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ContentsINDULGEtextilestobuy,collectorsimply admire 15 Flag Up Editor in Chief Polly Leonard unfurls a collection of the best patriotic products to celebrate the Britannia issue INDUSTRY from craft to commerce 40 Best of British 2011 A round up of this year’s best graduates showing at New Designers 2011, Business Design Centre, Islington, 29 June-2 July 46 COVER STORY Queen Street Mill The last steam driven weaving shed Weaving Technician MargaretNowakopensthedoortooneoftheworld’soldestweavingsheds 54 Norwich Stuffs Local textile knowledge Cathy Terry reveals the rich history of Norwich Textiles IllustratedwithdigitallyprintedpanelsbyNorfolktextileartistJeanetteDurrant ANECDOTE textiles that touch our lives 16 Flying the flag Sarah Jane Downing traces the chequered history of the Union Jack 34 COVER STORY Pavilion’d in splendour Editor in Chief Polly Leonard unpicks the textiles shown in the 1951 Festival of Britain IIlustratedbyLauraTarish 73 Guiding Hand Militaria Becky Oldfield, owner of Lost and Found Design, shares her tips on finding and restoring military buttons, badges, flags and medals 75 COVER STORY Fabric swatch No. 4: Shoddy We look back to the 1800s when shoddy fabrics became an unlikely solution to a wool shortage IllustratedbyBeccaStadtlander CONCEPT textiles in fine art 48 Dye society The formation of the early guilds and trade unions Academic Robert Chenciner writesabouttheimportanceofgroupsofdyersinhistoricalsociety ATTIRE critical reporting of fashion trends 18 COVER STORY By Royal Appointment Court dressmakers and fashionable tailors Curator and JointCourseDirectoratLondonCollegeofFashionAmydelaHayelooksbackattheimportance ofBritishcouturièresinhighsociety 22 COVER STORY Repeat performance Orla Kiely can see a pattern in her success Mary Schoeser, curator and writer offers an overview of Orla’s achievements PortraitbyGeorginaKuhu 26 COVER STORY British birds Fashion designer Luella Bartley explores the eccentricities of English style IllustratedbyZoeTaylorandDanielLaidler 42 COVER STORY Cap and gown The history of academic dress Academic Consultant to Ede and RavenscroftReverendPhilipGofflooksatthechangesinacademicdressthroughtheages COHABIT stunning interiors beautifully photographed 76 Pin money Merchant and Mills are a couple with old-fashioned values AninterviewwithCarolyn DenhamandRoderickFieldabouttheirjointbusinessventure 16 anecdote Flying the flag SARAH JANE DOWNING FOLLOWS THE HISTORY OF THE UNION JACK selv edge.org The Union Flag has a past as troubled as it is long. Trading on early glories and self conscious of past mistakes, it is a symbol of British identity even as the essence of that identity is contested. And where once it was illegal to use the Union Flag outside its official capacity, in the 21st century it has design icon status. When Queen Elizabeth I died childless in 1603, James VI of Scotland was invited to take the throne becoming James I of England. It was an uneasy cultural mix, but keen to unite his nation the king conceived of a flag to combine the red cross of St George with the white cross of St Andrew without awarding pre-eminence to either country. (As England and Wales had already become unified in 1536 it was felt that the Welsh presence was implicit in the cross of St George). A proclamation was made on 12th April 1606: “All our subjects in this our isle and kingdom of Great Britain and the members thereof, shall bear in their main top the red cross commonly called St George's Cross and the white cross commonly called St. Andrew's Cross joined together according to a form made by our heralds and sent to our Admiral to be published to our said subjects”. Even so, there were varying designs with the Scots favouring a version with the white saltire of St Andrew laid over the George cross which appears to have been in use at Edinburgh Castle as late as 1693. In 1634 King Charles I repealed his father’s proclamation and reserved the Union Flag for royal use only, but with his execution in 1649 this symbol of unity was suspended during the Cromwellian Long Parliament and only properly restored with Charles II in 1660. It was not until 1801 when Ireland was finally introduced to the union that the red diagonal cross of St Patrick was added to create the current version. With the new alliance the flag became an important symbol of strength and order in the face of the American War of Independence and the revolution in France. The Union Jack, as it has come to be known, is thought to take its name from a corruption of ‘Jacques’ as used by James I in his signature, and the flag was first used at sea to give a uniform look to British vessels. And what of the oft-quoted theory that the Union Flag should only be described as the Union Jack when flown on the bows of a warship? The Flag Institute explains this is a relatively recent idea, “from early in its life the Admiralty itself frequently referred to the flag as the Union Jack, whatever its use, and in 1902 an Admiralty Circular announced that Their Lordships had decided that either name could be used officially". The Union Jack was a common sight during the extended Regency period although it was most often seen at sea as the tattered ensign of a warship. Despite the dishonourable way in which thousands of sailors were kidnapped by press gangs and forced into serving, it became a symbol of heroism and pride. The last surviving flag from the battle of Trafalgar was rediscovered tucked away in a drawer in 2009 and sold at auction for £32,000. It had been awarded to Lieutenant James Clephan in honour of his bravery at Trafalgar. As the wars of the 19th century stacked up, parish churches were hung with faded battle standards that were often all that remained of local heroes. Colonialism dominated the Victorian era and as Britannia ruled the waves the Union Jack became synonymous with the Empire. Once the sun began to set on that vast entity, and as the rumblings in Europe broke into the First World War, the flag was issued with a new masculine identity. John Bull, the archetypal good-hearted British ‘everyman’ was redeployed, complete with union jack waistcoat, to front the wartime recruitment campaign, whilst young men in ibrary Art L ridgem an / The B , UK s, London Bonham / Photo © llection , Robert (1906-75) / Private Co reenham board), G il on (o ir, 1945 Fa ampstead ibrary Art L ridge man / The B llery, UK (1887-1976), Manchester Art Ga tephen ry, Laurence S canvas) by Low il on (o tone, 