Turkey for Connoisseurs

Contents

Cover Story The Turks of China

A special report by Christian Tyler on life among the Uighurs of Xinjiang,

with photographs by Ashley Gilbertson · 40

Travel

Along the Rocky Road: Fritillaries and other flowers of the high Taurus, by Martyn Rix · 76

Remarkable Lives

The Doorman’s Son Who Saved the Empire: Âli Pasha, Grand Vizier, by David Barchard · 16

The Caliph’s Daughter: A fairy-tale princess, by Omar Khalidi · 34

Books Philippa Scott admires Qatar’s silken treasures · 23

David Barchard welcomes a reprint of the first American travel book on Turkey · 24

Anthony Bryer on the bright young things who discovered Athos · 24

Christopher Trillo on the sublime ritual of the Turkish bath · 26

Charles Perry on the strange Byzantine palate · 28

Music

Ateş Orga reviews new recordings with a Turkish flavour · 29 Playing like the Devil: Christian Tyler meets the passionate pianist Fazıl Say · 89

Wine & Food

Cappadocian Vintage: The revival of an ancient wine tradition, by Kevin Gould · 98

Black Diamonds: Turkey’s bountiful truffles, by Berrin Torolsan · 104 Off the Eaten Track: Charles Perry on the feast of the equinox · 118

Regulars

Connoisseur: Byzantium at the Met, 300 years of fashion in Istanbul,

and the golden Cup of Imbros · 5 Private View by Andrew Finkel · 10 Trade Secrets: The porcelain doctor, by Berrin Torolsan · 92

Village Voices by Azize Ethem · 109

City Life: Restaurants by Andrew Finkel, Hettie Judah on the new wine lists,

and Ateş Orga on the cream of the music festivals · 112

Cover

A young Uighur working in a flour mill in Kashgar, in the Chinese province of Xinjiang, by Ashley Gilbertson – see ‘The Turks of China’, page 40