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Contents TuRKEY FOR CoNNOISSEURS

ISTANBUL

THE ULTIMATE MusEuM GuıoE

THE Ü LD CıTY

The must-sees of the museums quarter: the Topkapı, Ayasofya, temples to classical and Islamic art, the Sultan's Lodge in the old port · 54

THE EuROPEAN CITY

Beyoğlu's bounty: Pera Museum, Arter and other head-turning new galleries · 104

Horn of revelations: a secret pleasure pavilion, Mr Koç's world of wonders, and a pristine power station · 120

A proud new world: from Dolmabahçe on the Lower Bosphorus to the gritty images of Ara Güler· 128

THE BOSPHORUS

The European side: the passions of private collectors - precious calligraphy, period costumes, classic cars · 142

The Asian side: the sultans' summer palaces · 152

FuRTHER AFIELD

Cultural O ases: Along the Sea of Marmara and on to the Princes Islands · 1 5 6

CONNOISSEUR

ETERNAL YouTH The luminous art of Avni Lifij, by Rose Shepherd · 5 THE Ü CCIDENTAL TouRIST Denna Jones on Inspired by the East at the British Museum · ıo

NEW ART SPACES

Woon WoRKS Eskişehir's marvel in wood, by Thomas Roueche · 16 ARTER-TEXTURE Andrew Finkel tells the story of Arter, Istanbul's newest art space,

and Thomas Roueche admires the conceptual art · 20

TROY STORIES

LosT AND FouND The breathtaking new Troy Museum, by Barnaby Rogerson

Photographs by Don McCullin and Monica Fritz · 26 Ü F LovE AND WAR The British Museum's Troy: Myth and Reality

Barnaby Rogerson on a love story that never dies · 3 2

BooKs

Philip Mansel on the last Ottoman princess; Benjamin Anderson on the Byzantine book of the century; Tim Stanley on an 18th-century tanbur, and Caroline Eden on Hamid Ismailov's Of Strangers and Bees · 2 7

COOKERY

THE MoDEST MEDLAR By Berrin Torolsan · 162

REGULARS

PRIVATE Vrnw The kindness of strangers, by Andrew Finkel · 12 SouND BITES Transports of delight, by John Shakespeare Dyson · 14

EATING OuT Andrew Finkel's search for the perfect kebab · 170

FROM OUR CORRESPONDENTS Caroline Eden in Tajikistan; Roger Narman on an Antolian bard · 174

CovER Early Bronze Age marble figurine, western Anatolia, mid-3rd millennium BC (height I2.2cm), Sadberk Hanım Museum - see page I46

Photograph: Hadiye Cangökçe / Sadberk Hanım Museum Archive

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