1936 Sing a Foundation Lay the trenches had handkerchiefs printed with Union Jacks complete with desperately poignant ‘inspirational’ slogans such as ‘faithful to the flag’. Patriotism reigned between the wars, and barely was the bunting put away from WWI before it was brought out again to wave off another generation. The Union Jack took on a precious personal significance to the countless people who had lost someone during the wars. It fluttered benignly, the last image of home as service people were sent off to the front and children were evacuated. It was there as a trophy of victory for the lucky ones who made it back, and it had to stand for the absence of those who never returned. The Union Jack sustained people in the next decade, decorating the streets for the coronation of a Queen who had shared a stint in uniform, and the strong symbolism was cherished even though it was slim recompense for the bomb sites, the rationing and the miserable privations post-war. In 1965 The Who released the album ‘My Generation’ with a cover bearing an image of bassist John Entwistle in a blazer said to have been made from a Union Jack flag. An inspired piece of pop art, it took the symbol of Britain away from the bomb sites and ration books of the older generation reclaiming it for the bright ‘Mods’ of the swinging 60s. But as the mini skirt, The Beatles and the Union Jack topped Mini Cooper in The Italian Job became the new symbols of a conquering British style, the National Front also co-opted the Union Jack for their fear-based lament for a lost Empire and mythical time of ethnic purity. The recession hit 1970s coincided with increased immigration and the shameful rant of ‘there ain’t no black in the Union Jack’ infected the flag with a sense of shame that lingers to this day. The Mod deconstructed Union Jack had been shocking to the older generation in 1965, but there was more to come. In 1976 Malcolm McLaren contacted Jamie Reid, a former classmate from Croydon Art School, and commissioned him to create artwork for the Sex Pistols. His flag, with its ransom-note-style lettering, encapsulated the punk movement while his image of Queen Elizabeth II ‘punked up’ with safety pin through her lip was considered treasonous. And by subverting the image of national pride allowed the disenfranchised to play their own small part in the jubilee celebrations. With the disillusionment and recession of the 1980s attitudes to the flag became polarised. In Shane Meadows’ 2006 film ThisisEngland, the flag is pivotal – symbolising a young boy’s loss and isolation after his father is killed in the Falklands’, his acceptance into a skinhead gang and his disillusionment as he discovers that their patriotism is nothing more than racism. The quaint ‘everything stops for tea’ image of Britain seemed irrevocably replaced by one of unpleasant flagsporting hooligans in their Union Jack shorts. But change is the only constant in fashion and the 1990s saw a cultural revamp. Launched on a second wave of Brit-pop and ‘Cool Britannia’ the Union Jack was sighted in new locations from a flag-draped Liam and Patsy on a Vanity Fair cover, to the kitsch Austin Powers films and that brash Geri Halliwell dress. From that point on, whatever was lost in gravity, some might say respect, was gained in terms of general acceptance. The Union Jack is everywhere. For some its display remains a tangible response to the continued tragedies of the wars in Iraq, Afghanistan and now Libya. For others it evokes retro glamour in the form of rugs and cushions, handbags and jewellery. As Britain prepares for the royal wedding and the London Olympics in 2012 expect the Union Jack to be reworked again for a new century. ORLA KIELY CAN SEE A PATTERN IN HER SUCCESS Repeat performance tre.org lascen icho .stn tre, www las Cen icho t N S Kuh n i a G e o rg It’s been a decade since Orla Kiely launched her trademark design ‘Stem’. It has remained in her range ever since, morphing from its original brown-stemmed simplicity to multicoloured versions, from dark grounds to stark white outlines. ‘Stem’ was something of an accidental star, almost left out of Kiely’s collection. But Japanese buyers loved it from the outset and that little stem provided the roots of a global brand. It’s safe to say that ‘Stem’ captured the mood of the moment but it has also demonstrated remarkable longevity. Found on fabrics, fashion, luggage, stationery, ceramics, wallpapers and home-wares it is, as the designer herself describes it, cute but not too pretty: clean, simple and strong. Her latest venture is the lavishly illustrated book Pattern, which tells of her emergence by way of Dublin’s National College of Art and Design, working as a print designer in New York, designing for Esprit in Europe and studying knitwear at the RCA. Appropriately for a visiting professor at the latter, its open discussion of her inspirations, use of colour, aspects of print and their combinations in different applications is clearly directed at aspiring Orlas, and effectively communicates her love of mid-century design. She is keenly aware of the importance of a shared visual vocabulary and how much of this stylistic language is built on both nostalgia for and knowledge of the past. She points to the tiny sprigged prints from Laura Ashley that evoke the Victorian age but equally define the 1970s. And now Kiely herself has created a look that defines our era. Judging from historical precedents, the Kiely style will reign for a while. Coming to represent not solely of the noughties but also the “uh-ohs”: a period of economic and political 2 3 uncertainty that compares to the decades after the 1929 crash. That said, the best of her graphics are indebted, not to the spatially complex designs of the 1930s, but to the flat, resolutely rhythmic patterns of the up-beat later 50s and 60s. Think Quant flower, Hull Traders and the Pop/Op Art patterns from Heals (where, appropriately, Kiely’s homewares are found today, as are her scented candles and fragrances). Designed on the computer (although her training in laying down flat gouache shines through) it’s telling that her style replaces one that was above all painterly. Zandra Rhodes, Collier Campbell and Georgina von Etzdorf were all flying high in the ‘self-centred’ 1980s when the gestural mark celebrated an indulgent and individualist lifestyle. In contrast, Kiely’s patterns are uncomplicated, even reserved. Yet as far as the Kiely book goes an apt comparison might be The Art of Zandra Rhodes, the 1984 