs OF THE BLACK SEA A 40-page celebration of the architectural heritage of the Eastern Black Sea Mountains

Photographs by Ali Konyalı

Contributions by Mustafa Reşat Sümerkan and Michael Meeker · 40

Life and Times And Where Shall We Begin?

An appreciation of Godfrey Goodwin by Maureen Freely · 22

The Man Who Made Albania: Ismail Kemal's roller-coaster career, by David Barchard · 3 5

Painting his Way into History:

The private world of the dashing last Caliph, by Philip Mansel · 78

Architecture in the Wake of the Spirits: a beautiful small hotel on the Bosphorus, by Patricia Daunt · 98

Books

Reviews by Tim Stanley, Ilber Ortaylı, Robert Ousterhout, David Barchard,

Berrin T orolsan and Andrew Finkel · 2 7

Food Championed by the Cavalry: Winning ways with okra, by Berrin Torolsan · ıo8

Off the Eaten Track by Charles Perry · 120

Regulars CONNOISSEUR'S DIARY · 14 PRIVATE Vrnw by Andrew Finkel · 18 VıLLAGE VorcEs by Azize Ethem· ıı7 RESTAURANTS by Andrew Finkel and Christopher Ryan · 124