Contents TuRKEY FOR CoNNOISSEURS
ISTANBUL
THE ULTIMATE MusEuM GuıoE
THE Ü LD CıTY
The must-sees of the museums quarter: the Topkapı, Ayasofya, temples to classical and Islamic art, the Sultan's Lodge in the old port · 54
THE EuROPEAN CITY
Beyoğlu's bounty: Pera Museum, Arter and other head-turning new galleries · 104
Horn of revelations: a secret pleasure pavilion, Mr Koç's world of wonders, and a pristine power station · 120
A proud new world: from Dolmabahçe on the Lower Bosphorus to the gritty images of Ara Güler· 128
THE BOSPHORUS
The European side: the passions of private collectors - precious calligraphy, period costumes, classic cars · 142
The Asian side: the sultans' summer palaces · 152
FuRTHER AFIELD
Cultural O ases: Along the Sea of Marmara and on to the Princes Islands · 1 5 6
CONNOISSEUR
ETERNAL YouTH The luminous art of Avni Lifij, by Rose Shepherd · 5 THE Ü CCIDENTAL TouRIST Denna Jones on Inspired by the East at the British Museum · ıo
NEW ART SPACES
Woon WoRKS Eskişehir's marvel in wood, by Thomas Roueche · 16 ARTER-TEXTURE Andrew Finkel tells the story of Arter, Istanbul's newest art space,
and Thomas Roueche admires the conceptual art · 20
TROY STORIES
LosT AND FouND The breathtaking new Troy Museum, by Barnaby Rogerson
Photographs by Don McCullin and Monica Fritz · 26 Ü F LovE AND WAR The British Museum's Troy: Myth and Reality
Barnaby Rogerson on a love story that never dies · 3 2
BooKs
Philip Mansel on the last Ottoman princess; Benjamin Anderson on the Byzantine book of the century; Tim Stanley on an 18th-century tanbur, and Caroline Eden on Hamid Ismailov's Of Strangers and Bees · 2 7
COOKERY
THE MoDEST MEDLAR By Berrin Torolsan · 162
REGULARS
PRIVATE Vrnw The kindness of strangers, by Andrew Finkel · 12 SouND BITES Transports of delight, by John Shakespeare Dyson · 14
EATING OuT Andrew Finkel's search for the perfect kebab · 170
FROM OUR CORRESPONDENTS Caroline Eden in Tajikistan; Roger Narman on an Antolian bard · 174
CovER Early Bronze Age marble figurine, western Anatolia, mid-3rd millennium BC (height I2.2cm), Sadberk Hanım Museum - see page I46
Photograph: Hadiye Cangökçe / Sadberk Hanım Museum Archive