publication that became something of a bible for print and wearable art courses across the United States. Her nostalgia, then, is ours: for those optimistic days of economic recovery, youthful discovery and innocent certainty. Her visual vocabulary translates into ‘trustworthy, understandable and secure’. The desire for such aesthetic reassurance is widespread. Kiely has not only designed for Habitat and the Tate, but also for Target, the trendiest of the American budget superstores. Her clothing and accessories, shown off in her flagship store in Covent Garden, have won her four UK Fashion Export Awards. And there are numerous variations of her patterns created by others, equally in tune with the tenor of the times, in love with the retro style and, possibly, influenced by Kiely’s success. Mary Schoeser a t t i r e s e l v e d g e . o r g 34 ire insight insp inform selv edge.org Pavilion’d in Splendour TEXTILES IN THE FESTIVAL OF BRITIAN 3 5 ienne Day lix, Luc Ca It took great courage and imagination to organise a national celebration at a time of political and economic uncertainty. Yet many of the textiles shown in the Festival of Britain have a beauty, strength of line and simplicity that have stood the test of time. In the aftermath of the World War II, the British government decided to mark the centenary of the Great Exhibition and demonstrate its postwar recovery to the world. The festival differed from the 1851 exhibition in several ways. It was a nationwide celebration, with a site on derelict land on the south bank of the river Thames as the centrepiece. It was, according to the festival guide, “one united act of national reassessment, and one corporate reaffirmation of faith in the nation’s future.” All aspects of life in Britain were represented in their most up-to-date forms but in the textiles of the festival we find one of its most enduring design legacies. The festival's success in bringing art and science together is clearly illustrated in the crystal design project. This was a range of designs based on scientific diagrams of materials including quartz, mica and nylon. The idea was initiated by Mark Hartland Thomas of the recently formed Council of Industrial Design after consultation with Dr Helen Megaw of Girton College, Cambridge. He wrote “...these crystal structure diagrams had the discipline of exact repetitive symmetry; they were above all very pretty… modern because the technique that constructed them was quite recent, and yet, like all successful decorations of the past, they derive from nature.” Festival designs were produced by 26 invited wallpaper, fabric and ceramic manufacturers. The crystal structures were intended to be a source of inspiration, but in fact interest in the atom and molecule became the foundation for a new school of design. If one were to pick a single fabric that caught the spirit of the age it must be Lucienne Day's 'Calyx'. This design, printed on linen by Heal’s, electrified the British textile industry and sent shock waves abroad. It exerted a dynamic and long-lasting effect on industrial design and had a great impact on public taste. The Homes and Gardens pavilion provided opportunities for many young designers, including Lucienne and Robin Day. ‘Calyx’ was designed at Robin's request: he wanted something modern and in keeping with his furniture. The design’s spindly lines and curved shapes complemented the light and graceful arcs of Robin's furniture. Lucienne approached Heal’s, and although Tom a n e c d o t e s e l v e d g e . o r g THE HISTORY OF ACADEMIC DRESS Cap and gown by Laura Ta rrish Illustration llege of Art l Co sek, Roya im Ayse S llege of Art l Co , Roya Emma Lundgren t Martins in l Sa tra lker, Cen ia Wa in irg V llege of Art l Co ley, Roya rad Bid Dav t Martins l S tra ing, Cen Line Ng Ya n la E ity ivers ire Un taffordsh Ta nser, S Sarah ibrary Lritish B It takes pride of place on the parental wall: the graduation photograph. All requisite elements are present; blank paper scroll, stiff pose, awkward smile, mottled sky-effect backdrop or if you’re really lucky a simulated bookcase to reinforce your new intellectual status. But these are merely trimmings; the real signifier of your successful journey though academia is the robe and it has been the uniform of the scholar for centuries. At the ceremony new graduands wear the costume of the university appropriate to the degree they are receiving, and the university teachers (increasingly known by the American term, ‘Faculty’) usually wear the academic dress of the highest degree they possess. This makes for a riot of colour but unless the symbolism is explained or illustrated in the ceremony brochure the meaning of the dress can be obscure. ‘Cap and gown’ is a general term used to indicate the academic dress of places of learning, usually a university or degree-awarding college. Usually such costume is made up of three garments: the gown, the hood and the cap each of which have their separate stories as well as shared history. Once everyday wear for students and staff at universities, these days academic dress is mostly ceremonial, except for a diminishing number of schools where the gown is worn for teaching, and in the Church of England where the academic hood is still part of a clergyman’s official or ‘choir’ dress. The familiar costume comprising gown, hood and cap has its origins in medieval times in the clothes worn by everyone. Most people would have worn some kind of tunic. Over this might be worn a warm heavy cloak. The tunic or cloak might have a hood attached or a separate hood with a cape might be worn. A good place to get the sense of this medieval dress is down on the London Underground where the Northern line platforms of Charing Cross station are illustrated with a 100 metre long mural made in 1979, from woodcarved designs, by the artist David Gentleman. Commemorating the building of the first Charing Cross, a memorial dedicated to Queen Eleanor, the murals depict all kind of workers in various styles of tunics and hoods and give a wonderful insight into dress in the 13th century – a time when the European universities were being established. They also capture the textures of the costumes illustrating well the rough woollen fabrics of the various tradespeople. The first universities began as schools centred around great cathedrals or monasteries. Bright students would often travel great distances to sit at the feet of some revered teacher. Eventually some of the schools became recognised by a monarch or the