TURKEY F0R CONNOISSEURS

Contents

Cover Story An American Nomad: Josephine Powell,

by Andrew Finkel · 98

Features

From Lunacy to Diplomacy: How the Hôtel Lamballe became the Turkish embassy in Paris, by Patricia Daunt · 34 Beyond the Euphrates: Cafer Türkmen and Curt Kosswig in pursuit of the bald ibis and other animals · 48

Forgotten Corner ofa Foreign Land: the Turks of Thrace, by Owen Matthews · 78

Art

CoNNOISSEUR: Treasures from foreign collections are being lured back to Istanbul · 5

Painter in the Palace: Jean Baptiste Vanmour, by Philip Mansel · 10

Remarkable Lives

The Princely Pasha of Crete: Giritli Mustafa Naili Pasha, by David Barchard · 23

Ü FF THE EATEN TRACK: Charles Perry pays tribute to the food historian Alan Davidson · 126

Books

David Barchard on Emelia Hornby's 'Constantinople During the Crimean War' · 29

Maureen Freely on poetic collaborations · 30 Walter Denny on the powerful chemistry of Harald Böhmer · 3 o Antony Wynn on what Carole Blackwell heard from the women of Turkmenistan · 3 2

Cookery

Fruits of the Earth: the subtle sweetness of Jerusalem artichokes,

by Berrin Torolsan · 108

Regulars PRIVATE Vrnw by Andrew Finkel · 12 VıLLAGE VoıcEs by Azize Ethem· 117

Fooo F0R THOUGHT:

Andrew Finkel on moreish mezes, Hettie Judah on the new boho's habitat · 122

CovER

A woman visiting relatives in the village of Ergani, Diyarbakır, 1980. Photograph by Josephine Powell

See 'An American Nomad', page 98