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WanderSleeps: Snow & ice Winter is here! Brave the chill and hunker down in mountain-top towers, treetop boltholes and moving cabins in the coolest climes

Explore 23 Grapevine The latest news and trips in travel 28 Go now: Aqaba As lights double up, we revisit this city’s ancient and aquatic treasures 30 The trip Slow down and take your time on one of these extra-long journeys 36 Eat this Why a Mont Blanc tart is the tiny treat to reckon with this season 38 Head to head: Central American countries Costa Rica’s packed with oceanic beaches, but will it be Belize’s misty Mayan ruins that tempt you? 41 Dream sleep Epic views over Peru’s Sacred Valley await those who dare a stay at Skylodge Adventure Suites 42 Dispatches Encounter scarf-wearing chickens and storytellers alike in rural China

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Discover 162 Your travel tips How to get the most out of Central America, as told by you 165 Just back from Your tales from Albania 167 The Knowledge Tales from the road with Nitin Dhami, silver winner of this year’s World Guide Awards 168 Ask the experts From Indian bus journeys to Peruvian hikes, our experts have the tips to it your trips 170 Instant Expert Spin yourself into a frenzy with Turkey’s Whirling Dervishes 171 Health Dr Jane shares the lowdown on avoiding disease on your travels 172 Gear Our go-to gear guru/stand-in Santa wows with her Xmas gift round-up (warning: wrapping not included) 175 Travel books Hisham Matar inds hope in art in Siena; plus all the latest travel reads

WIN

Three trips from Exodus

Travels– worth up to

£20,000!p44 A trip to Kuala Lumpur and Penang, worth £5,500, with

Malaysian Airlines p86 A walking holiday for two in Portugal, worth £2,000 p148

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Speak your mind regardless of the consequences… conservation isn’t a popularity contest. For more from Kris Tompkins, see our interview on page 34

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This issue mapped

Albania

Antarctica

Aqaba

Argentina

Australia

Belarus

Belize

Canada

Cape Town

Chile

China

Colombia

Costa Rica

Croatia

Czech Republic

Denmark

El Salvador

Falkland Islands

France

Finland

Georgia

Greenland

Guatemala

Honduras

India

Ireland

Italy

Japan

Kazakhstan

Kenya

Kyrgyzstan

Laos

Lebanon

Mongolia

Namibia

Nicaragua

Norway

Pakistan

Panama

Papua New Guinea

Patagonia

Portugal

Saudi Arabia

South Georgia

Sweden

Switzerland

Tajikistan

Tenerife

Thailand

Turkmenistan

Uzbekistan

Vietnam

Wrangel Island

Zimbabwe p79, 165

p33

p28

p34

p31, p186

p85

p164, 165

p75

p177

p32, p34

p42, 171

p136

p165

p83

p88

p33

p164, p165

p31

p36

p89, p91

p96

p91

p165

p164

p46, 167

p77

p36, p92

p70

p32

p65

p32, p81

p30

p83

p31

p66

p68, p164

p33, p91, p92

p75

p165

p167

p72

p81

p85

p31

p33, p89

p92

p32

p179

p30

p32

p32

p30

p116

p79

Tenerife, p179

Georgia, p96

Colombia, p136

Cape Town, p177

Wrangel Island, p116

This issue’s highlights

China, p42

India, p46

wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 11

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