Pope, and the universities grew out of these. The students would have been in minor holy orders and were expected to dress in a sober and dignified way and wear their clothes long. The original item of academic dress was also clerical dress. It was a long closed cloak, worn almost to the ground, with one or sometimes two openings in the front for the hands. In 1222 the Archbishop of Canterbury ordered this dress to be worn by all clerics in England to bring them into line with the rest of Catholic Europe; and because the clergy had been sporting modern fashions and wearing their tunics shorter than Church authorities thought seemly. Beginning in the next century, the Renaissance was expressed in the opening of minds to new thought and ideas. Interestingly, it also led to the opening up of closed dress, and people, inside and outside of the Church, began to leave off their heavy outer cloaks and to wear their tunics open. Advances in the availability and use of glazing in buildings may have played a part in this process. Over time the tunic became less of an undergarment and evolved into an outer garment. As fashions came and went the sleeves would change, sometimes being worn wide and open and sometimes narrow and closed. Some of these fashions are still reflected today in the styles of gowns worn to indicate various degrees at universities. By the 15th century academic dress at the universities consisted of the familiar gown, hood and cap. The hood was attached to a shoulder cape and had a long tail, or liripipe, hanging down at the back. By around 1490 the hood had been abandoned as a head covering for everyday wear. New fashions were being tried out and one popular style was to wear the face hole of the hood on the head and then to roll up the hood as a kind of turban. As caps were adopted the hood was worn less and less on the head and eventually the whole garment was worn further down the back and without much of the shoulder cape. Another fashion was to carry the hood over the shoulder as a young man might carry a jacket today. It is fascinating to see the hood making a comeback in urban street dress after a 500 year absence. Today’s ‘hoodie’ is probably unaware that he or she is dressing rather like a medieval cleric! In the universities however (and this means Oxford, Cambridge, and Bologna, Paris and a few 4 3 a t t i r e s e l v e d g e . o r g ign Des l of Art and iff Schoo ffy, Card Charlotte Du llege of the Arts ity Co ivers Un ich Ywmer, Norw in Ya sm Sixty years on and the Southbank in London is putting on a summer-long homage to the 1951 Festival of Britain. But who are the new designers that might feature in a 21st century celebration of textiles? For dates and information about this year’s New Designer’s exhibition see pg 39, www.newdesigners.com Ayse Simsek has developed a collection of hand woven textiles, with complementary upholstery and interior fabrics. Ayse has experimented with weaving techniques allowing contrasts to work together in either subtle or more surprising ways, using graduating colours and textures; varying weight and opacity. 4 1 in d u s t r y Emma Lundgren draws inspiration from her Scandinavian heritage, combining it with a sporty fresh aesthetic – a kind of mix and match attitude. Emma adds strong colour to traditional techniques such as embroidery, print, laser cutting, knit and moulding to create ornamentation for the young at heart. Virginia Walker took a product generally associated with men – the Meccano model construction system – and used that inspiration to produce a Womenswear collection, ‘Collect and Collage’, that features magnetic pleating and fasting details as well as metal embellishments on printed Merino wool. David Bradley has an obsession with colour and pattern, in particular the illusion of movement in surface pattern. Using dye sublimation and screen-printing processes, colour is applied to correspond to a fabric’s threedimensional shape. Pleating and smocking techniques are then used to further distort the optical patterns. Elaine Ng Yan Ling wants to restore natural elements into our urban environment without sacrificing the gains technology has made. To do this she has coined a new phrase ‘Techno-Naturology’ and developed a furnishing collection that explores shape-memory materials and the use of technology to activate natural reactions. Sarah Tanser has explored the traditional Japanese technique of shibori, creating pattern by stitching, folding, twisting and binding cloth before dyeing. She then manipulates her fabrics using a computer to generate regular repeats, occasionally including hand drawn imagery before digitally printing her fabric. ity ivers litan Un Metropo ika, London lucn Karina K Charlotte Duffy takes a relatively traditional approach to stitch, collage, print and mark making. A recent international award and work placement with Zari Kuwait took her to the Middle East – an experience which will no doubt influence her visual language and inspire future work. Yasmin Ywmer has used the imagery and textures of military uniforms to inspire her textile designs. She has combined traditional yarns with new technologies such as laser marking and cutting. The result is a range of fabrics that reference the best of tradition but can only be produced using relatively new techniques. Karina Klucnika has reinterpreted traditional British tweeds as knits in her final collection called ‘Urban Owl’. To recreate the owl’s textural feather patterns Karina combined softened mohair and chenille yarns in earthy tones of grey, brown and black enhanced with mustard and yellow accents. s e l v e d g e . o r g
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46 industry Queen Street Mill THE LAST STEAM-DRIVEN WEAVING SHED selv edge .org Tucked away in the village of Harle Syke, high above the old cotton town of Burnley, lies Queen Street Mill Textile Museum, thought to be the last steam-driven weaving shed in the world. In the 1890s when workers' cooperatives were popular, the Queen Street Mill Manufacturing Company was set up by selling £5 shares to local folk. In 1894 they had £20,000, enough to build the boiler house, engine house and a 1000-loom weaving shed. The 20th century brought swift developments in man-made fibres and technology, but Queen Street Mill steadfastly continued to produce the local speciality ‘grey cloth’, a plain, unbleached and undyed calico, until March 1982 when it finally closed. Lack of money or vision to invest in modernising the mill became its saving grace. Local people petitioned the council, which backed the conversion of the mill into a working museum. So while many Lancashire looms were scrapped or exported to developing textile industries, the last 307 of the Queen Street looms continue to demonstrate the full sensory experience of working in a cotton mill – noise, smells and all. Cloth production is now limited to demonstrations. This cotton calico is used for the ‘Simply Textiles’ range of aprons and tea towels sold exclusively in Queen Street Mill Textile Museum and its sister museum Helmshore Mills Textile Museum that spins the weft for the shuttles on its original spinning mules. The weaving shed was chosen by director Tom Hooper for the mill scene in the BAFTA and Oscar winning film ‘The Kings Speech’. During filming Colin Firth described the mill in the visitors’ book as “a thing of beauty” – and it is. Margaret Nowak 58 ire insight insp inform 5 9 in f o r mi n s pirei n s i g h t selv edge.org 60 ire insight insp inform selvedge.org s e l v e d g e . o r g The North Norfolk coast is loved for its big skies, its white sand, windswept beaches and being a bird watcher’s paradise, but unspoilt countryside is not all it has to offer. East Anglia was once the richest county in England and is peppered with historic buildings including churches and stately homes. In the 18th century Norwich was the second wealthiest city in England after London due to its wool trade and textile industry that thrived since medieval times until the 19th century. The city’s 31 medieval churches and its 11th century cathedral stand testament to its wealthy past. The Norwich textile industry was best known for developing a type of worsted cloth and for its expertise in dyeing and weaving. When the industry began to wane in the 19th century, local weavers turned to making shawls inspired by the fashionable but expensive imports from Kashmir, India. The English word 'shawl' comes from the Persian 'shal', meaning a 'type of woven fabric'. Norwich Shawls were made in two different styles: as wide scarves with plain centres and decorated borders, or big squares with plain centres, woven borders and fringes on all sides. Formal rows of pine-shaped motifs, a design originally from Persia, were typical and on the early shawls these patterns were often embroidered on rather than woven into the cloth. The Norwich shawls, also known as Fillover shawls, were woven on a draw loom, which allowed more elaborate patterns to be woven than the ordinary hand looms. Norwich and its surrounding area has a treasure trove of museums with fine examples of Norwich’s textile history as well as modern day art and craft galleries, antique shops, vintage clothes shops and stately homes to explore. Houghton Hall This grand Palladian style house built between 1722-1735 was home to Sir Robert Walpole, Britain’s first Prime Minister. Its sumptuous interior dates back to the original William Kent designs. Textiles take centre stage and many of the rooms are named after the gems that line the walls or cover the beds. The Green Velvet Bedchamber is dominated by a four poster bed draped with the eponymous cloth, a colour associated with sleep and Venus. Four Brussels tapestries, telling the story of Venus and Adonis, were made to order and fit the room exactly. The Embroidered Bedchamber has a bed covered in mid 18th century oriental needlework and Bruges tapestries line the walls. The Tapestry Dressing Room has an unusual Mortlake Tapestry that depicts James I, Charles, I, Christian IV of Denmark and the Stuart children. Lining the walls of the glamorous White Drawing Room is fine brocaded silk woven by the Huguenots in Spitalfields, London given as a present by the Prince Regent – he also had some made for Buckingham Palace. Kingfisher blue and white hand-blocked and hand-painted Chinese wallpaper stretches over tea chests in the Cabinet Room and envelops the bed draped with intricate Chinese silk embroidered hangings. Equally striking is the stunning crimson wool and silk caffoy wall and furniture coverings in the Saloon. Take plenty of time here – the garden is wonderful too. Near King’s Lynn, Norfolk PE31 6UE T: +44(0) 1485 528 569 www.houghtonhall.com PLACES TO EAT AND STAY Byfords 1-3 Shirehall Plain Holt, Norfolk NR25 6BG T: +44(0) 1263 711 400 www.byfords.org.uk The Victoria Hotel, Park Road, Wells-next-the-Sea, Norfolk NR23 1RG T: +44(0) 1328 711 008 www.holkham.co.uk/victoria The Crown Hotel, The Buttlands, Wells-next-the-Sea, Norfolk NR23 1EX T: +44(0) 1328 710 209 www.thecrownhotelwells.co.uk The Hoste Arms The Green, Burnham, Norfolk PE31 8HD T: +44(0) 1328 738 777 www.hostearms.co.uk Morston Hall, Morston, Norfolk NR25 7AA T: +44(0) 1263 741 041, www.morstonhall.com Voewood, Cromer Road, High Kelling, Norfolk NR25 6QS T: +44(0) 1263 713 029 Tours are available of this Arts and Crafts House. Interior fabrics are by Annabel Grey who sells at Verandah Wiveton Farm Shop and Cafe, Holt, Norfolk NR25 7TE T: +44(0) 1263 740 525 www.wivetonhall.co.uk The Walpole Arms (food only) The Common, Itteringham, Norwich, Norfolk NR11 7AR T: +44(0) 1263 587 258 www.thewalpolearms.co.uk 6 1 g l o b a l s e l v e d g e . o r g Beastly habits MARK HEARLD’S ARTISTIC ANIMAL SANCTUARY Appearances, as the cliché has it, can be deceptive. Entering artist/designer Mark Hearld’s warren-like flat, tucked away in a converted Victorian terrace off historic Gillygate, hard by the Medieval walls in York, one has the immediate impression of a man Doctor-Dolittle-dotty about animalia art. Crowded on shelves, plate racks, tables and walls (in fact, on every horizontal or vertical surface bar the ceiling), and in a variety of media, from slipwear to papier mâché, are flocks of seagulls and chickens, a clowder of cats, a sloth of bears, a husk of hares, a sword of mallard. There’s even a herd of deer antlers jutting from the wall. But sadly, given this is Yorkshire, no business of ferrets. To better understand Hearld’s collections, not to mention his own quixotic collages, prints, textiles and ceramics, you have to go into the bedroom. Here he reverentially displays a series of panels, the names upon them serving as a directory of 20th century British artists: John Piper, Edward Bawden, Eric Ravilious, Christopher Wood, John Minton… and so the names roll elegantly on. “I commissioned the panels from a sign-writer in Hull – a middle-old boy who was the apprentice to an old-old boy,” recounts Hearld. “I saw his lettering and wanted to use him and it came to me to make a list of the people I admire. I limited my list to the British artists, a lot of whom are Neo-romantic landscape painters. Although I am more interested in creatures, these artists looked at nature with a poetic eye, which is why their work appeals to me.” Having grown up in bucolic bliss on the outskirts of York (the old roses, foxgloves and cow parsley, spilling out of numerous jugs are courtesy of his parents’ garden) Hearld studied illustration at the Glasgow School of Art. From there, he headed south to undertake a master’s in natural-history illustration at the Royal College of Art. “My tutor on this quirky little course was John Norris Wood, who’d been taught by Minton, Bawden and Cedric Morris. He has fantastic anecdotes about Bawden’s fascination with nature.” Hearld believes his own obsession comes out of a “feeling rooted in the English tradition”. Having completed his MA and returned to York, Hearld was given an Pin money MERCHANT & MILLS ARE A COUPLE WITH OLD-FASHIONED VALUES Carolyn Denham and her partner, Roderick Fields are the driving force behind Merchant & Mills – a company determined to get us all sewing our own clothes. Carolyn creates the patterns, sources the notions, chooses the cloth and makes sure everyone behaves while Roderick is responsible for the photography, writing and that lovely black and white packaging... What do think makes a handcrafted object special? If you have made it yourself it has something of you in it. It is from your hand, your imagination and because of this, it already comes with a story. Tell us about your background. I studied fashion at Newcastle and lived in New York and Italy for many years. Did you teach yourself how to sew or have you studied textiles? My mother taught me to sew when I was a child. She is a great seamstress and thought everyone should know how to sew, darn and make do. She would send off for Harris tweed and Cavalry twills to make jackets and trousers for my father. Soon I was making my own clothes and had a small production line in alternative school uniforms. When he was fourteen Roderick bought a treadle sewing machine for a pound from a jumble sale. He later progressed to an electric Singer which we are still using. He made simple square tops to sell to friends and some absurdly high-waisted trousers... Where do you find your inspiration? We both watch people. My influences are flavours; utilitarian living or industrial architecture. In times of need I turn to books that I have collected over the years. Current favourites are The Wardrobe of Gabriele D’Annunzio, a Japanese military catalogue from the sixties and Appearances, a V&A collection of fashion photography. What do you listen to as you work? Mostly to Roderick babbling on with some Radio 4 in the background, there is always lively discussion in the studio, from organic veg to the Middle East. Do you have any particular designers that you admire? There are many designers I think are geniuses but I try not to look too much at what other people are doing. I love Cristobal Balenciaga for his silhouettes. But I want to create clothes more than fashion. I admire designers who concentrate on this with a distinct signature, such as Margaret Howell or Alberto Biani. Is there a particular era you identify with? Probably the 50s and 60s mostly because it was the area of most influence when I started to study fashion. I love a sculpted silhouette! We enjoy cinematography from the forties, all those harsh shadows and snappy dialogue. Left to my own devices though, I am more likely to design a land girl outfit. Do you feel there is a growing interest in rediscovering textile skills? Dressmaking has always been popular but never cool. At last I sense a sewing renaissance which I’m proud to be part of. I think people love to create and cloth is friendly. It doesn’t make too much mess or demand huge financial investment. The ratio of effort to satisfaction favours the maker! I see a real interest in people taking control of what they buy and wear. Roderick and I are committed to 7 7 c o h a bit s e l v e d g e . o r g 66 Animal habits Mark Hearld’s artistic animal sanctuary We visit the Yorkshire home of illustrator Mark Hearld TextbyAliWatkinson,photographsbyJamesMortimer GLOBAL 60 COVER STORY Norfolk East Anglia has a rich textile history Clare Lewis reveals this county’s manyhighlights.IllustratedbyJennyBarrs EVENTS 83 Selvedge, in association with the National Trust, brings you this special event, ‘We Love Linen’ at Fenton House, Hampstead, 28th June, 6.30-8.30pm, with Amanda Vickery author and broadcaster. The event will include light refreshments and a glass of wine. Tickets are limited so please book early T: +44 (0)20 8341 9721, www.selvedge.org, see pg 83 for more WIN The chance to win a two-night stay at the Manor Coach House in Cley, Norfolk (pg 83), one of three Orla Kiely tote bags or one of three Mark Hearld screen-printed cushions (pg 80) DON’T FORGET... All new subscribers now receive free access to the digital edition of Selvedge. Visit the Selvedge website for more information, www.selvedge.org INFORM the latest news, reviews and exhibition listings 03 bias /contributors A letter from the editor-in-chief and anecdotes from our contributors 07 correspond Letters and comments from the Selvedge community 09 news Essential textile news: Tracey Emin at Collect, Savile Rogue, Toast, Liberty, William Morris, Merci-Merci, Festival of Britain, Lucienne & Robin Day, Cole & Son, Sanderson, Need to know: William Morris’ Strawberry Thief 80 Subscribe to Selvedge A set of Mibo paper animals for every new subscriber and renewal, plus win Orla Kiely bags and Mark Hearld cushions 84 listings Exhibitions, fairs, and events. 88 view Yohji Yamamoto at the V&A, Judy Chicago Tapestries: Woven by Audrey Cowan, 19th Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design, Color Moves: Art and Fashion by Sonia Delaunay 83 noticeboard Selvedge’s noticeboard, join us for events and keep up to date with the latest news 93 resources Websites and reading lists for those who want to know more about the Britannia Issue 95 coming next The Coastal Issue: Wonderful, windswept textiles... silk scarves and how to wear them, Victorian bathing suits, the highs and lows of hang-gliding plus fashion on the coasts of France, England and America 96 Greensleeves Fashionable theories on a traditional English ballad SELVEDGE ('selnid3 ) n. 1. finished di fferently 2. the non-fraying edge of a length of woven fabric. [: from SELF + EDGE]

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industry

Queen Street Mill

THE LAST STEAM-DRIVEN WEAVING SHED

selv edge .org

Tucked away in the village of Harle Syke, high above the old cotton town of Burnley, lies Queen Street Mill Textile Museum, thought to be the last steam-driven weaving shed in the world.

In the 1890s when workers' cooperatives were popular, the Queen Street Mill Manufacturing Company was set up by selling £5 shares to local folk. In 1894 they had £20,000, enough to build the boiler house, engine house and a 1000-loom weaving shed.

The 20th century brought swift developments in man-made fibres and technology, but Queen Street Mill steadfastly continued to produce the local speciality ‘grey cloth’, a plain, unbleached and undyed calico, until March 1982 when it finally closed.

Lack of money or vision to invest in modernising the mill became its saving grace. Local people petitioned the council, which backed the conversion of the mill into a working museum. So while many Lancashire looms were scrapped or exported to developing textile industries, the last 307 of the Queen Street looms continue to demonstrate the full sensory experience of working in a cotton mill – noise, smells and all.

Cloth production is now limited to demonstrations. This cotton calico is used for the ‘Simply Textiles’ range of aprons and tea towels sold exclusively in Queen Street Mill Textile Museum and its sister museum Helmshore Mills Textile Museum that spins the weft for the shuttles on its original spinning mules.

The weaving shed was chosen by director Tom Hooper for the mill scene in the BAFTA and Oscar winning film ‘The Kings Speech’. During filming Colin Firth described the mill in the visitors’ book as “a thing of beauty” – and it is. Margaret Nowak

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The North Norfolk coast is loved for its big skies, its white sand, windswept beaches and being a bird watcher’s paradise, but unspoilt countryside is not all it has to offer. East Anglia was once the richest county in England and is peppered with historic buildings including churches and stately homes.

In the 18th century Norwich was the second wealthiest city in England after London due to its wool trade and textile industry that thrived since medieval times until the 19th century. The city’s 31 medieval churches and its 11th century cathedral stand testament to its wealthy past.

The Norwich textile industry was best known for developing a type of worsted cloth and for its expertise in dyeing and weaving. When the industry began to wane in the 19th century, local weavers turned to making shawls inspired by the fashionable but expensive imports from Kashmir, India. The English word 'shawl' comes from the Persian 'shal', meaning a 'type of woven fabric'. Norwich Shawls were made in two different styles: as wide scarves with plain centres and decorated borders, or big squares with plain centres, woven borders and fringes on all sides. Formal rows of pine-shaped motifs, a design originally from Persia, were typical and on the early shawls these patterns were often embroidered on rather than woven into the cloth. The Norwich shawls, also known as Fillover shawls, were woven on a draw loom, which allowed more elaborate patterns to be woven than the ordinary hand looms.

Norwich and its surrounding area has a treasure trove of museums with fine examples of Norwich’s textile history as well as modern day art and craft galleries, antique shops, vintage clothes shops and stately homes to explore.

Houghton Hall This grand Palladian style house built between 1722-1735 was home to Sir Robert Walpole, Britain’s first Prime Minister. Its sumptuous interior dates back to the original William Kent designs.

Textiles take centre stage and many of the rooms are named after the gems that line the walls or cover the beds. The Green Velvet Bedchamber is dominated by a four poster bed draped with the eponymous cloth, a colour associated with sleep and Venus. Four Brussels tapestries, telling the story of Venus and Adonis, were made to order and fit the room exactly.

The Embroidered Bedchamber has a bed covered in mid 18th century oriental needlework and Bruges tapestries line the walls. The Tapestry Dressing Room has an unusual Mortlake Tapestry that depicts James I, Charles, I, Christian IV of Denmark and the Stuart children.

Lining the walls of the glamorous White Drawing Room is fine brocaded silk woven by the Huguenots in Spitalfields, London given as a present by the Prince Regent – he also had some made for Buckingham Palace. Kingfisher blue and white hand-blocked and hand-painted Chinese wallpaper stretches over tea chests in the Cabinet Room and envelops the bed draped with intricate Chinese silk embroidered hangings. Equally striking is the stunning crimson wool and silk caffoy wall and furniture coverings in the Saloon. Take plenty of time here – the garden is wonderful too. Near King’s Lynn, Norfolk PE31 6UE T: +44(0) 1485 528 569 www.houghtonhall.com

PLACES TO EAT AND STAY Byfords 1-3 Shirehall Plain Holt, Norfolk NR25 6BG T: +44(0) 1263 711 400 www.byfords.org.uk The Victoria Hotel, Park Road, Wells-next-the-Sea, Norfolk NR23 1RG T: +44(0) 1328 711 008 www.holkham.co.uk/victoria The Crown Hotel, The Buttlands, Wells-next-the-Sea, Norfolk NR23 1EX T: +44(0) 1328 710 209 www.thecrownhotelwells.co.uk The Hoste Arms The Green, Burnham, Norfolk PE31 8HD T: +44(0) 1328 738 777 www.hostearms.co.uk Morston Hall, Morston, Norfolk

NR25 7AA T: +44(0) 1263 741 041, www.morstonhall.com Voewood, Cromer Road, High Kelling, Norfolk NR25 6QS T: +44(0) 1263 713 029 Tours are available of this Arts and Crafts House. Interior fabrics are by Annabel Grey who sells at Verandah Wiveton Farm Shop and Cafe, Holt, Norfolk NR25 7TE T: +44(0) 1263 740 525 www.wivetonhall.co.uk The Walpole Arms (food only) The Common, Itteringham, Norwich, Norfolk NR11 7AR T: +44(0) 1263 587 258 www.thewalpolearms.co.uk

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g l o b a l s e l v e d g e . o r g

Beastly habits MARK HEARLD’S ARTISTIC ANIMAL SANCTUARY

Appearances, as the cliché has it, can be deceptive. Entering artist/designer Mark Hearld’s warren-like flat, tucked away in a converted Victorian terrace off historic Gillygate, hard by the Medieval walls in York, one has the immediate impression of a man Doctor-Dolittle-dotty about animalia art.

Crowded on shelves, plate racks, tables and walls (in fact, on every horizontal or vertical surface bar the ceiling), and in a variety of media, from slipwear to papier mâché, are flocks of seagulls and chickens, a clowder of cats, a sloth of bears, a husk of hares, a sword of mallard. There’s even a herd of deer antlers jutting from the wall. But sadly, given this is Yorkshire, no business of ferrets.

To better understand Hearld’s collections, not to mention his own quixotic collages, prints, textiles and ceramics, you have to go into the bedroom. Here he reverentially displays a series of panels, the names upon them serving as a directory of 20th century British artists: John Piper, Edward Bawden, Eric Ravilious, Christopher Wood, John Minton… and so the names roll elegantly on.

“I commissioned the panels from a sign-writer in Hull – a middle-old boy who was the apprentice to an old-old boy,” recounts Hearld. “I saw his lettering and wanted to use him and it came to me to make a list of the people I admire. I limited my list to the British artists, a lot of whom are Neo-romantic landscape painters. Although I am more interested in creatures, these artists looked at nature with a poetic eye, which is why their work appeals to me.”

Having grown up in bucolic bliss on the outskirts of York (the old roses, foxgloves and cow parsley, spilling out of numerous jugs are courtesy of his parents’ garden) Hearld studied illustration at the Glasgow School of Art. From there, he headed south to undertake a master’s in natural-history illustration at the Royal College of Art. “My tutor on this quirky little course was John Norris Wood, who’d been taught by Minton, Bawden and Cedric Morris. He has fantastic anecdotes about Bawden’s fascination with nature.” Hearld believes his own obsession comes out of a “feeling rooted in the English tradition”.

Having completed his MA and returned to York, Hearld was given an

Pin money MERCHANT & MILLS ARE A COUPLE WITH OLD-FASHIONED VALUES

Carolyn Denham and her partner, Roderick Fields are the driving force behind Merchant & Mills – a company determined to get us all sewing our own clothes. Carolyn creates the patterns, sources the notions, chooses the cloth and makes sure everyone behaves while Roderick is responsible for the photography, writing and that lovely black and white packaging...

What do think makes a handcrafted object special? If you have made it yourself it has something of you in it. It is from your hand, your imagination and because of this, it already comes with a story. Tell us about your background. I studied fashion at Newcastle and lived in New York and Italy for many years. Did you teach yourself how to sew or have you studied textiles? My mother taught me to sew when I was a child. She is a great seamstress and thought everyone should know how to sew, darn and make do. She would send off for Harris tweed and Cavalry twills to make jackets and trousers for my father. Soon I was making my own clothes and had a small production line in alternative school uniforms. When he was fourteen Roderick bought a treadle sewing machine for a pound from a jumble sale. He later progressed to an electric Singer which we are still using. He made simple square tops to sell to friends and some absurdly high-waisted trousers... Where do you find your inspiration? We both watch people. My influences are flavours; utilitarian living or industrial architecture. In times of need I turn to books that I have collected over the years. Current favourites are The Wardrobe of Gabriele D’Annunzio, a Japanese military catalogue from the sixties and Appearances, a V&A collection of fashion photography. What do you listen to as you work? Mostly to Roderick babbling on with some Radio 4 in the background, there is always lively discussion in the studio, from organic veg to the Middle East. Do you have any particular designers that you admire? There are many designers I think are geniuses but I try not to look too much at what other people are doing. I love Cristobal Balenciaga for his silhouettes. But I want to create clothes more than fashion. I admire designers who concentrate on this with a distinct signature, such as Margaret Howell or Alberto Biani. Is there a particular era you identify with? Probably the 50s and 60s mostly because it was the area of most influence when I started to study fashion. I love a sculpted silhouette! We enjoy cinematography from the forties, all those harsh shadows and snappy dialogue. Left to my own devices though, I am more likely to design a land girl outfit. Do you feel there is a growing interest in rediscovering textile skills? Dressmaking has always been popular but never cool. At last I sense a sewing renaissance which I’m proud to be part of. I think people love to create and cloth is friendly. It doesn’t make too much mess or demand huge financial investment. The ratio of effort to satisfaction favours the maker! I see a real interest in people taking control of what they buy and wear. Roderick and I are committed to

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c o h a bit s e l v e d g e . o r g

66 Animal habits Mark Hearld’s artistic animal sanctuary We visit the Yorkshire home of illustrator Mark Hearld TextbyAliWatkinson,photographsbyJamesMortimer

GLOBAL 60 COVER STORY Norfolk East Anglia has a rich textile history Clare Lewis reveals this county’s manyhighlights.IllustratedbyJennyBarrs

EVENTS 83 Selvedge, in association with the National Trust, brings you this special event, ‘We Love Linen’ at Fenton House, Hampstead, 28th June, 6.30-8.30pm, with Amanda Vickery author and broadcaster. The event will include light refreshments and a glass of wine. Tickets are limited so please book early T: +44 (0)20 8341 9721, www.selvedge.org, see pg 83 for more

WIN The chance to win a two-night stay at the Manor Coach House in Cley, Norfolk (pg 83), one of three Orla Kiely tote bags or one of three Mark Hearld screen-printed cushions (pg 80)

DON’T FORGET... All new subscribers now receive free access to the digital edition of Selvedge. Visit the Selvedge website for more information, www.selvedge.org

INFORM the latest news, reviews and exhibition listings

03 bias /contributors A letter from the editor-in-chief and anecdotes from our contributors 07 correspond Letters and comments from the Selvedge community 09 news Essential textile news: Tracey Emin at Collect, Savile Rogue, Toast, Liberty, William Morris, Merci-Merci, Festival of Britain, Lucienne & Robin Day, Cole & Son, Sanderson, Need to know: William Morris’ Strawberry Thief 80 Subscribe to Selvedge

A set of Mibo paper animals for every new subscriber and renewal, plus win Orla Kiely bags and Mark Hearld cushions 84 listings Exhibitions, fairs, and events. 88 view Yohji Yamamoto at the V&A, Judy Chicago Tapestries: Woven by Audrey Cowan, 19th Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design, Color Moves: Art and Fashion by Sonia Delaunay 83 noticeboard Selvedge’s noticeboard, join us for events and keep up to date with the latest news 93 resources Websites and reading lists for those who want to know more about the Britannia Issue 95 coming next The Coastal Issue: Wonderful, windswept textiles... silk scarves and how to wear them, Victorian bathing suits, the highs and lows of hang-gliding plus fashion on the coasts of France, England and America 96 Greensleeves Fashionable theories on a traditional English ballad

SELVEDGE ('selnid3 ) n. 1. finished di fferently 2. the non-fraying edge of a length of woven fabric. [: from SELF + EDGE]

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